[This slip should be inserted in the "volume comprising the " Itinerary in Wales" issued in 1906.] CORRIGENDA FOR LELAND'S "ITINERARY IN WALES." Preface, p. v, 11. 23, 24, for "three years . . . Antiquary" read " called himself ' Antiquarius.' " Preface, p. vi, 1. 2, for "Thomas" read "William." Preface, p. vi, 1. 24, for "four" read "three." Preface, p. ix, 1. 30, for "Thomas" read "William." Preface, p. ix, last line, for " Gwynogfryn " read " Gwenog- vren." P. n, note \for "Aber Hodni" read " Aberedw." P. 17, 11. 8, 9, to word " Crumwelle" insert note: " Richard Williams, alias Crumwelle, was nephew to Thomas Cromwell, servant to Henry VIII; and ancestor in the third generation to Oliver Cromwell the Protector (see John Morley's 'Life of Cromwell,' p. i). I owe this identification to the Hon. Miss Bruce, herself of a Glamorganshire family, and claiming connection with the Cromwells." Pp. 42, note b, and 46, note b, delete the notes, read " an island in the Wye estuary." P. 47, note \far " Court " read " Castle." P. in, note *,for "Cantre Celli" read " Cantre-Seli." Index, p. 139, " Aberhodni," delete " Abrehedon n." Index, p. 141, for "Cantercely " read "Cantre-Seli." Index, p. 146, for "Llaugharne" read " Laugharne." Index, p. 146, " Mathern," delete "46." LELAND'S ITINERARY IN ENGLAND AND WALES LONDON : GEORGE BELL AND SONS PORTUGAL ST. LINCOLN'S INN, W.C. CAMBRIDGE : DEIGHTON, BELL & CO. NEW YORK : THE MACMILLAN CO. BOMBAY : A. H. WHEELER & CO. THE ITINERARY OF JOHN LELAND IN OR ABOUT THE YEARS 1535—1543 PARTS I TO III EDITED BY LUCY TOULMIN SMITH V. \ LONDON GEORGE BELL AND SONS 1907 ff v3 H^HHPV^vw SEEN BY PRESERVATION DA 61 o v. CHISWICK PRESS : CHARLES WHITTINGHAM AND CO. TOOKS COURT, CHANCERY LANE, LONDON. INTRODUCTION. A FEW words seem to be necessary in explanation of the present publication, a work which was hardly my own choice. Several years ago Mr. G. L. Gomme pro- jected a new and popular edition of Leland's " Itinerary " in England and Wales, for which I undertook merely to collate the edition printed by Thomas Hearne with the originals, and to give an account of the manuscripts. Mr. Comma's plan was to re-arrange the text, inserting Leland's marginal additions — which Hearne printed just as he found them, imitating the original page — in the relative positions for which they were meant; considerable portions of genea- logical matter and epitaphs were to be struck out; he also intended to identify difficult place-names, and to trace out the " Itinerary " on a map. The work was proceeding slowly, owing to numerous interruptions, one small Part only being in type, when Mr. Gomme's official engagements obliged him to renounce it altogether. My portion being nearly finished, after an interval the publisher requested me to carry out the preparation of the whole edition, to which I reluctantly consented, knowing by this time enough about the work to estimate its difficulties. But it seemed unwise to let the fruit of much long and tedious labour be lost, and encouragement was not wanting for the hope that the present- ment of Leland's famous notes of travel in a simple modern dress, as accurate as the manuscripts would allow, but dis- v vi INTRODUCTION carding the extraneous matter of Hearne's editions, would be welcome to local historians. In doing this I have in the main followed Mr. Gomme's plan, with some modifications and additions, hoping to make Leland's scheme clearer. These principally consist in bringing some portions of the text together, notably in the cases of Cornwall and Wales; the relegation of some genealogical matter to Appendices, and possibly the omission of a few passages in the last volume of the MS. which do not properly belong to the "Itinerary" at all. Where possible the relation between Leland's first notes and his regular narrative is indicated by references and indentation; and each volume is supplied with a table of counties and full indices to persons and places. Annotation in correction of Leland's errors I have not attempted; it was quite beyond my scope, and may be more safely left to the literary or topographical inquirer in each locality. But from the close study of the whole remains, which was necessary before the routes could be traced, several interesting facts and conclusions have been gained. The maps are now made for the first time;1 they are meant as indications of the routes taken, only the principal names being written in to avoid overcrowding. For these I must ac- knowledge the valuable assistance of Miss Nora MacMunn, Demonstrator to the School of Geography in the University of Oxford, who went through the whole of the topography with me — except the part relating to Wales — and made the working drawings. The disjointed state of Leland's work has rendered the mapping peculiarly difficult, it has there- fore been done mainly for those Parts which he left written in narrative form. My thanks are also due to Dr. A. J. Her- bertson, Reader in Geography, for his kind advice and loan of many maps for this purpose. 1 The above was written before I had seen Dr. Slater's sketch-map from Leland accompanying his article on Inclosures in the "Geo- graphical Journal " for January, 1907. INTRODUCTION vii § i . LelancFs Life, Times, and Works. The renaissance of learning and literature which arose in the later years of Henry VII, when the ardour with which the introduction of Greek studies was greeted by English scholars carried them to France and Italy, and in return brought over the great Erasmus, was a movement which, in its gathering strength, powerfully affected men and events in the following reign. Henry VIII, himself a fair scholar in his brilliant youth, delighting in music, able in later days to wield the pen, encouraged learning and progress in many directions. His personality and ability commanded the alle- giance of his people in spite of his faults. The energy which he and his ministers brought to bear upon politics both external and internal, on matters economic, administrative, and ecclesiastical, was responsive to the growing life of the people, and was responded to in turn. It was a time of broadening change, a thirst for knowledge was spreading, the leaven of the Wyclifite reforms was silently working, better education was being provided in school and college, a more modern spirit filled the age. It was the age of the wise Sir Thomas More, Sir Thomas Elyot, and the poets Wyatt and Surrey, men of letters; of Latimer, the bold and witty preacher; of Tyndale, controversialist and translator of the Bible; of the good Bishop Fisher; of Roger Ascham and Sir John Cheke, learned tutors to princes; of Fabian, Ed- ward Hall, arid Polydore Vergil, chroniclers and historians; lastly, to name no more, of the accomplished William Blount, Lord Mountjoy, the friend of Erasmus, "one of the chief revivers of learning in England," and of his son Charles, also a patron of learning. Into these stirring days John Leland was born but a few years before the eighth Henry's accession (1509). The exact year of his birth is not known, it was probably about 1505 or 1506, nor is anything known of his family except viii INTRODUCTION that he had an elder brother, also named John. From one of his own Latin poems we learn that he owed his education at St. Paul's School,1 of which William Lilly was then High- master, and his subsequent studies at Cambridge, to the bounty of one Thomas Myles, evidently a patron of learn- ing also. He became a Fellow and took his B.A. in 1522. Thence he came to Oxford, it is traditionally believed to All Souls, but little is known of what he did there. From Oxford he went to Paris,2 where he studied under Francis Sylvius, and was intimate with some of the learned scholars collected in that city, such as Guil. Bude, the restorer of Greek letters, and founder of the College de France and of the Bibliotheque Royale; Paolo Emilio, an Italian who had settled in France, and having been made " King's orator and chronicler" by Charles VIII in 1489, was slowly work- ing at his "Annals of the French Monarchy"; Jean Ruel, a doctor who forsook medicine for the study and translation of Greek and Latin classics ; and Jacques Fevre, the lawyer, and others. Leland made good use of his opportunities; as a Latin poet he has gained high praise, and he attained pro- ficiency in Greek, besides several modern tongues. It seems probable also that his historical tastes received some impetus while abroad. When he returned to England is not known; he was receiving a small quarterly exhibition from the king at Christmas in 1528. Henry VIII made him Keeper of his 1 In London. Founded by Dean Colet in 1510; Lilly, the first master, died in 1522. 2 Possibly he went as a king's scholar, with an annual stipend, as asserted by Wm. Burton, "Corollariu.m Vitse J. Lelandi," printed by Hearne, " Collectanea," vol. i. Camden refers to the practice of foreign scholarships: "until our time many of the most hopefull youths were chosen out of both the Universities and trained up in strange countries, for the better adorning and inabling of their minds" (Cam- den's " Elizabeth," 1625, book ii, p. 378). INTRODUCTION ix libraries before 1530, says Mr. S. Lee,1 and it may well be that the king was adding to his Palace library in London from some of the monastic houses already suppressed by Wolsey several years before the Acts of Suppression. On 2ist June, 1530, as "John Leylond, clerk," he was pre- sented to the rectory of Pepeling in the marches of Calais, but in two years' time he was scheduled as an absentee.2 "Verses and ditties made at the coronation of Queen Anne " Boleyn, in Latin and English, were devised by John Lelandand Nicholas Udall, 3ist May, 1533. It was in this year 1533 (25 Hen. VIII) that, as Leland himself tells us in his New Year's Letter to Hen. VIII, 1546, the King gave him authority by commission, to search the libraries of monasteries and colleges for the monuments of ancient writers.3 The journeys for this purpose would be costly,4 and there may have been some interest at work to procure him several benefices; on i2th July, 1533 — the last year of the Pope's authority in England — by a papal dispensation Leland was allowed to hold as many as four benefices, the 1 Weever, " Funeral Monuments," 1631, p. 688, gives him this title. Mr. S. Lee's article on Leland in the "Dictionary of National Bio- graphy " gives fuller details than Huddesford's Life, which, however, contains some interesting documents and verses ; Lives of John Leland, Thomas Hearne, and Anthony a Wood, vol. i, Oxford, 1772. 2 "Letters and Papers of Hen. VIII," iv, pt. iii, 6490 (21); v, 1703. 3 See after, p. xxxvii. The commission itself has not been found. Anthony Wood says it was under the "broad seal." Leland signs himself to his own English copy of the Letter of 1546, and elsewhere, simply as " Antiquarius "; whether he had any special title of "king's antiquary " is doubtful ; he does not claim it. Nor does John Bale for him, nor. the intimate friend from whom Bale received Leland's writings, who ends the eulogy of his attainments, " so that he might well call himself Antiqttarius." Bale's Preface to "Leland's New Year's Gift," 1549, sign. Bv. Reprinted in Huddesford's Life, 1772. 4 Leland refers in his letter to the king's bounty and liberality, and Bale remarks that King Henry took " the payment of all his charges.5' See pp. xxxviii, xliii. x INTRODUCTION combined annual value not to exceed 1,000 ducats, under condition that he took sub-deacon's orders within two years, and priest's orders within seven years. The priest's orders must have been taken soon, for on ist January, 1534, among the New Year gifts to the King was one " by Lay- land, priest, two books of stories." He may have begun his rambles about this time, for a letter from Lawson to Crom- well, 5th June, 1534, relates an incident which happened " while walking with Master Leylond in the Cathedral church of York"; but the journeys which he himself refers to during "these six years past," would begin later, though we cannot tie them to the literal period. In 1536 the king (this time) by letters patent, in which he is styled " clerk and chaplain ", granted him leave of absence from Pepeling, and that he might reside where he liked, but must provide a parish priest as substitute. The birth of Edward VI in 1537 was the occasion for another Latin poem for his king. Some years before this time Leland may have made the acquaintance of John Bale, his senior by several years, a poor parish priest of Suffolk, who had renounced his vows and the Roman Catholic religion, but got into trouble with the clergy by his marriage and his preaching. He also was a scholar filled with the enthusiasm of the new learning, though not so accomplished nor so courteous as Leland; a man of great industry, possessed of a bitter pen upon oc- casion, and more robust than his friend, he had the greatest admiration for Leland's aspirations and labours. On 25th January, 1537, Leland confidently wrote to Thomas Crom- well, asking for Bale's release from prison. " Surely," says he, "if the man be not monstrously changed, there is in him learning, judgement, modesty, with many other good qualities."1 In 1536, the year of the Act which dissolved the smaller monasteries, when no doubt Leland had already 1 Ellis's "Original Letters," 3rd Ser., Hi, p. 154; "Letters and Papers of Henry VIII," vol. xii, i, 230. INTRODUCTION xi been eagerly looking into many of their libraries, Bale wrote to him from Ipswich, speaking of the glories and writers of " our England," encouraging his labours and his talents in warm terms, and offering his own assistance where he could.1 Both men were bent upon bringing the old writers and books into the light of day, reading and making known the hidden learning of their own country; and the fragment of a letter of 1 6th July, this same year from Leland to Cromwell (with whom he evidently stood on good terms) shows his anxiety to preserve the books that were fast being scattered and lost through the breaking up of the monasteries. He begs Cromwell to give him assistance in his searches, and in getting them sent to the King's Library, saying that "it would be a great profit to students, and honour to this realm; whereas now the Germans, perceiving our desidious- ness and negligence, do send daily young scholars hither, that spoileth them, and cutteth them out of libraries, return- ing home and putting them abroad as monuments of their own country."2 Both Bale and Leland were strenuous in their patriotic desire to save the old chronicles, "lively acts 1 Huddesford's Life, p. 84; the letter was first printed from a MS. at Cambridge, "Itinerary," 3rd edition, vol. ii, p. 22. 2 Wood's "AthensesOxonienses,"ed. 1721, i, p. 82, 83. This letter is not included among the "Letters and Papers of Hen. VIII" for 1536, though Wood refers to "the Papers of State." Bale, writing in 1549, when the mischief was done, was righteously vehement. " Never had we bene offended for the losse of our lybraryes, beynge so many in nombre, and in so desolate places for the more parte, yf the chiefe monumentes and moste notable workes of our excellent wryters had bene reserved. If there had bene in every shyre of Englande but one solempne lybrary, to the preservacyon of those noble workes, and pre- ferrement of good lernynges in oure posteryte, it had bene yet sumwhat. But to destroye all without consyderacyon, is and wyll be unto Englande for ever, a moste horryble infamy amonge the grave senyours of other nacyons. . . . Yea, what maye brynge our realme to more shame and rebuke than to have it noysed abroade that we are despysers of lernynge?" (Preface to "New Year's Gift," sign. B i, Bii). xii INTRODUCTION of kings " and " noble antiquities," and to multiply them by printing, "so to restore us to suche a truthe in hy stories as we have longe wanted," for, as Bale goes on to say, " the greate want of them hath caused our latter chronicles, specyally Johan Hardynge, Wyllyam Caxton, Robert Fa- biane, and now last of all Polydor Vergyll so depely to erre as they have done in many poyntes." "To sende them fourth abroade amonge men, — for that purpose (I thynke) God hath in thys age geven the noble art of prentynge." l And Leland, in his " New Year's Gift," claimed that part of the books he had found had been printed in Germany, and that some were then (1546) in the presses of Froben, the well-known printer of Basle; though in 1549 Bale says he could not hear of these last.2 From the letter to Henry VIII (shortly entitled " New Year's Gift," by Bale), which is reprinted at the end of this Introduction,3 we learn more of Leland's motives and in- tentions than anywhere else; and the care of Bale, who printed it in 1549 (from a copy supplied by a special friend) with a preface and a running commentary of his own, adds some interesting indications of contemporary value. A friend, quoted by Bale,4 and " familiarly acquainted " with Leland, says, "that he from his youth was so earnestly studious and desirous of our antiquities that always his whole studies were directed to that end," and therefore he had studied British, Saxon, and Welsh. While extolling his genius, the friend feared that he was vainglorious, and lamented his "poetical wit" which he thought had caused his ill-health and frenzy, but knew from what he had seen in Leland's study that he had many works orderly digested, 1 Bale's Commentaries on Leland's "New Year's Gift," sign. Ciii, C iiii. 2 Ib. , sign. Ciiii. It was Jerom Froben, the son and successor of John Froben who died in 1527. 3 See after, p. xxxvii. 4 N. Y. G., Preface, sign. Biii-v. INTRODUCTION xiii ready to bring out according to promise. The passionate love of truth and their country animated all these men; Bale refers to the reputation of Leland again in his play, " Kynge Johan," where he makes Verity say, opposing a sup- posed lie of the Romanist, Polydore Vergil, "Yes! therfore, Leylonde, out of thy slumbre awake, And wytnesse a trewthe for thyne pwne contrayes sake." ' Among the " antiquities " which Leland specially studied were the historians and chroniclers of England, and, as he tells us, when he had read these historiographers he was in- flamed with the desire to see all parts of the realm, and, giving up his occupations, he travelled to and fro over England and Wales for six years.2 In the course of these journeys he made descriptive notes of the places and the nature of the country; obtaining also access to libraries3 and records, he made numerous extracts of historical, local, and genealogical interest as he went along. Many ordered works were intended to grow out of these notes, illness over- took him, and the achievement fell short of the intention, but it left us his famous " Itinerary " which, even unfinished as it is, with all its imperfections, entitles Leland to be called the father of English topography. Such an undertaking as the particular description of England, the features of town and country interspersed with historical notes, was unheard 1 " Kynge Johan," edited for the Camden Society by J. P. Collier, 1838, lines 2163, 2164. The only MS. of this play was found among old corporation papers at Ipswich, with which place Bale had some connection (he wrote thence in 1536); the first edition of his " Illus- trium majoris Britannise Scriptorum" was printed there by John Overton in 1548. The play was probably written during the period of Leland's insanity. 2 See p. xli. 3 A letter remains, permitting him to use the books in the late monastery at Bury St. Edmunds which may help him in " such matiers as he writith for the King's Majeste," written probably about 1540. See Appendix to vol. ii. xiv INTRODUCTION of; it was a thing of magnitude demanding learning, months of laborious travel, and much expense; it was a mark at once of the increasing desire for information and of the growing pride of Englishmen in their country — of what we should now call the " imperial spirit," literally expressed by Leland's words to his sovereign, intending a table map of "your world and impery of England." These words were warmly defended by Bale, for " men should not disdainously scorn that they are yet ignorant of." In 1542 Leland was presented to the rectory of Haseley, in Oxfordshire (his notes on this place occur in the present volume, pp. 113, 114), and in the following year to a prebend in the new King's College, Oxford (afterwards Christ Church), which was later replaced by other emolu- ments. In 1551 he held, besides the rectories of Pepeling and Haseley, a prebend at East Knowle, Wilts, and an annuity of £26 i$s. 4^., and thus had been provided for. At the end of his travels, about 1542 or 1543, he is believed to have settled with his books in London, in the parish of St. Michael le Querne. It may have been about this time that he wrote to his friend, Mr. Bane, student at Louvain, to procure him a " toward young man," learned in Latin and Greek, no doubt to assist him.1 Here, it may be, he wrote out the first three and other narrative Parts of his " Itinerary," as he planned " a description of your realm in writing." Many other brave projects, too great for his strength, were doomed to be cut short; about the spring of I5472 Leland (in Bale's words) "by a most pitifull occasion fell besides his wits." The friend quoted before sent Bale Leland's then printed works, and, lamenting his sudden fall, said he was in such a frenzy that there was little hope of recovery, a foreboding which came true. On 1 See the letter in Appendix to vol. ii. 2 Bale's friend "wrote unto me iii. yeares ago " (Preface to "New Year's Gift," printed 1549, sign. B iii, D vi.). INTRODUCTION xv 2ist March, 1551, he was, with all his property, put into the care of his elder brother, John, and on i8th April, 1552, he died. He was buried in the church of St. Michael le Querne (not far from St. Paul's), which was burned in the Great Fire of 1666; Stow ("Survey," 1603) mentions his monument, but in Weever's time no inscription remained.1 As will be perceived from his friendships and his obliga- tions, Leland was on the side of the Protestants and the Court, though his moderation allowed him to come into social contact with all kinds of men on his journeys. The book " Antiphilarchia," named in the " New Year's Gift/' was written in the defence of the King " agaynst the amby- cyouse empyre of the Romysh byshop," says Bale, opposing the " Hierarchies Ecclesiastics Assertio" (Cologne, 1538), by Albert Pighius, a Roman canon of Utrecht.2 His Latin poems have been alluded to; five of these seem to have been printed in his lifetime, all in London : " Naeniae in mortem Thomse Viati " [Wyatt], 1542; " Genethliacon Eaduerdi Principis Cambriae, libellus ante aliquot annos inchoatus, nunc vero absolutus et editus," 1543;' " Cygnea Cantio," 1545; "Bononia Gallo-mastix in laudem felicissimi victoris Henrici VIII: Carmen elegiac," 1545; "Laudatio Pacis," 1546.* The" Encomia Illustrium Virorum," a 1 This is plain from the end of Weever's article ; after finishing with Leland he goes " forward to what ancient inscriptions I have sometime found in this church" ("Ancient Funeral Monuments," 1631, p. 693). The beginning of his account has been erroneously taken as a laudatory inscription, the first words " here lieth interred " misleading the cursory reader. The Latin verses which Weever had "by tradition," as upon the monument, and quoted by Pits, are at the end of Bale's Life of Leland, in " Scriptorum Illustrium," ed. 1559, fo. 672, introduced by the words " De quo sic scribitur." 2 After, p. xxxix. 3 See before, p. x. 4 All of these were reprinted by Hearne, in vols. ii. and ix of the "Itinerary," second edition, and in vols. v, vi of the "Collectanea," ed. 1715; vol. v includes another of Leland's writings. xvi INTRODUCTION considerable collection of verses, of which a few are of autobiographic interest, was not printed till 1589. It also is given by Hearne, " Collectanea," vol. v. The words of his latest biographer testify to his merits: " His poems are always graceful and imaginative, and exhibit at times, as in his * Cygnea Cantio,' an appreciation of natural scenery which is not apparent in his ' Itinerary.' He wrote in very varied metres, and knew and appreciated the best classical models." l Of two books on King Arthur, one was printed in 1544. Other writings are contained in a list printed by Hearne in '-'Collectanea," vol. i; the leaf was written by Burton in the MS., vol. i, from Bale's "Catalogue of British Writers";2 some of them are lost, one only need detain us. The work, " De viris illustribus, sive De Scriptoribus Britannicis," an account of British writers in four books, chronologically arranged, announced by Leland,3 was left unprinted; "blessed be that man," says Bale, "which shall set that worthy work abroad." Bale himself, the year before, had issued a book of the same kind, " Illustrium majoris Britanniae Scriptorum Summarium " (printed at Ipswich, 4to, 1548), and now, in 1549, had ready another volume — "yet would I have no man to judge my rude labours to Ley land's fine workmanship in any point equal," he modestly remarks.4 Bale re-issued his own quarto at Wesel, on the Rhine, with additions, in 1549, and two folio editions were issued at Basle in 1557 and 1559; there is no doubt that he owed some of his material to Leland. Further, to finish the story of these labours by the friends, John Bale's Autograph Note-book, found among 1 Mr. Sidney Lee in "Dictionary of National Biography." 2 "Scriptorum Illustrium," etc., Basle, 1559, fos. 671, 672. 3 See "New Year's Gift," p. xxxix. It appears to have been first printed by Anthony Hall in 1709, and see further, p. xviii, note 3. 4 Commentary to " New Year's Gift," sign. C viii, D ii. INTRODUCTION xvii the Selden MSS. at Oxford, has been recently edited with infinite care by Dr. R. L. Poole and Miss Mary Bateson.1 The title of "Index "is given to distinguish this from Bale's other published catalogues (as above), and Dr. Poole ex- plains that it differs from those in two respects, viz., it is in alphabetical, not chronological order; and most of the articles are followed by reference to the owner, and source or authority for the information. Among these Leland's name is frequently cited, either for books in his library, for his own writings, or for extracts from them. Of each work Bale gives the title shortly, followed by the indpit in Latin, the first five or six words, whether the work were in Latin or English. This means of identification used by Bale enables us to clear up a mistake made by Weever, who, in reprinting the " New Year's Gift," states that it was written in Latin and translated into English by Bale, and quotes the first words, " Ubi tua celsitudine visum fuerit." No trace of such a Latin version or of Bale's translation is to be found, and it seems plain that Weever must have seen one of Bale's works where Leland's books were described, and have been misled by the Latinised indpit. Had he looked further he would have found that Bale gave the indpit of his own English dedicatory epistle to the " Gift " in Latin, " Inter omnes nationes quas," and further, in citing the first book of the " Itinerary " — assuredly in English — he gives the first words in Latin, "A Granta Girviorum ad Eltislegam" (see below, p. i). After Leland's death his manuscripts and papers were put into the hands of Sir John Cheke, a Cambridge man, and friend of learning, who, however, himself died in 1557. Some of the papers then came to Lord Wm. Paget, and others to William Cecil, Lord Burghley (who married 1 " Index Britanniae Scriptorum, John Bale's Index of British and other Writers," Oxford, 1902, 4°, "Anecdota Oxon.," Mediaeval and Modern Series. b xviii INTRODUCTION Cheke's sister). Four volumes were given by Cheke to Humphrey Purefoy, a cousin of William Burton the Leices- tershire antiquary, to whom Thomas Purefoy, the son, be- queathed them in i6i2.a Other volumes came to W. Burton before this date — one leaf of the " Itinerary " bears his name and the date 1598 — and perhaps after; it is owing to his care that the chief of Leland's MS. remains were de- posited in the Bodleian Library.2 The reputation of Leland's labours and travels raised great hopes, his manuscripts were borrowed and copied either in whole or in part many times, and it is not surprising that they suffered in the process. Bale must have borrowed the " De viris illustrious," in order to make his Epitome 3 of that work. Stow is said to have used some papers for his "Survey of London"; they must have been other notes, for what now exists of the " Itinerary " contains nothing of London itself. Stow, how- ever, fortunately copied nearly all the " Itinerary," possibly for the use of some one else; his copy found its way into Wales, and long remained there.4 All succeeding anti- quaries and lovers of local remains eagerly turned to Leland's sources for information and inspiration. Following Stow came Wm. Harrison, with his " Description of England "; Holinshed, the Chronicler; Camden, with his " Britannia "; Lambard's" Perambulation of Kent"; W. Burton; Michael 1 Burton's " Corollarium," additions to Bale's life of Leland, printed by Huddesford, p. 70, and Hearne in "Collectanea," vol. i. 2 In 1642-3 ;£i was given "to Mr. Burton's sonne when he brought the 2 last parts of Leland's Itinerarie " (Macray's " Annals of the Bodleian Library," p. 76). 3 Bale's manuscript Epitome is in Trinity College, Cambridge, MS. R. 7. 15; see also "Index Brit. Script.," p. 180, and Ver- heiden's "Effigies Theologorum," Hague, 1602, p. 149. Leland's original came into Burton's possession (see after, p. x, note), and is now in the Bodleian Library along with the three volumes of " Col- lectanea." 1 See Preface to "Leland in Wales," p. vi, note, and after, p. xxix. INTRODUCTION xix Drayton, for the "Polyolbion ";' Dugdale, of Warwickshire; Plot, historian of Staffordshire ; Robert Vaughan in Wales, and others, all are his debtors. We come now to the " Itinerary." 2 The blessing of John Bale must have rested upon Thomas Hearne, the pains- taking librarian of Bodley's library, who spent several years in making an exact copy of the manuscript, which he published in nine volumes at Oxford and Eton, 1710-1712 (in an edition of 120 copies). In vol. ix Hearne printed a " Review " containing his corrections, his chief error (per- haps unavoidable) having been to print the eighth MS. volume as a whole, whereas it consists of a number of scattered leaves from six of the other MS. volumes.3 After his death in 1735 a second edition was brought out in 1744 and 1745, for which the original was carefully re- examined; the pages of the eighth volume were printed in their proper places, some portions were added from Stow's copy, and Hearne's own corrections and additional notes were set at the foot of the pages. A third edition was published in 1768-9, apparently little more than a reprint of the second. For the present publication the second edition of Hearne has been used throughout. Hearne also printed the contents of the three folio volumes left by Leland entitled "Collectanea," in 1715, of which a second edition appeared in 1774. These consist of numerous extracts from various authors, histories, annals, public and private papers, and lives of writers; genealogical notes and cata- logues of manuscripts in some libraries, a quantity of miscel- laneous matter. A few portions were so evidently meant for 1 Isaac Disraeli's "Amenities of Literature," 1841, vol. 3, p. 137. 2 Though Leland left no title to his travels, there are one or two places where he uses this term. See Part III, p. 254, "Another Itinerarie of myne," and Part IX, fo. 72, " Remember to ask by the Itinerary how the old townes stood." Bale also applied it to this work. 3 Vols. i, iii, iv, vi, vii, and the lost Part 10. xx INTRODUCTION the " Itinerary " that Hearne printed them as an Appendix to his seventh volume.1 Some leaves which must have dropped out, perhaps when the quires were loose, containing, besides extracts which have little to do with the " Itinerary," notes on Oxford and Cambridge, and two interesting letters concerning Leland, have found their way to Sir Thomas Phillipps' library at Cheltenham.2 Much of Hearne's eighth volume of the " Itinerary," which he printed from Stow's copy (the original being lost), is not Itinerary at all, and resembles the " Collectanea," consisting of lists of bishops, extracts from lives of Saxon and other old worthies, and from chronicles, etc. There is a certain amount of similarity between the looser parts of the " Itinerary " and the " Collectanea," but the main design of the former is travel and detailed description of what the traveller saw, with a few notes of books, history, or families thrown in for illustration. The "Collectanea," on the contrary, are chiefly, if not entirely, the results of much reading and study gathered apart at different places, but largely in the quiet chamber or library. §2. The Manuscripts of the Itinerary. The principal part of what is known to exist of the original MS. of the " Itinerary," written by John Leland's own hand, is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, among the topographical MSS., consisting of eight small quarto volumes in a modern binding (MS. Gen. Top. e 8-15). A small part, as well as his letter to Henry VIII, is found in the third volume of Leland's "Collectanea" (MS. Gen. Top. c 3), one of four folio volumes also written by his own hand. A stray portion from the 1 Part of these belong to Cornwall (see Appendix II at the end of the present volume). Some relate to Kent (see our vol. iv). 2 See p. xxx. INTRODUCTION xxi "Collectanea," is among Sir Thomas Phillipps' MSS. (No. 12111) at Cheltenham. Besides, a copy of a lost leaf of the last-named MS. exists in Add. MS. 5937, fo. 203 ; and a fragment consisting of two leaves which have at some time been taken out of one of Leland's quarto volumes is bound into one of the Cotton MSS., viz., Vesp. F. ix. 30, fo. 223 ; both in the British Museum. The manuscript is certainly how not as Leland left it; three books are lost, "imbesiled and gone" as Burton says ; l the eighth volume is composed of leaves cut or fallen out of various places in five of the other volumes; and portions are wanting in volumes four, five and six. Many parts have been much injured by damp, which caused the leaves to decay in places, especially at the lower margin and corner of some volumes ; in others the wet has run into the body of the leaves : volumes five, seven and eight have suffered in this way. Some little damage of this kind happened even before Stow's time (see note * after, p. 80) ; and William Harrison complained how " moth-eaten, mouldie and rotten are those books of Leland which I have" (quoted by Hearne, " Collectanea," I, p. Ivi.). Hearne infers that the manu- scripts were damp when they came to the library, and several leaves quite out ; though dry when he came to use them, he notes that the leaves of the "Itinerary" were "falling to pieces every day." This was in 1708-1710. Though the manuscript is now contained in eight volumes (bound probably some time after it came to the Bodleian), the numbering of these does not follow any internal con- secutive order, and appears to be only for convenience' sake. It may follow a traditional order. Leland, whose journeys extended over several years (about 1535-1543), appears to have put his notes together, some in narrative form, some of them just as they were jotted down, in "books" or "parts." 1 Hearne noted that * ' a vast deal, and I am afraid much the better part, is now quite lost." — Itin.t vol. v, p. xxv. xxii INTRODUCTION That he did so we learn from the copies subsequently made from his MS., especially from that written by John Stow in 1576, who makes ten clear divisions or " books " of it. But Leland's original nowhere gives any title or numbering of books, nor, indeed, is there any name to his work, or any apparent reason why we should begin with one book more than another. Plainly his malady overtook him before he had finished the work. The only heading that Leland himself gives is one which also gives his own date, at the top of the first leaf of Part 2 — " Quinta die Maii A°. 1542." Leland's hand is rather large and generally quite plain, except where it is crowded. After writing out the bulk of his narrative notes he frequently added others in the margin without always indicating exactly where in the text they should be inserted, but in the majority of cases this is not difficult to find. He left occasionally a blank for the number of miles or the name of a place to be inserted later, or, more rarely, for fuller information. Sometimes he writes a reminder for himself, evidently hoping to add more, such as "Remember to ask Mr. Batchelar," "take better heed," "I have written in a small piece of papire," etc. ; and again his personality comes out occasionally when giving extracts from some roll or manuscript he had seen, where he marks his comments as he goes along by naively writing his name above each, right in the text. (See examples in vol. i., pp. 286, 308, 309, 310.) These remarks are rarely set in the margin. The history of the manuscript will further account for its present imperfect condition. Much sought after and prized for its novel information it passed through many hands after its author's death in 1552, copies were made, and volumes borrowed, maltreated, or lost. Of two copies made in the sixteenth century, one only, that by Stow, still exists, the other, belonging to Mr. James Wright, was burnt with his INTRODUCTION xxiii library in I678.1 In the seventeenth century several tran- scripts more or less complete were made by Burton, Dug- dale, and Thomas Gale, one for Robert Plot, and two or three by anonymous hands, while in the early years of the eighteenth century Browne Willis, and, finally, Thomas Hearne, again copied the work. Leland's work is only preserved to the most complete extent known through the copy made by John Stow, the London antiquary, in and about the year 1576. His copy, thus made only twenty-four years after the author's death, before the original had suffered much injury, is of the greatest importance in restoring Leland's text, filling up lacuna caused by decay, and supplying the whole of three lost books. Five bound volumes transcribed in his small, neat handwriting out of Leland's works exist in the Bodleian Library (Tanner MS. 464, vols. i-v). They have not been numbered ac- cording to their contents; vol. i is a miscellany, partly, if not all, from some volume of the " Collectanea " ; it includes the portion contained in the Phillipps MS. 12111; and vol. iv is a collection of Leland's Latin poetry. Vols. ii, iii, and v contain the " Itinerary," in ten books, viz., three in vol. ii, four in vol. iii, three in vol. v. The first two books in vol. iii were reversed in binding, but Stow's own pagination shows what he intended. At the beginning of each of vols. ii and iii he put an index to places, with this note at the head of that to vol. iii, " Fowre bokes of leylands comentaries writen in this boke by John 1 In Hearne's Diary, under date July 30, 1709, he says: "Mr, Jas. Wright had once a valuable transcript of Mr. Leland's Itinerary, which he has told me was written about the time of Q. Elizabeth £ had no lacunae in it, being taken from the originals before they took wet, as is supposed. But, to his & all curious and learned men's regret, the said transcript was unfortunately burnt (with the rest of his books) in the fire at the Middle Temple in 1678." — Hearne's "Collections," ed, C, E« Doble, vol. ii, p. 227 (Oxford -Historical Society). xxiv INTRODUCTION Stow, I576."1 The other volumes are not dated. The order in which Stow copied the books in no way agrees with that adopted by Hearne in his print, but beyond the date 1542, at the head of vol. iii, there is no guide. The "New Yeare's Gift" letter to Henry VIII is not in Stow's copy. Throughout Stow calls the work " Comentary " or " Co- mentaria Anglia," placing this phrase as a title to most of the "books." In transcribing, he was apt to omit the marginal additions of Leland, or might only copy a part of one ; occasionally even omitted whole sentences, and parts of genealogical extracts, while in other places he would transpose passages, such as the descent of a local family or a list of bridges, out of the original order. He more often than not leaves out Leland's personal notes, beginning " I heard once," " I learned once," and so forth. But beyond these, as far as I have observed, he did not import additions or corrections of his own into the text, copying so closely as sometimes not to insert a word obviously forgotten by Leland, as happened here and there. He wrote, however, with his own spelling, differing from that of Leland, which was much nearer the spelling of our own day than Stow's. When William Burton received the manuscript of the "Itinerary" is not clear, the four volumes left him by Thomas Purefoy in 1612 were the three containing the "Collectanea" and the one "De viris illustribus." 2 It is immaterial, as we know that he did possess at one time or 1 At the head of the first book, fo. I in vol. iii, Stow wrote : " 1542. Comentaria Anglise John Layland, of late writen by John Stowe in anno 1576. Lib. I." He numbered the books afresh within each volume, so that this lib. I would not indicate Leland's beginning ; the date 1542, indeed (found also in the original), showing most probably that this book (Part 2) was compiled near the close of Leland's journeys. 2 See Burton's title-page and "Corollarium," both in his own hand, prefixed to the MS. of " Collectanea," "hsec Collectanea," and again "hrec tantum quatuor volumina." Top. Gen. c I. INTRODUCTION xxv another eight parts or MS. volumes of the " Itinerary," seven of which he eventually gave to the Bodleian Library (one having been lent and lost ; these were irrespective of the fragmentary vol. viii, which is not a " part," and was given in IS;;).1 His signature, undated, is on the flyleaf of each volume iii, vi, and vii. On the flyleaf to the fragmentary volume viii is written "Liber Wiltmi Burton Lindliaci Leicestrensis 1598." And a note immediately above, in Burton's hand, gives reason to think that he must himself have put this volume together out of loose leaves fallen from other parts : " A part of the Itinerarye of John Leland written with his owne hand. 1543. 35 H. 8, as it appeareth by fol. 29 & 37." These references answer to the pagina- tion made after the book was put together. Burton, who was fully alive to their value, made a copy of seven " parts," as he calls them, of the " Itinerary," in an interesting folio of 252 leaves,2 closely written in a crabbed hand and yellowed ink, which has been much injured by mice and is only badly repaired. Fifty-nine of these leaves are rilled with extracts from Leland's " Collectanea." Some years elapsed before this volume, begun in 1628, added to in 1641, was filled. The second flyleaf bears the following note : " The Itinerarye of John Leiland the famous Antiquarie. Begunne before or about an. do. 1538,' an. 30 H. 8. The first part copied out of the originall, 1628, by me William Burton." He begins with Leland's letter to Henry VIII (out of the "Collectanea," vol. iii, p. 281). Five " parts " (including the first) follow consecutively, answering to the parts in Hearne's printed vols. i, ii, iii, vol. iv, part 2, and vol. v (of Leland's MS., vols. i, ii, iii, and v, the part answering to vol. iv, part 2 is now lost). 1 See note, p. xxviii. 2 MS. Gough, Gen. Top. 2, in the Bodleian. Hereafter referred to as Burton a. 3 He was doubtful of the date, having apparently first written 1536. xxvi INTRODUCTION In 1632, as we learn from his letter to Mr. John Rous, Keeper of the University Library, Oxford, Burton had a second copy made by another hand of these same five parts, which he presented to the library l with four of the originals. The fifth, which must have been Hearne's vol. iv, part 2, he says was at the time " in the handes of Doctor Burton Archdeacon of Gloucester, which he received by loane from a friend of mine, but never yet restored." 2 The archdeacon remains in default to this day; the original part has not 1 Bodleian MS. 470. Hereafter referred to as Burton b. 2 The following is the full text of the letter prefixed to MS. Bodl. 470, written on the flyleaf in Burton's own hand : " To the learned & worthilye esteemed Mr. John Rous Mr. of Artes £ Keeper of [the] Vniuersity Library in Oxford. " Though long yet at length you shall receive for your Librarye foure partes of Leyland his Itinerary in the originall written with his owne hand, and the copy of another part the archetypus whereof is mine, but now (as I heare) in the handes of Doctor Burton Archdeacon ot Gloucester, which he received by loane from a freind of mine, but never yet restored, the which I thinke vpon request he will impart vnto you ; which partes being much perished before they happened to me, & thereby very imperfect, so that by an ordinary reader, they cannot so well be vnderstood, by the helpe of his Collectanea I have rectifyed in many places. And according to your desire I have caused them here to be transcribed, written though not with so fine a letter yet with a iudicious hand. Some more partes there were of his Itinerary, but through the negligence of him to whom they were first lent, are imbesiled and gone. For the three partes of his Collectanea and his booke De Scriptoribus Angliae all in folio & written with his owne hand they shall assuredly come to your Library according to my promise made, though I cannot prefixe the definitive time, by reason of the present vse which I nowe have, and hereafter shall have of them. Which true assertion I hope you will approve from him, that to this so rare a treasury will ever be * ' A freind and furtherer " William Burton. " Lindley Leicss. " 1 7 July. 1632." The above is also printed in " Hearne's, Collections," ed. C. E Doble, vol. iii, p. 18 (Oxford Hist. Soc., 1884-88). INTRODUCTION xxvii rejoined its fellows. But it is curiously to be noted, that Burton passes over the part of Leland's original numbered vol. iv, and printed by Hearne as vol. iv, part i, as though unaware of its existence, and this he evidently was at this date, 1632. For his first copy a agrees1 with the second b up to the end of the fifth book ; vol. iv, part i, is wanting in both, so far. In later years, however, he adds it to his private copy a. The five parts above-named occupy fos. 1-156; fos. 157-162, 165 contain portions from the "Col- lectanea," vol. iii (Hearne, vol. vii, appx.) ; after some in- tervening leaves he gives, fos. 224-228, "Another part of John Leyland his Itinerary, copied by me, Wm. Burton of Lindsey, 1641, out of the originall." This answers to Leland's original, vol. vii (Hearne's vol. vii, part i), which bears Burton's autograph. On fos. 241-252 is copied Leland's vol. iv (Hearne, vol. iv, part i), with, however, considerable omissions. He may have had a reason for keeping it till the last, for he heads it, "A part of the Itinerary of John Leyland written 1543, 35 H. 8 (as appeereth in this leefe belowe)," thus dating it from Leland's mention of the Lord Mountjoy "now living," who died in 1544. A part written in 1543 would be near the close of Leland's journeys. He here puts into its right " part " the very leaf referred to in the flyleaf of the volume he had possessed since 1598. Burton did not copy vol. vi entire (Hearne's vol. vi), but we know he had it because leaf 101 bears his signature; and he did in fact copy a few fragments into his MS. a, fos. 162 + , 162^, and 164. Whether he had ever in his possession the two parts answering to Hearne's print vol. vii, part 2 (original lost), and vol. viii, part 2 (original lost), we are not told ; 2 he makes neither copy nor mention of either 1 The agreement extends to details ; it appears probable that b was copied from a, and not direct from the original. 2 As seen above Burton gave four parts to the Bodleian in 1632, to which Hearne adds: "Some time after he sent . . . the four folio xxviii INTRODUCTION of them. (Of the first, six leaves exist, which Burton, him- self unaware of the fact, put with the other loose leaves afterwards bound up as vol. viii of Leland's MS., in which they stand as pp. 1-12, answering to fos. 760-79^ in vol. iii of Stow.) This MS. Burton a was not known to Hearne, who used the MS. b given in 1632 to the Bodleian; a note inside the cover of MS. a informs us that it is " A transcript of Leland's Itinerary from the original MS. by Mr. Burton the Leicestershire antiquary : given to Wm. Stukeley by Thomas Allen esq., Lord of Finchley, June, 1 758." l Hearne died in 1735. Burton took occasional liberties with Leland's manuscript itself, here and there inserting a word or what he thought was an emendation; but in his transcript he allowed him- self greater law, and every now and then inserted a phrase or a sentence, or made an omission, without any sign to show that he was improving on his original. In the letter to Mr. Rous (before, p. xxvi, note\ he says he has " rectified " the four parts by the help of the "Collectanea": these may be his rectifications. Stow's copy seems to have been un- known to him. In the British Museum are two copies of the second half of the seventeenth century, which are linked with Sir William Dugdale. Harl. MS. 6266 is a fine folio volume, dated 1657, being a transcript of nine out of the ten books of the "Itinerary," two of them with a few short passages being vols. of Collectanea^ with some other parts of the Itinerary, which were all put by the rest. This increased the Itinerary to 7 vols. There was an eighth volume in 4to, but it did not come to the library till long after." (It was presented by Charles King, M.A., of Christchurch, in 1677. — Lee in "Diet. Nat. Biog.") Thus Burton had one part which he did not fully copy, which was vol. vi. He gave vols. i, ii, iii, and v in 1632; the three vols. given later must have been vol. vii (Hearne's vol. vii, part i), vol. iv (Hearne's vol. iv, part i), and vol. vi. See before, p. xviii, note 2. 1 It came to the Bodleian with other Gough manuscripts in 1809. INTRODUCTION xxix taken from Stow's copy, then "in ye custody of Mr. Robt. Vaughan of Hengwrt in Merioneth." At the end is an index " compositus per me Willielmum Dugdale, 15 July A°. 1657." The volume is therefore not older than that date; none of it appears to be in Dugdale's hand, but it may have been copied for him. The transcriber had seen Burton's copy £, and probably copied from it vol. iv, part 2, for a note on fo. 115 states, "This 4 volume (now lost) was copied by Mr. Burton " in his copy given to Oxford. The other Harl. MS. 1346 is a copy (by another hand) of the first seven books found in Harl. 6266, with Dugdale's index dated 1657, in the same hand as that MS. Other copies are : i. A series of extracts from seven books, followed by an attempt to draw up a regular itinerary of Leland's journeys with the names of places ; after going through five volumes, the writer notes that "ye thread of these journalles is so interrupted and disperst, that they cannot perfectly be traced," so he takes it up further on ; both these are dated 8 Oct. i659.1 2. A folio volume in Trinity College Library, at Cambridge (MS. O. 5. 25), containing vols. i, ii, and part of vol. iii, transcribed by Thomas Gale the antiquary (died 1702) ; this copy was lent to Hearne, who made use of it in his print, Gale also suggesting occasional emendations. 3 . A thick folio of about the close of the seventeenth century,2 containing Burton's letter to Rous, Leland's letter to Henry VIII, and the same five parts as Burton £, from which it seems to be a copy, including even the title; it bears no date nor transcriber's name, and is written in two hands. 4. Lastly, we have the excellent copy made by Browne Willis,3 when a gentleman commoner at Christchurch, in May, 1704, in the space of nine days; it extends only to the first four volumes, but is accurate 1 Bodleian Library, Ashmole MS. 861, fos. 354-400, 402. 2 Bodl. Lib., MS. Gough, Gen. Top. i. 3 Bodl. Lib., MS. Gen. Top., c. 5. xxx INTRODUCTION and careful, representing the state of the originals in his time. Besides these, in the third volume of what is more strictly called Leland's " Collectanea " l are several passages which evidently belong rather to his journeys, and were printed by Hearne in an appendix to his vol. vii. A description of the parishes of Anglesey,2 and the letter to Henry VIII come from the same volume. Some part of the "Collec- tanea " also, like the " Itinerary," seems to have early become separated from the rest, for among the MSS. of Sir Henry St. George of the Heralds College was one — now belonging to the Phillipps Collection at Cheltenham 3 — which was copied by Sir William Dugdale in 1677^ and again with some variations (it includes a little more and a little less than Dugdale's) was copied for Robert Plot in i682.5 This last copy was printed by Hearne as an appendix to his vol. iv., who found that Stow had copied a part of the same portion in the first volume of his MS.6 A leaf that was loose when the original belonged to Sir H. St. George was copied by him for preservation 7 (it is also included in Dug- dale's copy), and was printed in 1836 in "Collectanea topographica et genealogica," vol. iii, p. 339. When Hearne began to print the " Itinerary " he had not Stow's copy, and only obtained the use of it in time for vol. v ; up till then he relied upon Burton ^, and sometimes Gale, for assistance in difficulties. Vol. iv, part 2, he sup- plied from Burton b. Vol. vii, part 2, and vol. viii, part 2, he supplied from Stow. Hearne was a careful and con- scientious transcriber, making but few errors, though his methods were cumbersome. He took pains to gather in MS. Gen. Top., c. 1-3. See " Leland in Wales," pp. 128-134. MS. Phillipps 12111. 4 Bodl. Lib., MS. Eng. Hist., c. 9. MS. Bodley 353. G Tanner, 464, vol. i., fos. 70-83. Add. MS., Brit. Mus.. 5937, fo. 203. INTRODUCTION xxxi all fragments of Leland's writing that might be considered as belonging to or intended for the " Itinerary," putting them in appendices; but his plan of printing the three lost books as second parts of other books is most confusing. For the present edition Leland's original MS. has been collated throughout, blanks occasioned by decay have been filled up from Stow in numerous cases (indicated by [ ]), and occasional suggestions from Burton's own MS. a, where these seemed useful, have been retained (in italics between [ ]). For Part 5, the original of which is lost, Stow's copy, checked by Burton (a), has been used. Stow here evidently omitted several passages, which are restored from Burton (0), not in italics^ but simply between [ ]. Leland's mar- ginal additions have been incorporated in the text, as evi- dently intended (which Stow did when he copied them at all). In many instances Leland points out by a mark where the addition should be placed. (But mere marginal index words are omitted here.) The decay having extended a little further since Hearne's day, the brackets often include more words than in his edition, particularly near the bottom of leaves. The initial capitals which were but a fashion of Hearne's time, and are not in the original, are omitted; punctuation, which in Leland is irregular, follows modern usage. Dots in a line indicate a blank in the original, or a sentence or words incomplete through decay. A few changes in arrangement may be made, in order to set forth the author's subject more clearly, as, for instance, placing the genealogical extracts in vol. i in an appendix; other extracts are retained in Leland's position, but are printed in different type from the rest of the text. Where the notes which formed the basis of the narrative portions are identi- fied, they are printed in a narrower form on the page, with due references; e.g., see vol. i, p. 182, note. In every case a note will indicate the alteration. The aim is to give as close a representation as possible of Leland's original where xxxii INTRODUCTION this is continuous; and where it is fragmentary to restore it as nearly as may be, following Hearne's lead as far as practicable. The most important change in arrangement now made is to bring together in one volume the portions which relate to Wales out of Leland's parts 4, 5, and 7,1 with two frag- ments from " Collectanea," vol. iii. This forms vol. iii of the present edition. The order in which Hearne printed the Parts, though as it is seen chiefly fortuitous, has been preserved because any other would be nearly the same. The order in which Stow copied them does not give more coherence to the so-called " Itinerary " as a whole, while, if we seek for a chronological guide, Stow dates the first book in his third volume, 1542, copying Leland's own date. This adds little to the solution of the problem. That first book answers to Hearne's vol. ii ; it should be placed lower in the list, but where ? If Burton's date inferred for vol. iv, part i, as 1543 be correct, this too is copied by Stow in his vol. iii, the second book, which may well agree with the previous date ; these two parts then might be placed near the end of the list, but we should be no nearer placing the rest of the eight parts in their chrono- logical order either from Stow's or Hearne's arrangement. § 3. LelancFs method or plan. The " Itinerary " has been so much quoted and referred to, that to call attention to any of its contents might be deemed superfluous. But there are two or three points of view that may be suggested. 1 I regret that I overlooked two short passages which should have been included, viz., pp. 138, 139 of the Appendix to Hearne's vol. vii ("Collectanea," iii, pp. 150, 151), a list of castles on the Wye, and pp. 90, 91 of Hearne's vol. viii (Stow's transcript, vol. ii, fos. 1060- io7<z) relating to Carmarthenshire. They will be found in vol. iv of my edition. INTRODUCTION xxxiii Though it is impossible to make a continuous Itinerary, our maps show, in conjunction with the text, that Leland started from several places, and must have made several separate tours. These are seen the more distinctly in the portions in which his narrative is written out, viz., in Parts i, 2, 3 of vol. i, and in Parts 5, 6, 7 and 10 in suc- ceeding volumes. As in Wales, so in England, he seems to have stayed at certain places for a time, making each a centre for excursions in the neighbourhood. York, Bishop Auckland, Doncaster and Leicester were some of these centres; in the south, Winchester, Exeter, Sherborne, Keynsham and Trowbridge among others. This might be the case where he found opportunity of examining a library or books, no doubt, too, a congenial host would entertain him, and open out his genealogies or private papers. Or he had facilities afforded him by some local magnate, for example, Mr. Brudenell of Dene, Northamptonshire, one of the two sons of Chief Justice Brudenell, whom he mentions several times as showing him rolls. His plan seems to have been to note down his facts on the spot, or from various local enquiries; then later, at leisure, he wrote his narrative direct from them, adding in bits from memory occasionally; he would make a skeleton page of names of towns in a district, evidently intending to fill in particulars and distances, which was not always done. As the original notes, as well as the narrative, are in many cases preserved, this accounts for much repetition and ap- parent confusion ; it is not always possible to trace the con- nection, but the three Parts in vol. I afford a good example of the practice (see p. 182). In the course of his journeys Leland names many men of good family, local gentry of past days and of repute, also landowners and well-known men of his own time. It would be possible with some research to make from his pages a goodly company of the Englishmen of standing in the first xxxiv INTRODUCTION half of the sixteenth century. As a small contribution I mark his contemporaries in the index by adding temp, to each name which the text allowed (though some may be missed). What may be called the social and economic value of Leland's regular notices as he passed through the realm is considerable. Not only the condition of the castles, old and new, and of the market towns and cities, with their principal buildings and churches, and great men's houses are set down; but, living in a country still largely dependent upon agriculture, he is particular to record the kind and pro- portions of champion ground,1 i.e. common arable land, inclosed land, meadows, often of waste, and wood; also the chief forests and parks. Frequent details of parishes and hamlets remind us that the village community was still strong, and the manor and its courts in vital existence. The number and position of bridges, early regarded as necessary erections for public use, are carefully recorded. Rivers and brooks he most perseveringly tries to follow, but here, as well as with regard to actual distances, he is liable to error. But considering his great undertaking, single- handed, as it would seem, the actual physical labour to be gone through when horse-back was the mode of travel, the eagerness to omit nothing that might be useful to his purposes, we might wonder that he did not make more mis- takes of fact or conjecture than he actually did. Details may be and are wrong in philology, family history, or men- suration here and there, but modern science and oppor- tunity may correct these, and still be grateful to their fore- runner in the field. The portrait of Leland, prefixed to this volume, is copied from an engraving by C. Grignion, in Huddesford's " Lives 1 Dr. Gilbert Slater has skilfully made use of Leland's testimony to the state and kinds of inclosure existing over Tudor England in his article before referred to. INTRODUCTION xxxv of Leland, Hearne, and Wood," 1772, and purports to be taken from a bust at All Souls College, Oxford. The bust, however, does not now appear to exist, and all enquiries have failed to elicit what has become of it. There is also a full length figure of Leland in a modern window of the dining hall of Christ's College, Cambridge. OXFORD, March, 1907. I s S> > |5 c II ' - % ' ^ -2 S 11 Jo ^ § .5? rf 2 "TJ "P § O o, || |H-«A + «| S'^d>o|HH-H jT^g <U a | ^^> *C rv -4-1 ^^ ^^ -g ^ CO 13 >o rt fc>JO »— ^ C w - ^ <J r^ 0 fr ,^ 03 Ihi : . : : ti .0 rt <H-I H 5-i CJ o "§* Co 13 f-« 0 "rt )' ' ( Q jjj 1 1^ a £ £ W -M ^ M" u ^ ~ CO • krH X Q <U 03 ll^ 1 CO •g1! *!« : : : : : : : || ^ D 85 g 3 q §1 (U *0 q JM *£ ^ W S c 6 ^ -W a, c 't JH D «J* 10 0) rti • ""rrt CD cd H *u ^ gffi i^S >& : : : : : Hi >° "§5 m £n ^; O ^ CL, n ^3 K*^ XO TABLE O: ks contained ii compared wit BURTON (3), made for him, 1632. 2W/. 470. >;»"* >.ti § **!i! I ::: : : lilill * iti^d « <inli gl - w 1 3 f It'll ">H . VO « « . • • « d *o vo1 'Svo H ^0 [> 0 o « |^c|^ >3 g H ^^5-^ jjjj vS | ^ ^ ^ HH "S >^ w0" ^ 55 ^ 4-> "^^ ^^ ^^ . <n ' N ^ « c5 »^ ci .S^ c* < 11 JW ^t- L HI HI | ^ <S O. CX N & Cii > P< -1 PH r^ *> W 'a ,« j°MS->>>; > > ggg 1 c/i s 'S C* co 6 -o g D O K •* •COlONOvWM ti.NOOM IT) O bio 11- 5? ? ? «S ?? r£?"6 j u q • iS fa s " M S "* 2 * <U 3 ^ 1 O \c5 - H t*^ "^ |aggs>^ s>>S ri 0 ^ '^ ua G 1 i^ i5| ^a p. ^3^'-l| fill H '§* .«* ^ i^^ri>f|^> ^ ~l f HSi -I* O 3 o ^ ^ . ^u > "":^-^ >:lll-i:>:l " -d G IJ !* 0§ 5 ^S?0^-2 Up, • > i rt 'o >% -M -2 J THE Laboriouse Journey and Serche of JOHAN LEYLANDE FOR ENGLANDES ANTIQUITEES, Geven of hym as a Newe Yeares Gyfte to King HENRY the viii. in the xxxvii Yeare of his Raygne. To my Soveraigne Leige King Henry the eighth "HERE as it pleasid yowr Highnes apon very juste considerations to encorage me, by the autorite of yowr moste gratius commission yn the xxv. yere of yowr prosperus regne, to peruse and diligently to serene al the inprindpe. libraries of monasteries and collegies of this yowre noble reaulme, to the intente that the monumentes of auncient 1 This line was written by Burton over Leland's copy. 2 Printed from the MS. copy in Leland's hand at the end of vol. iii. of his Collectanea (Bodleian Top. Gen. c. 3, p. 281), which originally had no heading. Bale furnished the above title when he printed the Letter in 1549. It may be presumed that the document really was what the title asserts, a new year's gift to the King in 1546, such an offering being customary, and Bale having opportunity of knowing the facts. The two copies differ but slightly, chiefly as regards spelling, and the addition of three marginal notes which are here included. The punctua- tion of the present copy is more correct than Bale's. That Leland's own MS. is in English argues against a Latin original. See before, pp. xii, xvii. The supposed first edition of 1546 does not seem to exist. The " New Year's Gift" has been reprinted several times, by Ralph Brook and Weever from Bale, and by Hearne from the MS. in the first volume of the " Itinerary"; more recently by Dr. Copinger. xxxvii xxxviii LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT Ciira reli- gion is in principe. Exemplaria veteruni autoruin conservata. Auctae bibliothecae Palatinae. P. 282. Stilus agreslis velerum scrip- toruni. [Note added by Bale.} Exemplaria prelis com- writers as welle of other nations, as of this yowr owne pro- vince mighte be brought owte of deadely darkenes to lyvely lighte, and to receyve like thankes of the posterite, as they hoped for at such tyme as they emploied their long and greate studies to the publique wealthe ; yea and farthermore that the holy Scripture of God might bothe be sincerely taughte and lernid, al maner of superstition and craftely coloured doctrine of a rowte of the Romaine bishopes totally expellid oute of this your moste catholique reaulme : I think it now no lesse then my very dewty brevely to declare to your Majeste what frute hath spronge of my laborius yourney and costely enterprise, booth rootid apon yowr infinite good- nes and liberalite, qualites righte highly to be estemid yn al princes, and most especially yn yow as naturally yowr owne welle knowen proprietes. Firste I have conservid many good autors, the which other wise had beene like to have perischid to no smaul incom- modite of good letters, of the whiche parte remayne yn the moste magnificent libraries of yowr royal Palacis. Parte also remayne yn my custodye. Wherby I truste right shortely so to describe your moste noble reaulme, and to publische the Majeste and the excellent actes of yowr progenitors (hitherto sore obscurid booth for lak of enprinting of such workes as lay secretely yn corners, and also bycause men of eloquence hath not enterprisid to set them forthe yn a florisching style, yn sum tymes paste not communely usid in England of wryters, otherwise welle lernid, and now yn such estima- tion that except truethe be delicately clothid yn purpure her written verites can scant finde a reader;) that al the worlde shaul evidently perceyve that no particular region may justely be more extollid then yours for trewe nobilite and vertues at al pointes renoumed.1 Farthermore parte of the examplaries curiousely sought by me, and fortunately founde in sundry places of this yowr dominion, hath beene enprinted yn Germany, and now be yn the pressis chiefly of Frobenius that not al only the Germanes, but also the Italians them self, that counte, as the Grekes did ful arrogantely, al other 1 Nobilitie — renoumed. Leland corrected this phrase more than once. His latest suggestion (not fully marked) is, " nobilitie and vertues armed at all pointz with honor." LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT xxxix nations to be barbarus and onletterid saving their owne, shaul have a directe occasion openly of force to say that Britannia primafuit parens, altrix, (addo hoc etiam & jure quodam optimo) conservatrix cum virorum magnorum, turn maxime ingeniorum. And that profite hath rysen by the aforesaide journey in bringging ful many thinges to lighte as concerning the usurpid autorite of the Bishop of Rome and his complices, to the manifeste and violente derogation of kingely dignite, I referre my self moste humbly to your moste prudente, lernid and highe jugement to discerne my diligence in the longe volume wheryn I have made answer for the defence of youre supreme dignite, alonly lening to the stronge pilor of holy Scripture agayne the hole College of the Romanistes, cloking theire crafty assertions and argumentes under the name of one poore Pighius of Ultrajecte in Germayne, and standing to them as to theire only ancre-holde agayne tem- pestes that they know wylle rise if treuth may be by licens lette yn to have a voice in the general concile. Yet here yn onely I have not pitchid the supreme marke of my labor whereonto yowr Grace moste like a princely ] patrone of al good lerning did animate me : but also con- sidering and expendinge with my self how greate a numbre of excellente goodly wyttes and writers, lernid with the beste, as the tymes servid, hath beene yn this your region, not only at suche tymes as the Romayne Emperours had re- course to it, but also yn those dayes that the Saxons pre- vailid of the Britannes, and the Normannes of the Saxons, could not but with a fervente zele and an honeste corage commend them to memory, els alas like to have beene per- petually obscurid, or to have bene lightely remembrid as oncerteine shadowes. Wherfore I, knowing by infinite variete of bookes and assiduus reading of them who hathe beene lernid, and who hath writen from tyme to tyme in this reaulme, have digestid in to foure bookes the names of them with theire lyves and monumentes of lerning, and to them addid this title, " De viris illustribus," following the profit- able exemple of Hieronyme, Gennadie, Cassiodore, Severiane, and Trittemie a late writer: but alway so handeling the 1 Leland first wrote kingely, then corrected it to princely. Brytannia. Antiphi- larchia qua repettitur ambitiosum Ro. Episcopi imperiuDi. P. 283. Affectus aidoris erga pat riant . [Note added by Bale.} Libri quatuor de viris illus- tribus, sive de Scriptoribus Britannicis. xl LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT Principes eruditi. P. 284. Ingenia scrip- forum Bri- tannicorum omni genere eruditionis exercitata. Ingens nu- merus serif - toruni rerum Britanni- carum. matier that I have more exspatiatid yn this campe then they did, as yn a thing that desired to be sumwhat at large, and to have ornature. The firste booke begynning at the Druides is deductid on [to] the tyme of the camming of S. Augustine yn to Engelande. The secunde is from the tyme of Augus- tine on to the advente of the Normans. The thirde from the Normans to the ende of the most honorable reigne of the mightty, famose, and prudent Prince Henry the VII. your Father. The fourth beginnith with the name of your Majeste, whos glorie in lerning is to the worlde so clerely knowen, that though emonge the lyves of other lernid menne I have accurately celebratid the names of Bladudus, Molmutius, Costantinus Magnus, Sigebertus, Alfridus, Alfridus Magnus, ^Ethelstanus and Henry the firste, Kinges and your progenitors; and also Ethelwarde, secunde sunne to Alfride the Create, Hunfride Duke of Glocestre, and Tipetote Erie of Worcester; yet conferrid withe yowr Grace they seme as smaule lighttes (if I may frely say my juge- mente, yowr highe modeste not offendid,) yn respecte of the day-starre. Now farther to insinuate to yowr Grace of what matiers the writers, whose lyves I have congestid ynto foure bokes, hath treatid of, I may right boldely say, that beside the cog- nition of the thre tunges, yn the which parte of them hath excellid, that there is no kinde of liberale science, or any feate concerning lerning, yn the which they have not shewen certeine argumentes of greate felicite of wytte; yea and con- cerning the interpretation of holy Scripture, booth after the auncient forme, and sins yn the scholastical trade, they have reignid * as in a certeine excellency. And as touchinge historical knowlege there hath beene to the numbre of a fulle hunderith, or mo, that from tyme to tyme hath with greate diligence, and no lesse faith, wold to God with like eloquens, perscribid the actes of yowr moste noble predecessors, and the fortunes of this your realme, so incredibly greate, that he that hath not scene and thoroughly redde theyr workes can little pronunce yn this parte. Wherfore after that I had perpendid the honest and 1 Lyved is written above the word reignid, apparently not in Leland's hand. LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT xli profitable studies of these historiographes, I was totally en- flammid with a love to see thoroughly al those partes of this your opulente and ample reaulme, that I had redde of yn the aforesaid writers: yn so muche that al my other occupa- tions intermittid I have so travelid yn yowr dominions booth by the se costes and the midle partes, sparing nother labor nor costes, by the space of these vi. yeres paste, that there is almoste nother cape, nor bay, haven, creke or peere, river or confluence of rivers, breches, waschis, lakes, meres, fenny waters, montaynes, valleis, mores, hethes, forestes, [chases^ wooddes, cities, burges, castelles, principale manor placis, monasteries, and colleges, but I have scene them; and notid yn so doing a hole worlde of thinges very memorable. Thus instructed I truste shortely to see the tyme that like as Carolus Magnus had emonge his treasours thre large and notable tables of sylver richely enamelid, one of the site and description of Constantinople, another of the site and figure of the magnificente cite of Rome, and the thirde of the de- scription of the worlde; so shaul yowr Majestic have this yowr worlde and impery of Englande so sette forthe yn a quadrate table of silver, if God sende me life to accomplische my beginninges, that yowr grace shaul have ready knowlege at the firste sighte of many right delectable, fruteful, and necessary pleasures, by the contemplation thereof, as often as occasion shaul move yow to the sight of it. And be cause that it may be more permanente, and far- ther knowen than to have it engravid in silver or brasse, I entende (by the leave of God) withyn the space of xii. monethes following, such a description to make of your reaulme yn writing, that it shaul be no mastery after for the graver or painter to make a like by a perfecte exemple. Yea and to wade farther yn this matier, wheras now al- moste no man can welle gesse at the shadow of the auncient names of havens, ryvers, promontories, hilles, woddes, cities, tounes, castelles, and variete of kind|Y]edes of people, that Caesar, Livie, Strabo, Diodorus, Fabius Pictor, Pomponius Mela, Plinius, Cornelius Tacitus, Ptolemaeus, Sextus Rufus, Ammianus Marcellinus, Solinus, Antoninus, and diver others Peragratio laboriosa totius p. 285. Descriptio totius Bntan- genti tabula. Liber de typographia Restitnta Cetera locorum Inserted by Burton. xlii LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT p. 286. De Antiqid- tate Bri- tannica^ sive de Civili Historia libri quinquaginta. Libri sex de Insults Bri- tanniae adjacentibus. De nobilitate Britannica libri tres. K. H. 8. descendidfro m Brytane, Saxon, Nor- mane K. Conclusio a delectabili &° utili. l make mention of, I truste so to open this wyndow that the lighte shall be seene so longe, that is to say, by the space of a hole thousand yeres, stoppid up, and the olde glory of your renowmid Britaine to reflorisch thorough the worlde. This doone I have matier at plenty al ready preparid to this purpose, that is to say, to write an history, to the which I entende to adscribe this title, De Antiquitate Britannica, or els Civilis Historia. And this worke I entende to divide yn to so many bookes as there be shires yn England, and sheres and greate dominions yn Wales. So that I esteme that this volume wille enclude a fiftie bookes, wherof eche one severally shaul conteyne the beginninges, encreaces, and memorable actes of the chief tounes and castelles of the province allottid to hit. Then I entende to distribute yn to vj. bokes such matier as I have al ready collectid concerninge the isles adjacent to your noble reaulme and under your subjection. Wherof thre shaul be of these isles, Vecta, Mona and Menauia, sumtyme kyngedoms. And to superadde a worke as an ornament and a right comely garlande to the enterprises afore saide, I have se- lectid stuffe to be distributid into thre bookes, the whiche I purpose thus to entitle, De Nobilitate Britannica. Wherof the first shaul declare the names of kinges, quenes, with theyr childerne, dukes, erles, lordes, capitaines and rulers yn this reaulme to the coming of the Saxons and their con- queste. The secunde shaul be of the Saxons and Danes to the victorie of Kinge William the Greate. The thirde from the Normans to the reigne of yowr moste noble grace, de- scendinge lineally of the Britanne, Saxon and Norman kinges. So that al noble mene shaul clerely perceyve theyr lineal parentele. Now if it shaul be the pleasure of Almightty God that I may live to performe these thinges that be al ready begune and in a greate forwardnes, I truste that this yowr reaulme shaul so welle be knowen, ons payntid with his natives coloures, that the renoume ther of shaul gyve place to the 1 Leland substituted the above marginal note for the following, first written, " Votum honestum ut herba ad maturam perveniat segetem." LELAND'S NEW-YEARS GIFT xliii glory of no other region; and my great labors and costes, preceding from the moste abundant fonteine of yowr infinite P. 287. goodnes towarde me, yowr poore scholar and moste humble servante, shaul be evidentely scene to have not al only pleasid but also profited the studius, gentil, and equale readers. This is the briefe declaration of my laborius yorneye, taken by motion of yowr highenes, so much studiyng at al houres the fruteful prseferremente of good letters and aun- ciente vertues. Christe continue your most royale estate, and the pro- Commum sperite with succession in kingely dignite of your deere and Votum. worthily belovid sunne Prince Eduarde, graunting yow a numbre of princely sunnes by the moste gratius, benigne, and modeste lady your Quene. Joannes Lelandius Antiquarius scripsit. COUNTIES IN THIS VOLUME. Bedfordshire, pp. r, 2, 99-103. • Berkshire, pp. 106, 108-111, 118-122, 125, 126, 306. Buckinghamshire, pp. 105, 106, 108-111. Cambridgeshire, pp. i, 327. 328. Cornwall, pp. 173-212, 315-326. Devonshire, pp. 169-173, 212-244, 298-301. Dorsetshire, pp. 151-155, 244-258, 295, 296, 303-305. Durham, pp. 69-77. Derbyshire, pp. 21, 96. *Gloucestershire, pp. 126-130. Hampshire, pp. 258, 269-285. Hertfordshire, pp. 104, 105. Huntingdonshire, pp. i, 2, 3, 99. Leicestershire, pp. 13-21, 97, 98. Lincolnshire, pp. 23-33, 37> 3$, 99- Middlesex, pp. 106, 107. Northamptonshire, pp. 3-13, 22, 99. Nottinghamshire, pp. 32, 33, 34, 88-90, 93-96, 97. ^Oxfordshire, pp. 112-118, 123-125, 328. Rutland, pp. 22, 23. Somersetshire, pp. 135, 137-151, 155-168, 285-294, 296-298. Wiltshire, pp. 127, 130-135, 136, 258-269. Yorkshire, pp. 34-37, 38-69, 77-88, 90, 91. * See in Vol. Ill (Itinerary in Wales), Gloucestershire, pp. 38-40, 99-102; and Oxfordshire, p. 39. ERRATA. Page 170, note b, read "Taw">r "Yeo." „ 234, 1. 28, read " Patricii "for " Patritii." ,, 240, note, read " Otter "for " Oter." „ 246, note, read "MS. b fo. 138 v°" for "MS. a," and dele the rest of the note. „ 248, note, read " Yeo *? for " Yeovil." „ 304, 1. 3 to 28, marginal note "Wiltshire." THE ITINERARY OF JOHN LEILAND. THAT FAMOUS ANTIQUARY. Begunne about 1538. 30. H. 8.* I.f FROM Cambridge to Eltesle. a village al by champeyne fo. i. counterey 8. miles. At Eltesle was sumtyme a nunnery Cambridge- wher Pandonia the Scottish virgine was buried, and there is a shire, well of her name yn the south side of the quire. I hard that when this nunnery was destroyid a new was made at Hinch- ingbroke by Huntendune. A mile from Eltesle toward S. Neotes is the limes of Cam- bridgshire. From Eltesle to S. Neotes b 4 miles. The elder parte of Hunts, the toune wher the paroche chirche ys kepith the old name of Ainsbyri0 so caullid corruptely for E[nulphesbyri]. [The rivar there harde by the towne stondinge on the este syde of it devidithe Huntyndunshire from Bedfordeshire, and yet a lytle lower bothe the ripes be in Huntendunshir. The bridge at Seint Neotes is of tymbar.] From S. Neotes to Stoughtond village by sum enclosid ground a 3. miles, it is in Huntenduneshir. There hard by the chirch is a pretty house of Olyver Leders, and pratie commodites about it. From Stoughtoun to Meilchbourn6 village a 4. miles be Beds, much pasture, and sum corne ground. Here is a right fair place of square stone, stonding much apon pillerd vaultes of stone, and there be goodly gardeins, orchards, and ponds, and a Parke thereby. The place self is of an auncient build- ing, [but] the lord Westoun of S. [Johnes College in Lojndon the 3 [lorde of that House] afore the iaste Weston made the Haull newly. [* This title and date were written on the margin by William Burton.] [t Leland's MS. vol. i.; Stow's copy, vol. ii., fo. 117-198.] a Eltisley. b S. Neots. c Eynsbury. d Great Staughton. e Melchbourn, Beds. B 2 LELAND'S ITINERARY Beds. [There is buried a knyght of the Ordar of Seint Johnn's in the northe syde of the chapell there. This Milchburne is in Bedfordeshire almoste in the egge of it] fo. 2. About the quarters of Milchbourn, but not hard by it, ryse to armes of brokes of divers Springs, wherof one cummith owt of Higheham Parke. These 2. cum to one botom and streame, and so go by How village,* whereof the broke is caullid How-water. At How hath beene a fair Manor Place, sumtyme longging to the Strikelands of Huntendune-Shire, after to the Bifeldes, and of late it cam ynto partition of 3. doughtters. How Water after cummith to Stoughtoun village, and thens about[e a] mile lower then [S. Neotes in to] Use ryve[r]. Hig[heham Ferrares b market is a 3 myles from Milche- burne. Welington market not far from Avon ryver is a vi myles of. Bedford is a . myles of. Ther is meately plenty of wo ode about Michelburne, and Michelburne is countyd for one of the faireste howses of that shire.] Hunts. From Milchebourn to Kimoltoun c a market towne yn the egge of Huntenduneshire. The toune it self is but bare. The castelle is dowble dikid, and the building of it meately strong ; it longgid to the Mandeviles, Erles of Essax. Then to Bohuns, Erles of Hereford and Essax, and sins to the Strafordes. Syr Richard Wingfeld buildid new fair lodgyns and galeries apon the olde foundations of the castelle. The priory of Chanons not [far o]ut of Kimolton was [as I lear]nid of the foundation of the B]igrames. It [was a house but] of vii Chafnons : and be likelyhode Bygrame gave them no greate lands, for the Parsonage of Kymaltoun beynge above XL. li. a yere was impropriate to the Priorie, whos whole lands was but a c. Marks by the yere.] fo. 3. There lay yn this Priory few men of name buried : but of the Bigrams and the Corners. The name of the Manor Place of the Bigrams bering the name of them yet remainith thereaboute. There is a plotte now clene desolatid not a mile by west a How End. b Higham Ferrars. c Kimbolton. PART I 3 from Kimoltoun,a caullid castel Hylle, wher appere diches Hunts, and tokens of old buildings. From Kimoltoun to Leightoun b on a hille 3. good miles be plain ground of pasture and corne but litle wood yn sight but whereas the villages be sett. The soyle betwixt exceeding [good for corne]. [The Lordeshipe of Laighton village longgithe to a pre- bend in Lincoln. One Carneballe, prebendarye there, dyd builde a peace of a praty house stondinge with in a mote. Smithe, now Incombent, hathe made a Fre Schole there.] From Leighton to Barnewel village c a vi miles by exced- Northants. ing faire corne and pasture ground. At this village remaine yet 4. strong towres parte of Berengarius Moynes castel, after longging to Ramesey Abbay, and now to Monteacute. Withyn the ruines of the castell is now a meane house foi a fermar. From Barnewelle to Oundale d a mile. The towne stondith on the farther ripe as I cam to it. The bridge over Avon is of great arches and * smaul apon Nene R. the causey a xvi. Ther is a little gut or broke cumming as I enterid, on the [lefte] hond into [Avon ryver amonge the arches of the bridge.] The toune hath a very good market and is al buildid of [stone. The paroche church is very fayre. One Robert Viate a marchaunt of the towne there, and Johan his wife made goodly sowth porche of the paroche of S. They made also on the south] side of that chirch yarde a praty fo. 4. almose house of squarid stone. And a goodly large haule over it for the bretherhodde of the chyrch. And at the west end of the chirche yarde they made lodgings for too cantuarie prestes, foundid there by them. The scripture in brasse on the almose house doore berith the date of the yere owr Lord 1485. as I remembre. [* Leland originally wrote the figures 5 before "great " and 2 before "small," but crossed them through, and interlined the words "apon — xvi."] a Kimbolton. b Leighton Bromswold. c Barnwell, Northants. <* Oundle. 4 LELAND'S ITINERARY Northants. At the west north west ende of Oundale chirch yard * is the ferme or personage place impropriatid to Peterborow, it is a 5oli. by yere. Peterborow was Lord also of the town, and now the king hath alottid it onto the Quene's dowre. There I sawe another chirch or chapelle of S. Thomas, now of our Ladie, as I enterid into Oundale toun. The ryver of Avon so windeth aboute Oundale toune that it almost insulatithe it, savyng a litle by west north west. Going oute of the toune ende of Oundale towarde Fodringeye,a I rode [ovar a stone] bridge, [throughe the whiche] Avon [passith ; it is cawllid the Northe Bridge, beinge of a great lengthe, by cawse men may passe when the river overflowith,] the medowes lying' on every side on a great leavel thereaboute. I gessid that there were about a 30 arches of smaule and great that bare up this cawsey. From Oundale to Foderingeye a 2. miles by mervelus fair corne ground and pasture, but litle woodde. The toune self of Foderingeye is but one streat, al of stone building. The glorie of it standith by the paroche chirch of a fair building and collegiatid. King Edward the 4. for the love that he bare to Foder- ingey, had thought to have privelegid it with a market, and with putting doun weres and mills, to have causid that smaul lightters might cum thither. This chirch and place where the college is now was sum- tyme a nunnery. f The nunnes of this house were translatid to De la Pray [by Northampton, [in knowledge whereof the House of Foderingey dyd beare a pension to De la Pray.], Edmunde of Langeley sun to Edward the 3. got a licens as sum saye [to ma]ke a college there ; [but he d]id it not, pre- ventid [by dea]th. [He left two] sunnes Edward [and Richard] . . This fo. 5. Edward began the College and endowid it meately welle. It chauncid that Richard suspectid of treason was put to death at Hamptoun aboute such tyme as King Henry the [* A somewhat later hand here notes in the margin of Stow's copy, "cawlyd the bery-stede ; for that it was a beriege in the tyme of pest." Stow himself notes " Oundall churche was some tyme a cell to Petar- borow."] f Marginal note. a Fotheringay. PART I 5 fiveth went ynto Fraunce. This Richard had a sun that Northants. was father to Edward the 4. Whereapon at such tyme as the bataile of Agincourt shoulde be faughte, Edward desirid of King Henry to have the fore warde of the batel, and had it; where be much hete and thronggid, being a fatte man, he was smoul- derid to death, and afterward brought to Foderingey, and there honorably buried yn the bodie of the quire, apon whose tumbe lyith a flat marbil stone with an image flatt yn brasse. After Edwarde's d[eathe Henry] the 5. con[sideringe his good service] confirmid [the college, and gave] to it cer[tayne landes of priories] of monk[es alienes, amonge the whiche was the Priorie of Newen,a by Leghe market in the borders of Glocestershire]. Then cam after Edward the 4. and sumwhat enving the glorie of Henry the fiveth made the College of his oune fun- dation, and buildid sum part of it as it is now, and causid the body of his father Duke of York to be brought from Pontefract thither, and to be layid on the north side of the highe altare, where also is buried King Edwarde the 4. mother in a vaulte over the which is a pratie chapelle. The faire cloistre of the college was made in King Edwarde the 4. dayes, one Felde beyng Master of the College at that tyme. This Felde sette [the] versis of the [book] caullid sEthi\ppum terras in the glass windowes with figures very featly. Richard Sapcote * knight the settar up of his familie in Huntendune-shire was biried at Foderingey anno dom. 1477.] There be exceeding goodly [medowes] by Foderin- gey. [Foderingey] stondith on the farfther ri]pe of Avon as I enterpd into the] toune. [The bridg to Fotheringey] over Avon [is of tymber.] The castelle of Foderingey is fair and meately strong with fo. 6. doble diches and hath a kepe very auncient and strong. There be very fair lodggyns in the castel. And as I hard Catarine of Spaine did great costes in late tyme of re- fresching of it. [* Stow wrote Papeete in error here.] a Newent. 6 LELAND'S ITINERARY Northants. This castel longid of late tymes to Edmunde of Langeley Edward the 3. sunne and so lineally to the Dukes of York. The limes of Huntendunshir upon Avon ryver. Huntenduneshir cummith on the hither side of Avon to- ward Ailton,a wher Mr. Sapcote dwellith withyn a mile of Foderingey. Kirkham the knight dwellith aboute a mile from Foderin- gey, but is place is sum what distant from Avon. From Foderingey bak by Owndale 4. miles to Lilford village apon [Avon] where Elmes a gentil[man hath] a praty Manor pla[ce.] One told me that there was a stone bridg at Lilford over Avon. Thens to Thorfpe water mill a myle upon Avon where I saw the ruines of the vtter waulle of Waterviles castelle.] Thens a good mile to Thrapeston b village, wher the Lorde Mordant is Lord by copartion with Broune the Seriuent-at- law and Sir Wistan Brounes sunne as I hard. Thens a quarter of a mile to Thrapeston bridg having an 8. arches of stone. Avon rennith under this bridg. From Foderingey to this bridge, I left Avon on the right hand, and after stille on to Northampton on the lefte hand alofe. At the very end of Thrapeston Bridge stand ruines of a very large Heremitage and principally welle buildid but a late discoverid and suppressid : and hard by is the toune of Iselepc on Avon as upon the farther ripe. And about a mile farther but not apon Avon ripe is Draiton d village and castelle, the pratiest place in those quarters, longging, as Iselepe dooth, in copartion onto the [Lor]d Mordant. Staford Erie of Wileshir, uncle to Edward late Duke of Bokingham, had Draiton by an heiregeneral of the younger Grene, and kept his housold yn it. The great Grene gave to his eldest sunne Grenes Northon,6 with a great portion of lands : and he gave Draiton with other lands to his younger sunne. This Drayton Castelle was moste buildid by Grene [that was] so great [a man in] Richard [the seconds] day[es, his a Elton. b Thrapston. c Islip. d Drayton. e Greens Norton. PART I 7 landes came synce to 2. doughtars, and one of those Northants. doughtars partes cam synce on to 3. daughters.] [Thence] six good miles to Finton a bridg [of stone un]der the which Kete[ring water rennyth] having a [praty streame,] and a mile lower aboute the botom by Welingborow Market fo. 7. goith into Avon. And aboute a five miles higher is a bridge of stone apon Avon caullid Higheham-bridge. Higheham- Ferrarsb toune is not far of it, and is a five miles from Welingboro. Welingborow c is a good quik market toune buildid of stone as almost al the tounes be of Northampton-shire, it stondith about a quarter of a mile from Avon river. From Welingburne to Northampton 8. miles al be cham- paine corne and pasture ground, but litle wood or none, even as it is betwixt Oundale and Welingborow. I passid over 2. praty brokes betwixt Welingborow and Northampton descending thorough 2. [val]leis, and so resort- ing ynto [Avon.] Almost in the midle way betwpxt] Weling- borow and Northampton [I lefte] Asscheby d more then a m[ile of on the left hand, wher hath bene a castle] that now is clene downe, and is made but a septum for bestes. The toune of Northampton stondith on the north side of Avon ryver, on the brow of a meane hille, and risith stille Nem R. from the south to the north. Al the old building of the toune was of stone, the new is of tymbre. There be yn the waulle of Northampton 4. gates, namid by este, west, north and south. The Este gate is the fairest of them alle. There is a faire suburbe withoute the South gate : and another, but lesse, withoute the Weste gate, yn the wich is a very pratie house ex lapide polite quadrato, it longith to Mr. . . The castel stondith hard by the West gate, and hath a large kepe. The area of the residew is very large, and bulle- warkes of yerth be made afore the castelle gate. Paroche chirches in Northampton withyn the waulles be 7. fo. 8. wherof the chirch of Al Halowes is principale, stonding yn the harte of the toune, and is large and welle buildid. a Finedon. b Higham Ferrers. c Wellingborough. d Castle Ashby. 8 LELAND'S ITINERARY Northants. There be in the suburbes 2. paroche chirches, wherof I saw one yn the west suburbe as I rode over the west bridge, fairly archid with stone, under the which Avon it self, not yet augmentid with Wedon water, doth ren. Chapelles. There is a chapelle of S. Catarine sette in a cemiterie in the toune, longging to the chirche of Al- Halowes, where that paroch dooth byri. And I saw the ruines of a large chapelle withowte the North gate. S. Andreas, the late [monastery*'] of blake monkes, stoode yn the north parte of the toune, hard by the North gate. Simon Saincteliz the first beyng Erie of Northampton and Huntendune made this house : but he is not buried there ; for he died yn Fraunce, and there buried. But Erie Simon the secunde, and Erie Simon the 3., sunne to the secunde, were booth buried in S. Andreas. There was also buried under a flatte stone in the quier an Archebisshop. There was byried also one Verney, that was made knight at the feeld of Northampton. S. James standith a little distant from the extreme part of the west suburbe. The waulle that cumpasith the hole site of the house is highe, faire, and large, ex lapide quadrato. fo. 9. De la Pray f There was a great bataille faught in Henry the \ j. tyme at Northampton x on the hille withoute the Southe Gate, where is a right goodly crosse, caullid, as I remembre, the Quenes Crosse, and many Walsch men were drounid yn Avon Ryver at this conflict. Many of them that were slayn were buried at de la Pray : and sum at S. John's Hospitale. S. John's Hospitale was originally foundid by one William Saincte Clere,2 Archidiacon of Northampton, and brother to one of the Simons Sainctecleres,3 as sum of Saincte John name them; but as I have redde alway they were caulid Saincteliz,4 and not S. Clere. 1 Northampton feld. [This, and the next three notes were set in the margin by Leland.] 2 Gul. Licius. 3 Simones Licii. 4 Sanctus Licius. Left blank by Leland and Stow, added by Burton.] Leland left a blank of several lines after this word.] PART I 9 This Hospitale stondith within the waulle of the toune, Northants. a litle above the South Gate. There is yn the north side of [the] chirch a high tumbe, wher is [burijed the Lady Margaret. In the south side lyith buried Elis Pouger with a French epfitaph.] S. Thomas Hospitale is with oute the toune, and joinith hard to the West Gate ; it was erectid within lesse then a hunderith yeres paste, and indu'id with sum landes, al by the citisens of Northampton. The Gray-freres House was the beste buildid and largest fo. 10. house of all the places of the freres, and stoode a litle be- yond the chief market place almost by flatte north. The site and ground that it stoode on longid to the cite, wherapon the citizins were taken for founders [therjof. There lay ij. of the Salisbyries buried in this house of Gray Frere. And as I remember it was told me that one of the Salisbyries doughtters was mother to Sir Wylliam Par and his elder brother. The Blake-Freres in the streate where the horse market is kept ons a weke. The White-Freres House stoode a litle above the Gray- Freres. The Augustine-Freres House stoode on the west side of the streate by the Southe Gate, hard agayne S. John's Hospitale. The Langfeldes of Buckinghamshire were taken as original founders of this house, and a late was the olde Langefeld knight of the same line so taken. Divers of the Langfelds were buried in this chirch. I heer of no men els of nobilite there biried. The hedde of Avon Ryver [rise the] a litle above a siden- fo. n. ham * of Gilesborow village,* and cummith by it there first receyving a botom : Gillesborow a vj. miles almost plain north from Northampton : and so touching by a few villages cummith to Northampton. [* The words above a are crossed through in Leland (and therefore not copied by Stow), apparently in error ; as they are needed for the sense they are here restored. Stow makes it " a litle sydon hand."] a Guilsborough. io LELAND'S ITINERARY Northants. The hedde of Wedon Water is, as I could lerne of Wedon men, at Faullesle a yn Mr. Knightele's poles, and yn Badby poles be springges also, that resorte to this streme : and beside there cummith a litle broke into Wedon stream, a very litle beneth Wedon : and as I stoode it cam yn by the farther ripe. Mr. Knightely, a man of great lands, hath his principal house at Faullesle, but it is no very sumptuus thing. Mr. Newenham Knight dwellith a myle of it. Faul- lesle pooles be aboute a myle from Charfton] b wher the hedde of Chare Ryverc is that rennith to Banbyri.d So that ther ys but an hille betwixt [the] heddes of these waters. [Wedon] Water goith from Wedon to Flour,6 a village thereby ; after to Hayford village, 2. miles of, where the chefe house of the Mantelles is ; and thens to S. Thomas Bridge at North- ampton, a 3. miles of, wher it goith ynto Avon. And as Avon Water risith almost by north, so doth Wedon Water ryse by west. Wedon f is a praty thorough fare, sette on a playne ground, and much celebratid by cariars bycause it stondith hard by the famose way, there communely caullid of the people Watheling Strete.g And apon this the tounelet is caullid Wedon on the Streate. The tounlet of it self is very meane and hath no market. And the paroche chirch is as meane. A litle from the south side of the chirch yarde ys a faire chapel dedicate to S. Werburge, that sum tyme was a nunne fo. 12. at Wedon, wher was a monasterie yn Bede's tyme, syns de- stroied by the Danes. But wither there were any monastery at Wedon syns the Conquest, I could not well lerne there. The Vicar tolde me that the lordship of the toune did ons long to Bekharwik, a monasterie yn Normandie : and that after the priores alienes of the French ordre did lese their possessions yn England, King Henry the vj did gyve the lordship of Wedon to Eton College by Wyndesore. There apperith on the south side of S. Werburges chapelle, wher in hominum memoria was an area and fair building about it, and a chapel withyn it : now there is nothing but greate barnes longging to the fermar. Towcester is 7. miles from Wedon, and as much from a Fawsley. b Charwelton. c Cherwell. d Banbury. • Floore. £ Weedon. « Watling Street. PART 1 ii Northampton, al by playne corne ground and pasture. Northants. John Farmar tolde me that there appere certen ruines or diches of a castelle at Towcestre. Enquire farther of thys. From Northampton to Kingesthorpe a a mile, and a litle farther by Multon b Parke enclosid with stone, where is meately plentie of wood, it longgid a late to the Lord Vaulx, now to the Kinge. In it is no building, but a mene lodge. Kingesthorp is a goodly benefice, and yet is but a chapel to S. Peter's of Northampton by the Castelle, the which now is a very poore thing. The Erie of Warwick had 3. lordshipps in Northampton- shir, Hanslap,c Multon, and .... Thens by champayne ground, bering good grasse and corne, a ix. miles to Ketering, a pratie market toune. I rode over a bridge of tymbre or I cam to Ketering d by a quarter of a mile, under this bridge rennith a litle streame cumming almost originally from a village distant aliquot mil- liariis, caullid wherof the water takith name. And a litle beyond I rode over another bridge of tymbre, wher rennith a broke, bering the name of Skerford village, a v. miles of from whens it cummith; and this water rennith fo. 13. under the roote of hilling ground that the toune stondith of. A litle beyond the town of Ketering, as I went toward Gadington, I passid over a broke, that cummith from Ar- dingworth, a vj. miles of; so that bothe sides of the toune of Ketering be welle waterid. The confluence of these 3. brokes is a litle beneth Keter- ing in the medowes. From Ketering to Gadington,6 a pratie uplandisch toune, 2. myles, wher I passid agayne in the midle of the toune over Ardingworth water, that there rennith under a stone bridge. Thens to Welleden/ an uplandisch towne, 4. miles, where the soile is sumwhat furnishid about with wood : and plentie beside of corne and grasse. On the south side of Welleden a litle without it, hard by the highe way, ys a goodly quarre of stone, wher appere great diggyns. a Kings thorpe. b Moulton. o Hanslope. d Kettering. « Geddington. * Weldon. 12 LELAND'S ITINERARY Northants. A litle withoute Welleden I passid over a broket, and thereby I saw a faire chapelle. And thens 2. miles by corne, pasture and wood to Deene.a There was one Yve sumtyme Lorde of Dene aboute the tyme of King John : and he had the landes of a priory sum- tyme there, and celle to Westminister and afore suppressid, of the Abbate of Westminster apon a certen rent. From Dene to Benifeld b 2. long myles. There appere by the west ende of the paroche chirch the dich and mines of an old castelle. Mr. Brudenel told me that he red ons in an old record of the kinges that Bassingburn, or one of a like name ending yn burne, was lord of it. Now it longgith to Souch of Codnor. Braybroke Castelle apon Wiland c water was made and em- batelid by licens that oiae Braybroke, a noble man in those [days] did obteine. it is a . . miles from .... Mr. Griphine is now owner of it, he is a man of faire landes. From Dene to Rokingham d by summe corne and pasture, but more wood grounde, a 3. miles. The castelle of Rokingham standith on the toppe of an hille, right stately, and hath a mighty diche, and bulle warkes agayne withoute the diche. The utter waulles of it yet stond. The kepe is exceding fair and strong, and in the waulles be certein strong tower. The lodgings that were within the area of the castelle be discoverid and faul to fo. 14. ruine. One thing in the waullis of this castelle is much to be notid, that is that they be embatelid on booth the sides. So that if the area of the castelle were won by cumming in at other of the 2. greate gates of the castelle, yet the kepers of the waulles might defende the castelle. I markid that there is a stronge tower in the area of the castell, and from it over the dungeon dike is a draw bridge to the dun- geon toure. There lyith a greate valley under the castelle of Roking- ham, very plentifull of corne and grasse. The Forest of Rokingham after the olde perambulation is aboute a 20. miles yn lenght, and in bredthe 5. or 4. miles in sum places, and in sum lesse. There be dyvers lodges for kepers of the falow dere yn it. a Dene. b Benefield. c Welland. d Rockingham. PART I 13 And withy n the precincte of it is good corne and pasture Northants. and plentie of woodde. The launde of Benifeld with [in] this forest is spatious and [faire] to course yn. This launde [is a 3 miles] from Beni- feld village, and is no parte of it. From Rokingham to Pippewelle a the late abbay about a 3. miles of by wood and pasture. There be faire buildinges at this place. The king huntid at a great park' of his owne caullid . . . . . . it is from Pipewelle a 4. [miles. ] From Dene to Haringworth a 3. miles be corne, grasse and sum wooddy grounde. The Lord Souche hath a right goodly manor place, by the paroche chyrch of this village, buildid castelle like. The first courte wherof is clene doune, saving that a greate peace of the gate house and front of the waulle by it yet stondith. The ynner parte of this place is meately welle maintainid, and hath a diche aboute it. The waulles of this ynner courte be in sum place imbatellid. And withyn this courte is a fair chapelle, in the bodie whereof lyith one of the Souches byried, and a great flat stone over hym. There is a parke by this manor place : and a fair lodge in it. I hard say that this place hath bene long tyme yn the fo. 15. Souches handes, and that they have countid it for one of their chefest howses. From Dene to Stauntonb village, longging to Mr. Brudenel, Leicester 10. miles. shire. In this way I rode by Rokingham, and after over Welande Ry ver, that departith there and much yn other places North- amptonshire from Leircestreshire. The bridge self of Rokingham departith as a limes North- ampton, Leircestershire and Ruthelandshire. The grounde bytwixt Dene and Staunton plentiful of corne, and exceding fair and large medowis on bothe sides of Weland. But from Rokingham to Stanton there was in sight litle wodde, as yn a countery al chaumpain. I rode over a notable broke or 2. bytwixt Weland water and Stanton. The broke that cummith by Stanton risith at & Pipewell. b Stonton Wyvile. H LELAND'S ITINERARY Leicester- From Staunton to Leyrcester & al by chaumpaine grounde shire. an 8. or 9. miles. And as I rode from Staunton I saw a 2. miles of Noseley village, where is a collegiate paroche chirch l of a 3. prestes, 2. clerkes, and 4. choristes. Nosley * longid to the Blaketes; and an heire general of them aboute Edwarde the 3. tyme was married to one Roger Mortevalle that foundid the litle College of Noseley. This Noseley and other landes there- aboute cam onto 2. doughtters of one of the Mortevilles,2 wherof one was maried onto Hughe Hastinges ; 3 the other was a nunne, and alienid much of her parte. After this Noseley by an heire generale cam in mariage to Hasilrig,4 in the which name it dothe yet remayne. The name of Hasilrig cam oute of Scotlande. Skefington b lay upward a mile and more from Noseley, wher rose the name of the Skefingtons. fo. 1 6. In passing betwixt Stanton and Leircester I rode over 2. or 3. brokes. The hole toune of Leircester at this tyme is buildid of tymbre : and so is Lughborow c after the same rate. S. John's Hospital landes for the most part was gyven by Edward the 4. to the College of Newark in Leyrcester. Other Robert Bossue, Erie of Leircester, or Petronilla, a countes of Leircester, was buried in a tumbe ex marmore 1 Noseley College. 2 Mortua vallis. Mortevalle. 3 Hastinges. * Hasilrig. [* Burton has these words instead of lines 5-14 (Nosley— Scotlande) of Leland's text above : * ' Noseley belongid to the family of Mortivall sive de Mortua-valle, the last of which family was Roger de Mortivall, Bishop of Salisbury, sonne and heire of Sr. Anketill de Mortivell, Lord of Noseley ; which Roger dyed 4 E. 3, leaving Joice his sister his heire, who was maried to Robert de Sadington, whose daughter and sole heire Isabell was maried to Sir Rafe Hastinges Kt. who by her had issue Sir Rafe de Hastinges Kt. from whom George Hastinges, now Earle of Huntington, is lineally descended, and Margaret, first maried to Sr. Roger Heron Kt. after to Sr. John Blaket Kt. Sr. Roger Heron had issue by Margaret his wife three daughters and heires, Isabell, Margaret, and Elizabeth. Isabell was maried to Thomas Haselrig of Fawdon in Northumberland, who brought to her husband this manner of Noseley, in which name it doth yet remaine."] » Leicester. b Skeffington. ° Loughborough. PART I 15 calchedonica yn the waul of the south of the high altare of S. Leicester- Marie Abbay of Leyrcester. ehire. The waulles of S. Marie Abbay be 3. quarters of a mile aboute. The Gray^Freres of Leircester stode at the ende of the hospital of Mr. Wigeston. Simon Mountefort, as I lernid, was founder there : and there was byried King Richard 3. and a knight caullid Mutton, sumtyme Mayre of Leyrcester. I saw in the quire of the Blake-Freres the tumbes of And a flat alabaster stone [with] the name of Lady Isabel, wfife] to Sr. John Beauchaump of Ho[lt] And in the north isle I saw the tumbe of another knight without scripture. And in the north crosse isle [a tombe] having the name of Roger Popnter] of Leircester armid. These thinges brevely I markid at Leyrcester. The castelle stonding nere the west bridge is at this tyme a thing of smaul estimation : and there is no apparaunce other of high waulles or dikes. So that I think that the lodginges that now be there were made sins the tyme of the Barons War in Henry the 3. tyme ; and great likelihod there is that the castelle was much defacid in Henry the 2. tyme, when the waulles of Leircester wer defacid. There was afore the Conqueste a collegiate chirch of prebendes intra castrum. The landes wherof gyven by Robert Bossu Erie of Leircestre to the abbay of chanons made by him withoute the walles, a new chirch of the residew of the old prebendes was erectid withoute the castelle, and dedicate to S. Marie, as the olde was. In this chirch of S. Marie extra castrum I saw the tumbe of marble of Thomas Rider, father to Master Richard l of fo, 17. Leircester. This Richard I take to be the same that yn those dayes, as it apperith by his workes, was a greate clerke. Beside this grave I saw few thinges there of any auncient memorie within the chirch. The collegiate chirch of Newarke and the area of it yoinith to another peace of the castelle ground. The college chirch is not very great, but it is exceding fair. There lyith on the north side of the high altare Henry 1 Richardus de Leircestria. 16 LELAND'S ITINERARY Leicester- Erie of Lancaster, withowt a crounet, and 2. men childern shire. under the arche next on to his hedde. On the southe side lyith Henry the first Duke of Lan- caster : and yn the next arch to his hedde lyith a lady, by likelihod his wife. Constance, doughtter to Peter, King of Castelle, and wife to John of Gaunt, liith afore the high altare in a tumbe of marble with an image of [brasse] like a quene on it. There is a tumbe of marble in the body of the quire. They told me that a Countes of Darby lay biried in it, and they make her, I wot not how, wife to John of Gaunt or Henry the 4. Indeade Henry the 4. wille John of Gaunt livid was caullid Erie of Darby. In the Chapelle of S. Mary on the southe side of the quire ly buried to of the Shlrleys, knightes, with their wives ; and one Brokesby an esquier. Under a piller yn a chapelle of the south crosse isle lyith the Lady Hungreford, and Sacheverel her secund husbande. In the southe side of the body of the chirch lyith one of the Bluntes, a knight, with his wife. And on the north side of the chirch ly 3. Wigestons, greate benefactors to the college, one of them was a prebendarie there, and made [the fre] Grammar Schole. fo. 1 8. The cloister on the south weste side of the chirch is large and faire : and the houses in the cumpace of the area of the college for the prebendaries be al very praty. The waulles and gates of the college be stately. The riche Cardinal of Winchester gildid al the floures and knottes in the voulte of the chirch. The large almose house stondith also withyn the quadrante of the area of the college. A litle above the west bridge the Sorea castith oute an arme, and sone after it cummith in again, and makith one streame of Sore. Withyn this isle standith the Blake-Freres very pleasauntly. and hard by the Freres is also a bridge of stone over this arme of Sore. And after the hole water creping aboute half the toune cummith thorough the north bridge of a vij. or viij. arches of [stone.] And there Sore br[eketh into two] armes againe, [wherof the bigger] goith a Soar. PART I 17 [by S. Marie abbay standing] on the farther ripe ; and the Leicester- other, caullid the Bisshoppes Water, bycause the Bisshop of shire. Lincoln's tenentes have privilege on it, and after sone methith with the bigger arme, and so insulatith a right large and plesaunt medow ; wherapon the abbay, as I suppose, in sum writinges is caullid S. Maria de pratis. Over the midle part of this arme of Bisshops Water is a meane stone bridge : and a litle beyond it is another stone bridge, thorough the which passit a litle land broke, cumming from villages not far of, and so rennith into Bisshops Water. And by Bisshops Water is a chapel longging to the Hospital of S. John. At this chapel lyith Mr. Boucher. Sore cumming again shortely to one botom goith a 4. miles of by the ruines of the castel of Mountsorelle.a S. Margaretes is thereby the fairest paroche chirch of Leircester, wher ons was [a] cathedrale chirch, and therby the Bisshop of Lincoln had a palace, whereof a litle yet standith. {John Peny] first Abbate of Leircester, [then Bisshop] of Bangor and Cairluel [is here buried in an] alabaster tumbe. [This Peny made the new bricke worke in Leicester Abbay, and muche of the bricke waulles.l From Leircester to Brodegate^ by ground welle wooddidfo. IQ. 3. miles. At Brodegate is a fair parke and a lodge lately buildid there by the Lorde Thomas Gray, Marquise of Dorsete, father to Henry that is now marquise. There is a fair and plentiful spring of water brought by Master Brok as a man wold juge agayne the hille thoroug the lodge, and thereby it dryvith a mylle. This parke was parte of the olde Erles of Leicester's landes, and sins by heires generates it cam to the Lorde Ferrares of Groby, and so to the Grayes. Groby c 3. miles from Leircester. The parke of Brodegate is a vj. miles cumpace. From Brodegate to Groby a mile and an half much by woddenlande. There remayne few tokens of the olde castelle more then that, yet is the hille that the kepe of the castell stoode on very notable, but ther is now no stone work apon it. And the late Tho[mas Marquise filled] up the diche of [it with earthe, entending] to make an he[rbare a Mount Sorrel. b Bradgate. ° Grooby. C i8 LELAND'S ITINERARY Leicester- there. The oldar] parte of the wo[rke, that now is at] Groby shire. was made [by the Ferrares.] But newer workes and build- inges there were erectid by the Lorde Thomas first Marquise of Dorset : emong the which workes he began and erectid the fundation and waulles of a greate gate house of brike, and a tour, but that was lefte half on finishid of hym, and so it standith yet. This Lorde Thomas erectid also and almoste finishid ij. toures of brike in the fronte of the house, as respondent on eche side to the gate-house. There is a faire large parke by the place a vj. miles in cumpase. There is also a poore village by the place and a litle broke by it. And a quarter of a mile from the place in the botom there is as faire and large a pole as lightely is in Leyrcestreshire. There issuith a broket out of this lake that after cummith by Groby, and [there] dryvith a mylle and after [resort]ith to Sore River. fo. 20. From Brodegate to Lughborowa about a v. miles. First I cam oute of Brodegate Parke into the foreste of Charley,b communely caullid the Wast. This forest is a xx. miles or more in cumpace, having plenty of woode : and the most parte of it at this tyme longgith to the Marquise of Dorsete. The residew to the king and Erie of Huntingdune. In this forest is no . good toune nor scant a village. Asscheby de la Zouche c a market toune, Whitwik d Castel and village, Lughborow Market, Wolvescroft Priorie joynith on the very borders of it. The ruines of Whitewik Castel long now by permutation of landes to the Marquise of Dorsete. Whitewik is a . miles from Leircester by * Riding almost in the entering of this forest I saw 2. or 3. quarres in hilles of slate stone, longging to the Marquise of Dorsete. And riding a litle farther I left the parke of Bewmaner,® closid with stone waulles and a pratie logge yn it, longging a late to Beplemonts.] Thens to Lughborow Parke [a mile] [* Blank in MS.] a Loughborough. b Charnwood. « Ashby-de-la-Zouche. d Whitwick. e Beau Manor. PART I 19 more from Lughborow toune. [This] parke cam to the Leicester- Marquise of Dorsete by exchaunge of landes with the kinge. shire. Thens a litle way of to Burley Parke,a now longging also to the Marquise of Dorsete. Thens scant a mile to Lughborow,6 where I passid over a litle brooke, the principal heddes wherof risith in Lugborow Parke and *...... The toune of Lugborow is yn largeness and good building next to Leyrcester of al the market'te tounes yn the shire, and hath in it a 4. faire strates or mo welle pavid. The paroche chirch is faire. Chapelles or chirchis beside yn the toune be none. At the south est ende of the chirch is a faire house of tymbre, wher ons King Henry the vij. did lye. The great streame of Sore River lay as I stoode on the left hond of the toune within lesse then a quarter of a mile of it, and thereabout went Lughborow Water into Sore. From Leircester to Lutterworth a market toune a x. miles fo. 21. toward Warwikshire. The toune is scant half so bigge as Lughborow, but in it there is an hospital of the fundation of 2. or 3. the Ver- dounes, that were lordes of auncient tyme of the towne. A good parte of the landes of the Verdounes be cum in processe now to the Lorde Marquise of Dorsete, and the college of Asscheley in Warwikeshir, by Nunneiton,c were the late Lorde Thomas Marquise of Dorsete was buried, was of the foundation of [Tho. Lorde Asteley.-\] And al the landes in a maner that the Lorde Marquise of Dorsete hath in that egge of Leircestershir, or Warwikshire, were longging sum- tyme to the Verdounes [and Astleis.Q There risith certeine springes in the hilles a mile from Lutterworth, and so cum- ming to a botom they make a brooke that passith by Lutter- worth and so § Forestes yn Leicestershire. The foreste of Leyrcester yoining hard to the toune : it [* Blank in MS.] [t A marginal correction not in Leland's hand, later than Stow, evidently made by Burton. ] [J Added by Burton in Leland's MS.] [§ Blank in MS.] a Burleigh. b Loughborough. c Nuneaton. 20 LELAND'S ITINERARY Leicester- is a v. miles lenghthe, but of no greate breede : and is re- shire, plenishid with dere. The foreste of Charley a a xx. miles yn cumpace. Parkes yn Leyrcestershire. The parke by S. Mary Abbay. The Frith Park sumtyme a mighty large thyng, now partely deparkid, and partely bering the name of the New Park, welle palid. Bellemontes Lease sumtyme a great park by Leircester, but now convertid to pasture. Barne Parke, and Towley Park, and Bewmanor. Al these be the kinges. The Lorde Marquise of Dorsete hath Groby, Brodegate, Lughborow, and Burley, fair parkes. The Lorde of Huntingdone hath Baggeworth Park,b where fo. 22. appere withyn a diche ruines of a manor place, like castelle building. Kirkeby Parke c a 4. miles from Leircester by Leyrcester Forest. And the Lorde of Huntingdon hath 3. parkes at Asscheby de la Zouch. This Asscheby hath beene in the Hastinges tyme, but sins that the Lorde Hastinges, so great with King Edward the 4. got it partaly by a title, partely by mony paid. The late Thomas Boloyne, Erie of Wileshire, made a title to it by the Lorde of Rocheford, which was heire to this Souche : and by hym the Lorde Rocheford had Fulburne d and other landes yn Cambridgeshire. There is a faire quarre of alabaster stone about a 4. [or 5.] miles from Leircester, and [not] very far from Beaumaner. From Brodegate to Bellegreve e village a 4. miles by woddy and pasture grounde. This village is aboute a mile lower on Sore River then Leircester is ; and I cam over a great stone bridge or I enterid into it. There dwellith a gentilman by the name of Bellegre a man of a 50. li. of possessions by the yere. There is also another mene gentilman of the Bellegreves yn Leircestershire. From Bellegreve to Ingresby f a 4. miles, partely by corne, pasture and woddy ground. This lordship longgid ons to one Algernoune, and after it was gyvin to Leyrcester Abbay. Now it is Brian Caves, that boute it of the king. It stondith very welle, and the grounde aboute it is very riche of pasture. a Charnwood. b Bagworth. c Kirby. d Fulbourne. e Belgrave. * Ingarsby. PART I 21 Thens to Wiscumbe* a 4. miles by corne, pasture and Leicester- wood a 4. miles. Mr. Radeclif buildid here a right goodly shire. house apon Smithe's ground, that now dwellith yn it, and fo. 23. hath married a sister of the Caves. I take this to be one of the fairest housis in Leicestershire, and to the fairest orchardes and gardines of those quarters : but it stondith lowe and wete, and hath a pole afore it, but al the vaine thereabout is goodly pasture. Laundeb Priory is hard there by. The forest of Le * Gentilmen of Leyrcestershir that be there most of repu- tation. Villares [of JSrokesby.^] Digby [of Ttlton.] Brokesby [of Shoulby.] Neville of the Holte. Shirle toward Dunington, a man of very fair landes. Schefington [of Skefington^\ fo. 24. Purefey of Drey ton. % Vincente [of Pekleton.] Turvile J [of Thurlestonl\ Hasilrig \pf Nouseley^\ The mines of the castelle of Hinkeley c now longging to the king, sumtyme to the Erie of Leircester, be a 5. miles from Leyrcester, and in the borders of Leircester Forest; and the boundes of Hinkeley be spatius and famose ther. Dunnington Castelle d is in the border of the forest of Chaney toward Darbyshir ; and hath thereby a park. As I remember it is an 8. miles from Leircester ; it longgid as I hard sumtyme to the Erles Leyrcester §; now it is the kinges. Mielburne Castelle e a 2. miles from Dunington is praty, Derbyshire, and yn meately good reparation. Marke that such parte of Leircestershir as is lying by south and est in champaine, and hath litle wood. And such [* Leland here leaves half a page blank.] [t These seven places inserted from Burton, by Hearne.] [£ The words Purefey of Dreyton, and Turvile, have been inserted in Leland's MS. since Stow copied it.] [§ Lincolne in margin, written by Burton.] a Withcote. b Laund. « Hinckley. d Castle Donington. e Melbourne Castle, 22 LELAND'S ITINERARY parte of Leircestershir as lyith by west and north hath much woodde. fo. 25. From Wiscumbe partely thorough woddy ground of the Rutland- forest of Le[#fo7^,*]a and so in to Ruthelandeshir by woddy shire. first, and then al champain ground, but exceding riche of corne and pasture, to Uppingham a market toune a 4. miles. Uppingham is but one meane streate, and hath but a very meane chirch, yet it is countid the best town of Rutheland- shire. Luddington b is a mile of : and ther is the auncient manor place of the Bisshop of Lincoln. From Uppingham to Haringworth 3. litle miles, al by chaumpaine. About a mile from Haringworth I passid thorough a village c that is in Ruthelandshire. Haringworth is yn Northampton- shir, and standith on Weland Water. The shire of Rutheland lyith in a maner as it were in a roundel, and lyith partely apon Wiland water from Staun- ford d to the [very] bridge of Rokingham. Northants. From Dene to Cliffe-Parke e 3. miles : it is partely waullid with stone and partely palid. From Dene to Coliweston a 5. or 6. miles, partely by champain, partely by woodde ground. Almost yn the middle way I cam by Finshed/ lately a priory of blak chanons, leving it hard by on the right hond; it is a 4. miles from Stanford. Here in the very place wher the priory stoode was yn tymes past a castel caullid Hely, it longgid to the Engaynes : and they dwellid yn it, ontylle such tyme that one of them for lak of childern of his owne began a priory ther, gyving them landes even thereabout : wherby after the castelle was pullid downe to make up the priory, so that now there remaynith almost no token that ever ther was any castel there. Coly Weston g for the most parte is of a new building by the Lady Margaret, mother to Hery the vij. The Lord Cromwel had afore [begunne] a house ther. Bagges of purse[s yet] remayne there yn the [chappel]le and other places. [* Interlined by Burton.] * Leighfield. b Liddington. c Seaton. d Stamford. • King's Cliffe. r Fineshade. 8 Colly Weston. PART I 23 From Coly Weston to Grimesthorpe a about an 8. miles or fo. 26. 9. most by playn ground, good of corne and pasture, but Lincoln- litle wood, saving about toward Vauldey Abbay, and Grimes- shire, thorp self. A good mile after that I cam out of Stanford I passid over a stone bridge under the which ran a praty river. I toke it for Wasch :b and here I markid that cummyng a litle oute of Staunford I enterid ynto a corner of Ruthe- Rutland, landshire, and so went a 3. miles onto such tyme as I cam to a forde, wher ran a bek rysing at a place not far of caullid Haly Welle,c as one there dyd telle me. This bek there devideth Rutheland from Lyncolnshire : and a 2. miles of I saw Castelle Bitham,d wher yet remayne great waulles ofLincoln- buildinge. Litle Bitham e a village ys hard thereby, booth in shire. Lincolnshir as yn the egge of it. The Lord Husey was a late lord of Bitham Castelle. A litle of Bitham risit of certen springes a broket, and about the ford that I spake of afore joynith with the broke that devidith the shires, and not far [of] is Robyn Hudde's Cros, a limes [of the] shires. It apperith by the ruines of Vauldey Abbay f a good half myle a this side Grymesthorp that it hath bene a great thyng. There ys yn the wood by Vauldey Abbay a gret quarrey of a course marble, wherof much belykelihod was occupied yn the abbey. There is a fayre parke betwixt Vauldey and Grimesthorpe. The place of Grimesthorpe was no great thing afore the. new building of the secunde court. Yet was al the old work of stone, and th[e g]ate house was faire and [strong,] and the waulles of ech[e side of] it embatelid. [There is also a] great dich about the house. From Grimesthorp to Corby about a 3. miles by chaum- fo. 27. payne ground, wher dwellith a gentilman of mene landes caullid Armestrong. Thens to Boutheby g a 3. miles, and therabout is meatly store of wodde scaterid. There was one Boutheby of very auncient tyme, the heyre generale of whom was marryed to Paynelle, and therby rose much the Painelles. a Grimsthorpe. b Wash. ° Holywell. d Castle Bytham. e Little Bytham. * Vaudey Abbey. « Boothby Tagnal. 24 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln- The chief house of the Paynelles had ons a 900. markes shire. of landes by the yere : and it was welle conservid on tille about the tyme of Henry the 5. Then John Paynelle the farther and John his sunne, booth knighttes and great lechers, began to decline ; for John the father began to selle, and John the sunne begot abhominably a doughter of his owne doughter : and John the father apon this sold al the lande, parte owt of hand and parte in reversion ; and John the sunne dyid afore the father, and yong John'fs daughter] fled to other partes of Enfgland for shajme, and at the last maried one Dines, a wever, by whom she had childern : and after a 3. descentes the landes of the Dines cam by an heire generale to one Bosson a knight, and his landes be also now cum to v. sisters heires generales, wherof one is wife to Richard Paynelle, now owner of Boutheby. Bosson was a man borne in Notinghamshir, and had part of his landes lying not far from Newark on Trent, and part lying in Yorkshir. Olde Sir John Paynelle had a secunde sunne caullid Geffrey, the was servant to the Quene of England, and yn good estima- tion. Wherapon thinkking his brother doughter dede, he made so importune sute, that at the laste he founde meanes by the king, that the Duk of Bedford was content that Geffrey should by of hym al such landes as Sir John Paynelle the father had sold onto hym, the which was the beste peace of the lande. But aboute the tyme that Geffrey had payid for the lande cam Dyne's wife, doughter to yong Sir John Panelle, and by a color got possession of Baroby a a manor of a 80. poundes by the yere, a mile from Grantham ; and so made clayme to the residew : so that at the laste composition was made, that she should have of the landes that the Duke of Bedeford had fo. 28. the lordship of Baroby and Dunington : and the residew to remayne to Geffrey Paynelle, the whiche was great graunt- father to Paynell now dwelling at Boutheby. Thimleby had by purches the lordship of Irenham * b of the old Sir John Paynelle, wher Thimleby now lyving hath build a fair place. [* Leland was doubtful of this word, after filling it in he put dots for erasure under " en." Stow therefore copied it Irham.} a Barrowby. b Irnham. PART I 25 Though the Paynelles were lordes of the castelle of Lincoln- Newport Painel a in Buckinghamshire, yet they had a great shire, mynde to ly at Boutheby : wher they had a praty stone house withyn a mote. The Paynelles were founders of an abbay in Fraunce caullid Marteres. One Sir Rafe Painelle was as I hard vice-chamberlaine to king and constable of Bolingbrok Castelle. Olde Sir John Painell the father lyith buried on the north side of the high altare at Bouthby^ he died anno D. 1420. Elisabeth his wife liith in the north isle of the same chirch. One Sir Walter Painelle lyith buried in the paroch chirch of Geffrey Paynelle was father to Panelle, custumer of Boston, and he had a lordship of 4oli. of the old landes of the Paynelles. Pan[elle was fjather to Richard Paynelle [now dwelling at Bouthby.] One Bawdey a gentilman of mene landes dwellith at \_Somerby] a mile from Boutheby. Burne Market b is a 3. or 4. miles from Grymesthorpe. There appere grete diches, and the dungeon hil of an auncient castel agayne the west ende of the priori, sumwhat distant from it as on the other side of the streate bakwarde : it longgid to the Lorde Wake, and much service of the Wake fe is done to this castelle; and every feodarie knowith his station and place of service. I remembre that I red ons yn an historic of the castel of Burne : and I have redde that S. Edmund, king of the Este Angles, was crounid at Burne ; but I cannot telle wither it were thys Burne. From Grimesthorpe to Sempringham a v. miles, and a mile thens sumwhat inwarde on the lifte hond is the castelle of Fokingham,c sumtyme the Lorde Bardolphe's, syns the Lord Bellemonte's, now longging to the Duke of Northfolk; it hath bene a goodly house, but [now i]t fallith al to ruine. and it stondith even about the egge of the fennes. fo. 29. From Boutheby to Hayderd al by champaine ground, fertile of corne and grasse, 4. miles. One Bussey, cumming of a a Newport Pagnel. b Bourn. c Folkingham. d Haydor. 26 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln- younger brother of the house of Busseys of Houg[h]eham, shire. dwellith in an old place at Haider, that he and his parentes hath in a fee ferine of the chirch of Lincoln. From Hayder to Sleforda a vj. miles, al by champaine grounde. Aboute a mile from Hayder I saw the mines of Cattely Priory, now longging to one Car of Sleford, a proper gentilman, whos father was a riche marchaunt of the staple. The towne of Sleford is buildid for the most part al of stone, as most part of al the townes of Kesteven be : for the soile is plentiful of stone. The chirch of Sleford is large. And for houses in the toune I markid but 2. very fair. The one longith to the personage, as a prebend of 16. li [yn] Lincoln, and standith at the [est endel of the chirch, and Carre House stonding [at the soujth side [of it.] Gentilmen of Kesteven. Bussy of Hougheham. Bussy of Haider. Thimleby knight at Irneham. Disney, alias de Iseney : he dwellith at Diseney ; and of his name and line be gentilmen yn Fraunce. Ailesham Priory by Thorney Courtoise was of the Disseneys funda- tion : and there were dyvers of them buried, and likewise at Diseney. Northton Diseney b is a 6. miles south west from Lincoln. Paynelle at Boutheby. Armine at Ergerby. Leghe dwelling at Ingoldesby is now a man of meane landes. his aunceter were men of fair landes. Haulle. Granteham a man of mene landes by Hayder. Cony a stapeler risen by marchaundise \atJBasmgthorpeJ] Vernoun toward Granteham. Porter about Granteham. Baudey a mile from Boutheby. Elis greatly risen bi marchaundise. Holland at Howelle. fo. 30. Withoute the towne of Sleford standith west south west the propre castell of Sleford, very welle maintaynid : and it a Sleaford. b Norton Disney. PART I 27 is cumpasid with a renning streme dimming by a cut oute Lincoln- of a litle fenne lying almost flatte weste againe it. shire. The gate house of the castelle 2. porte colices. There is an highe toure in the midle of the castelle, but not sette apon [any] hille of reisid yerth. The vaultes of the castelle by the ground be fair. The house or manor place, lately almost new buildid of stone and timbre by the Lorde Husey, standith southeward withoute the toun. The chief spring of Sleford Water risith a litle from Roseby village a about a mile by west from Sleforde. From Sleforde to Ancaster a 4. miles by chaumpaine. Aboute a mile from Ancaster I passid over Wilesfordb brok. Ancaster stondith on Wateling as in the high way to Lincoln ; it is now but a very pore strete, having a smaule chirch. An old man told me that it was sumtyme caullid Oncaster or Onkaster : but he shewid me no reason why.1 But in tymes past it hath bene a celebrate toune, but not waullid as far as I could perceive. The building of it lay in lenghth by south and north. In south ende of it be often tymes founde in ploughing great square stones of old build- inges and Romaine coynes of brasse and sylver. In the west ende of it, were now medowes be, ar founde yn diching great vaultes. The area wher the castelle stoode is large, and the dikes of it appere, and in sum places the foundation of the waulle. In the highest ground of the area is now an old chapel dedicate to S. Marie, and there is an her[em]ite. [This] area is right again the [east en]de of the paroche chirch. The tounelet of Ancaster is devidid into 2. lordeshipes. fo. 31* The est side of it, at the southe ende whereof the castel is sette, is of the lordship of Wilesforde, sumtime longging to the Lord Crumwelle, and after, as I hard, solde with other thinges to the performaunce of one of the Lord Cromwelles willes; and after Burne Priory yn Kestenec had it by the meane as I hard of Margarete, mother to Henry the 7. The Duke of Southfolk hath it now. 1 These words in the margin of the original, but omitted in Burton. a Rauceby. b Wilsford. ° Kesteven. 28 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln- He that tolde me this saide that Foderingey was ons the shire. Lord Cromwelle : but I dowte of that. The west side of the towne, where the paroch \chircK\ * stondith, was the Vescys, and the patronage of the chirch, with impropriation, was gyven by one of the Vescys to the priory of Malton in Ridesdale. The Vescies were lordes of a castelle caullid Cadorpe a in Kesten a 3. miles toward north from Ancaster ; syns it cam to the Lord Bellemonte : and [now] the Duke of Northfok h[ath it.] The Duke of [Norfolk] hath by gifte a 600. mark land [of Bellemontes in] Lincolnshir. The he the of Ancaster conteynith in lenghth about a 14. miles, and in bredth a ... and cummith withyn a 2. miles of the fennes. The toune of Ancaster hath on eche side of it a spring, and they cumming .to one botom anone after ren ynto Willes- ford streame, and so, as I remember, the broke goith thens to Ureby. An old man of Ancaster told me that by Ureby, or Roseby,b a plough man toke up a stone, and found another stone under it, wherein was a square hole having Romaine quoin in it. He told me also that a plough man toke up in the feldes of Harlestonc a 2. miles from Granteham a stone, under the wich was a potte of brasse, and an helmet of gold, sette [with st]ones in it, the which was [pre]sentid to Catarine Princes [Dowag]er. There? were bedes of [silver in] the potte : and writings corruptid. £0.32. From Ancaster to Temple Bruern al by champaine of Ancaster Heth a 4. miles. There be great and vaste build- inges but rude at this place, and the este ende of the temple is made opere drculari de more. The hethe about it is very good for shepe, as al Ancaster Hethe is. From Temple Bruern to Lincoln 10. miles by champaine. The Fosse diche begynnith a quarter of a mile above Lincoln, and so goith to Torkesey d side a 7. miles strait in lenght. [* Interlined by Burton.] Caythorpe. b Rauceby. c Harlaxton. d Torksey. PART I 29 Bisshop Atwater began to dense Foss Dik, and brought to Lincoln- the midle the clensing of it from Torkesey side, in hope to shire, bring vesselles to Lincoln : sed statim moriente illo opus omnino neglectum. Grantham an 18. miles from Lindecoln. Lindisa from thens as from west south west tendith, saving that it windith into crokes estward ontil it cum to the se. The curse of Lindis Ryver from Lincoln to Boston a 50. miles be water as the crekes go, and 24. miles from Lincoln to Boston to take way by fery. Ther be no bridges on Lindis Ryver from Lincoln to Boston, but Thorn Brid a litle beneth High Bridge. High Bridge hath but one great arch, and over a pece of it is a chapelle of S. George. There be 4. commune places namid as ferys apon the water of Lindis betwixt Lincoln and Boston : the which feris leade to divers places. To Short fery 5. miles. To Tatershaul b fefry viij.l miles. To Dogdik c fery [a mile.] To Lanfgreth d fery five miles.] To Bfoston 5. miles.] The circuite of Lincoln cite is with yn the waulles by estimation a Gates in the waulles of the citie of Lincoln. Barre gate at the south ende of the toune. Baile gate by south a litle a this side the minstre. Newport gate flat north. Est gate and West gate toward the castel. It is very likely that in old tyme the toppe of the hille only was waullid and inhabitid. The ryver of Lincoln breking into 2. armes a very litle above the toun passith thoroug the lower part of Lincoln toune yn 2. severalle partes of the south ende of the toune very commodiusly, and over eche of them is an archid bridge of stone to passe thoroug the principal streate. The lesser arme lyith more southly, and the bridg over it is of one arche. The bigger armes fert cymbas piscatorias. * Witham R. b Tattershall. ° Dogdyke. d Langrick. 30 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln- Gote bride to passe over the lesser arme. Highe bridge to shire, passe over the great arme. A very goodly house longging to Sutton is hard on the north syde of S. Annes chirch yarde. A litle above Gote bridge, on the este side of the high streat, is a fair guild haul, longging to S. Annes chirch e regione, of the fundation of Bitlyndon and Sutton, marchants. 1 hard say that the lower parte of Lincoln town was al marisch, and won be policy, and inhabitid for the commodite of the water. This part of the toune is caullid Wikerford : and yn it be a ii. pavoche chirches, one there I saw in clene ruine, [be] side the other xi. [sic.] The White Freres were on the west side of the high streate [in] Wikerf[ord.] fo. 33. There be in the residew of the toun, as in the north parte apon the hille, xiij. paroche chirchis yet usid. I saw a rolle wherin I countid that ther were xxxviij. paroche chirchis yn Lincoln. There goith a commune fame that there were ons 52. paroche chirches yn Lincoln cite, and the suburbes of it. Sum hold opinion that est of Lincoln were 2. suburbes, one toward S. Beges, a late a celle to S. Mari Abbay at York : the which place I take be Icanno, wher was an house of monkes yn S. Botolphes tyme, and of this spekith Bede ; it is scant half a mile from the minster. The other by est streachid up toward Canwike villag a half a mile of from Lincolne. Ther was also a suburbe beyonde the north gate, and streachid toward Burton village, or more westwarde. King Stephane, as it is saide, destroied much of this suburbe. There lay a suburbe also without the Barre gate, by southe of the toune, and streachid toward a village caullid Brase- bridg,b [a litle] without Barre is a very fair [crosse] and large, and S. Catarines st[andeth in] this suburbe on the soufth west] side of [Barre gate.] It is easy to be perceivid that the toune of Lincoln hath be notably buildid at 3. tymes. The first building was yn the very toppe of the hille, the oldest part wherof inhabited a Canwick. b Bracebridge. PART I 31 in the Britans tyme, was the northethest part of the hille, Lincoln- directely withoute Newport gate, the diches wherof yet re- shire, mayne and great tokens of the old towne waulles buildid with stone taken oute of [the] diche by it : for al the top of Lincoln Hille is quarre ground. This is now a suburbe to Newporte gate : in the which now is no notable thing but the ruines of the house of the Augustine Freres on the south side, and a paroch chirch of the est side : and not far from the chirch garth apperith a great ruine of a toure in the old towne waulle. Sum say that this old Lincoln was destroied by King Stephan, but I thinke rather by the Danes. Much Romaine mony is found yn the northe [fieldes] beyond this old Lincoln. After the destruction of this old Lincoln men fo, 34. began to fortifie the souther parte of the hille, new diching, waulling and gating it, and so was new Lincoln made out of a pece of old Lincoln by the Saxons. The third building of later tymes was in Wikerford, for commodite of water : and this parte is enwallid wher it is not defendid with the ryver and marisch ground. The ryver of Lindis fleatith a litle above Lincoln towne, and makith certen pooles wherof one is caullid Swanne Poole. The[r] springith a water above Chorleton village a a 2. miles or more by north from Lincoln, and this cummith in by the higher ripe of Lincoln Ryver a litle above the toune. So that by this broke, Fosse Dike water, and the ryver of Lincoln it is no mervaile though the water be sumtyme broode there, and over flow the medois al [about.] Gualterus, as I hard, caullid Dorotheus, Dene of Lincoln, a Scottisch man, first founder of the White Freres in Lincoln. There lay in a chapelle at the White Freres a rich marchant caullid Ranulphus de Kyme, whos image was thens taken and set at the south ende of the new castelle of the conducte of water in Wikerford. There is another new castelle of conduct hedde trans Lindimflu : and booth these be servid by pipes derivid from one of the houses of freres, that were in the upper part of Lincoln. Reginaldus Molendinarius, marchaunt of Lincoln, founder a Carlton. 32 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln, of the Gray Freres. Henry Lacy, Erie of Lincoln, and one shire. Nunny, his almoner, were great benefactors to it. Henry Lacy and Nunny were great benefactors to the Gray Freres at York. Nunny was buried at the Gray Freres in York, fo. 35. From Lincoln to Torkesey a parte by march ground, and part by other, but very litle wood, a 7. miles. The olde buildinges of Torkesey wer on the south of the new toune, but there now is litle scene of olde buildinges, more then a chapelle, wher men say was the paroch chirch of old Torkesey, and on Trent side the yerth so balkith up that it shewith that there be likelihod hath beene sum waulle, and by it is a hille of yerth cast up : they caulle it the Wynde Mille Hille, but I thinke the dungeon of sum olde castelle was there. By olde Torkesey standith southely the ruines of Fosse Nunnery, hard by the stone bridge over Fosse Dik ; and there Fosse Dike hath his entering ynto Trente. There be 2. smaul paroche chirches in new Torkesey, and the Priory of S. Leon[ard stanjdith on theste side of it. The ripe [that Torkesey stanjdith on is sumwfhat higher ground] than is by the [west ripe of Trent.] Trent there devidith and a good deale upward Lincolnshire from Notinghamshire. Notts. John Babington dwellith at Raunton village b over Trent a good mile from Torkesey. Lines. From Torkesey to Marton village about a mile by plain sandy ground. At the north ende of this village lyithe the commune way of Watheling Streat to Dancaster, and thereby onto the other side of Trent is trajectus to Litleborough village,0 wherby it is communely caullid Litleborough fery. a mile above that northward is Stratton on the Streate,d a good through fare toward Dancaster that is a 14. or 15. miles of of it. From Marton to Snafee on Trent, wher the late Lorde Darcy [had a] mene manor place [a 2. miles.] [Thence to] Gainesford f on Trent [a 2. miles.] fo. 36. The shore and upground from Trent ripe on Lincolnshire a Torksey. b Rampton. c Littleborough. d Stufton. e Knaith. f Gainsborough. PART I 33 side to Gainesborough is al sandy : the ripe of Trent againe Lincoln- it is low and medow ground. shire. Gainesborow is a good market toune, and is a xij. miles from Lincoln. I saw no thinges much to be markid yn it, but the paroche chirch, wher lyith richely buryed Sir Thomas Borow, Knight of the Gartner, and Dna de Botreaux, his wife : obiit Thomas an. D. 1408. This Thomas was graundfader to the Lord Borow, that now is. He made most of the motid manor place by the west ende of the chirch yarde. This Lord Borow's father lyith yn the quiar. There lyith yn the same chirch Ds. Edmundus Cornewaile, that had a great motid manor place, caullid Thonak, in a wood, a mile by est from Gaynesborow. it longith it to the Cornewailes. Obiit anno D. 1322. Edmund foundid 3. cantuaries yn Gainesborow chirch. There is an old chapelle of stone yn the south part of Gainesborow toun, wher they of the toune say that many Danes be buried. There is also a chapelle of wood on Trent side by southe in Gainesborow : it is now desolatid. There is a parke by Gainesborow longging to the Lord Borow. There is another a ... miles of that Mr. Henege hath in keping. From Gainesborow over Trent ynto Notinghamshire, and so to Madersey village a a v. miles, 2. miles below medowes Notts, and 3. be corn and pasture ground. Or I cam to Madersey by a 2. miles I left Parke on the right hond, and a mile farther I saw the course on the lifte hond of ryver, over the which I passid by a bridge of hard * at the entering into Madersey village. Thens I roode a myle yn low wasch and sumwhat fenny ground, and a mile farther or more by higher ground to Scroby in Nottinghamshir. [* No blank here in original, but the word stone, or tymber> seems to be omitted after hard.} Mattersey. D 34 LELAND'S ITINERARY fo. 37. In the mene tounelet of Scroby a I markid 2. thinges, the Notts, paroche chirch not bigge, but very welle buildid ex lapide polite quadrato. The second was a great manor place standing withyn a mote, and longging to tharchbishop of York, buildid yn to courtes, wherof the first is very ample, and al buildid of tymbre, saving the front of the haule, that is of brike, to the wich ascenditur per gradus lapideos. The ynner courte building, as far as I markid, was of tymber building, and was not in cumpace past the 4. parte of the utter courte. From Scroby to Bawtre a mile or more. Riding a very litle by yond Scroby manor place, I passid by a forde over the ryver : and so betwixt the pales of 2. parkes longging to Scroby I came to Bautre. Bawtre b is very bare and poore,1 a poore market toune standing yn Yorkshire, as the inhabitantes of it told me : so that by this it shold seme that Scroby water in sum partes [devidijth the shires. Yorkshire, From Bautre to Dancaster an vij. miles by a great plaine West and sandy ground caullid Blithelo, by the name of Blith ryver. Riding. -gut Qr j cam to Lancaster I passid over the ford of a brooke 3 a 3. miles of, wher, as I remembre, is Rosington bridge. I notid these thinges especially yn the towne of Dancaster.0 The faire and large paroch chirche of S. George, standing in the very area, where ons the castelle of the toune stoode, long sins clene decayid. The dikes partely yet be scene and foundation of parte of the waulles. There is a likelihod that when this chirch was erectid much of the ruines of the castelle was taken for the fundation and the filling of the waullis of it. There standith an olde stone house at the est ende of the chirch of S. George now usid for the town house : the which, as sum suppose, was a pece of the building of the old castelle or made of the ruines of it. There is in the declining in area castelli a prati litle house buildid of tymbre as a college for the prestes of the toun. There was another paroche chirch yn the towne yet stand- ing, but now it servith but for a chapelle of ease. 1 Redundant. & Scrooby. b Bawtry. c Doncaster. PART I 35 Ther was a right goodly house of White Freres in the Yorkshire, mydle of the towne now defacid : wher lay buried in a goodly W. R. tumbe of white marble a Countes of Westmerland, whos name, as one told me, was Margarete Cobham. The image of the tumbe is translatid ynto S. George Chirch, and by it as the crounet is made she shold be a duches. There was a house of Gray Freres at the north ende of the bridg, communely caullid the Freres Bridge, conteyning a 3. arches of stone. Here I markid that the north parte of Dancaster toune, yn the which is but litle and that mene building, standith as an isle : for Dun ryver at the west side of the towne castith oute an arme, and sone after at the este side of the town cummith into the principal streame of Dun again. There is also a great bridge of 5. arches of stone at the north ende of this isle : at the south ende of the which bridg is a great tournid gate of stone, at the west side whereof is a fair chapelle of our Lady, and therof it is caullid S. Mary Gate. At the est ende of this bridge be 2. or 3. great milles as at the water. There appere no tokens, as far as I could lerne or se, that ever Dancaster was a waullid toun ; yet there be 3. or 4. gates in it : whereof that in the west side is a praty tower of stone, but S. Marie Gate is the fairest. The hole toune of Dancaster is buildid of wodde, and the fo, 39. houses be slatid : yet is there great plenty of stone there about. The soile about Dancastei hath very good medow, corne, and sum wood. From Dancaster by south west to Tikhillea a 5. miles, partely by low pasture ground, partly by stony grounde but fruteful of corne. The market town of Tikhil is very bare : but the chirch is fair and large. One Estfelde, stuard sumtyme of Tikhil and Heatfeld, lyith ther in a tumbe of stone. Obijt an. D. 1386. The castel is well dichid and waullid with a very hard suart* stone hewid. The dungeon is the fairest part of the castelle Al the buildinges withyn the area be down, saving an old [* Suart in Leland, apparently = swarthy, dark-coloured. Stow has smart. ,] a Tickhill. 36 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, haulle. There is a rylle that cummith by the towne fetching W. R. no far course of and resortith toward Rosington bridge. There was a house of Freres a lityl by west without Tikhil, where lay buried divers of the Fitz-Williams, as the graunt- father and father to my Lorde Privy Scale : the which now be translatid to the paroch chirch of Tikhil. [So ys Purefoy alias Clearfoyl\ * There were also buried diverse of Clarelles in Tikhill Priory. There ys yet a place by Tikhil caullid Clarelles Haulle. There is a wood by south of Tikhil caullid Toorne Wood, and is a v. miles in cumpace. The lordship of Tikhil was yn tyme past of such estimation, that it was namid the Honor of Tikhil. From Tikil to Cunesborow a 4. miles by stony way and enclosid ground. Wher I saw no notable thing but the castel stonding on a rokket of stone and dichid. The waulles of it hath be strong and full of toures. Dunns flu. alluit villa •;;/. From Cunisborowa to Dancaster a 3. miles by fruteful ground. From Dancaster to Heathfeld b by champayn sandy ground a 5. miles. There is a faire paroch chirch in the village ; and a parke therby. The logge or manor place is but fo. 40. meanely buildid of tymber. The quarters about Heatfeld be forest ground, and though wood be scars there yet there is great plentie of red deere, that haunt the fennes and the great mores thereabout, as to Axholm warde and Thurne village. The lordship of Heatfeld sumtyme longgid to the Lord Mowbray. From Heatfeld to Thurne village c 2. miles passing over an arme of Dune. By the chyrch garth of Thurne is a praty pile or castelet wel dikid, now usid for a prison for offenders in the forestes, but sumtyme longging to the Mulbrays as Thurne did. The ground al about Thurne is other playn, more or fenne. [* So — Ckarfoy added in Leland's MS. since Stow copied it. He has not these words. ] a Conisborough. b Hatfield, Yorks. ° Thome. PART I 37 From Thurne by water to the great lake caullid the Mere, Yorkshire, almost a mile over, a mile or more. This mere is fulle of w- R. good fisch and foule. From the Mere by water to Wrangton Cote a 3. miles in a smaule gut or lode. Al this way from the Mere to Wrangton the water berith the name of the Brier. The ground there is very fenni on booth sides. From Wrangton to wher I cam on land Lincoln- in the isle of Axholm about a mile : so that from Wrangton shire, thither the water is caullid Idille ; a yet is it the very same water that Bryer ys. And of certente Idille is the auntient name. The isle of Axholm is a x. miles in lenght by south and north : and in bredth a vj. miles by west and est. From the west point of Bikers Dike up a long to the great Mere, the soyle by the water is fenny, and morische, and ful of carres. The residew is meately high ground, fertile of pasture and come. The principal wood of the isle is at Bellegreve Park by Hepworth, and at Melwood Park not far from Hepworth. There is also a praty wood at Creole, a lordship a late longging to Selleby Monasterie. In the isle be 7. paroche chirches. fo. 41. Hepworth b is the best uplandisch toun for building in one streate in the isle. Axey c is a bigge paroche, but the houses be more sparkelid then at Hepworth. There was a castelle at the south side of the chirch garth of Oxtun,d wherof no peace now standith. The dike and the hille wher the arx stoode yet be scene : it was sum- time caullid Kinard. The fery over Trent is a quarter of a mile of. By Hepworth and joyning to Bellegreve Parke remaynith yet a great parte of the maner place of Lord Mulbray of Axholm, chief owner ontyl late dayes of the hole isle. By Milwood Park side stoode the right fair monasterie of the Carthusianes, wher one of the Mulbrais dukes of North- folk was buried in a tumbe of alabaster. a Idle. b Epworth. ° Haxey, d Owston. 38 LELAND'S ITINERARY Lincoln- Mr. Candisch hath now turnid the monasterie to a goodly shire, manor place. There was many yeres sins an old manor place at West- butter Wike a apon Trent ripe. It longid, as I lernid, to a gentilman caullid Bellethorp ; to whom cam also by heire general Burneham's landes, a gentilman of the same isle. Bellethorp's landes after descendid to Shefefeld : yn the which name it hath continuid a 5. or 6. descentes. For in the chirch yard of Oxton, half a mile from Melwood Park, I saw a 5. tumbes of the Sheffeldes. Young Shefeldes father is buried in the chirch of Oxtun. Sheffeld that was Recorder of London is buried in the Augustine Freres of London, he sett up highly the name of the Sheffeldes by mariage of the doughter and sole heyre of one Delves, to whom beside was descendid the landes of Gibthorp and Babington. This Sheffeld recorder began to build stately at Butterwik, as it apperith by a greate tour of brike. fo. 42. In the isle be now these 4. gentilmen of name, Sheffild, Candisch, Evers and Mounson. The landes of one Belle- wodde be cum by mariage to this Mounson, a younger sun to old Mounson of Lincolnshire. This old Mounsun is in a maner the first avauncer of his family. The fenny part of Axholm berith much galle, a low frutex swete in burning. The upper part of the isle hath plentiful quarres of ala- baster, communely there caullid plaster : but such stones as I saw of it were of no great thiknes and sold for a xijV. the lode. They ly yn the ground lyke a smothe table : and be beddid one flake under another : and at the bottom of the beddes of them be roughe stones to build withal. Yorks, From Dancaster to Causeby lesys b a mile and more, wher W. R. the rebelles of Yorkshir a lately assemblid. Thens a 2. miles farther I saw on the lifte bond an old manor place caullid wher the king dynid. And so to Wentbrid c a pore thorough fare a 5. miles, wher Wente ryver rennith under a praty bridge of v. arches of stone, and so to Pontefract a 3. miles. » West Butterwick. b Scausby. c Went Bridge. PART I 39 The ground betwixt Dancaster and Pontfract in sum places Yorkshire, meately wooddid and enclosid ground : in al places reason- w« R- ably fruteful of pasture and corne. These be thinges that I most notid in Pontefract. Sum old people constantely adfirme that the rigge of Watelyng Streate went thorough the park of Pontfract. As far as I can gether this is the toune caullid Legeolium. After it was caullid Brokenbridg. Ruines of such a bridg yet ys scene scant half a mile est owt of old Pontfract ; but I cannot justely say that this bridge stoode ful on Watheling Streate. Pontefracte is a French name brought yn by the Laceys fo. 43. Normans for the English word of Brokenbridge. Wher as now the fairest parte of Pontefract stondith on the toppe of the hille was after the Conquest a chapel with a few sparkelid houses, the chapel was caullid S. Leonardes in the Frithe ; and as I can lerne this part of the new town was caullid Kirkeby. Edmunde Lacy buildid the college of White Freres in this part of Pontefract. Syr Robert Knolles, that was the notable warrior yn Fraunce, buildid in this part of Pontefract Trinite College, having an hospital yoinid to. In the college is a master and 6 or 7. prestes : and yn the hospital be 13. poore men and wimen. Syr Robert Knolles was ons myndid to have made this college at his manor of Skouthorp 3. miles from Wal- singham : but at the desier of Constance his wife, a woman of mene birth and sumtyme of a dissolute lyving afore mariage, he turnid his purpose, and made it yn the very place of Pontfract, wher his wife was borne, endowing the college with a i8o//. land by the yere. The castelle of Pontfract, of sum caullid Snorre Castelle, conteinith 8. tourres, of the which the dungeon cast ynto 6. roundelles, 3. bigge and 3. smaul, is very fair, and hath a fair spring. Ther is in the dike by north the conestables tourre. King William Conquerour gave the castelle with the towne of Brokenbridg, and very much land lying thereabout, to Hilbert de Laceio, a noble Norman, this Hilbert foundid the college of S. Clemente in the castelle. Ther was a college and hospital in Brokenbridg afore the Conquest, wher the monkes lay ontil the priorie was erectid. it is yet an hospitale. 40 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, Robert sun to Hilbert Lacy impropriate booth this hospital ^- R- and S. Clementes yn the o°stelle, apon conditions, to the new priorie. There is a dene and a 3. prebendes yet in S. Clementes in the castelle. The hospital of S. Nicholas of late dayes cam to the order of the priory of S. Oswald. The castel, town, and landes about Brokenbridg longgid afore the Conquest to one Richard Aschenald. Richard had Ailrik, and he had Swane, of whom cam Adam, of Adam cam 2. doughtters, wherof one of them was maried to Galfride Neville, the other to Thomas Burge. But nother of thes 2. had any part of the quarters of Brokenbridg. Robert sun to Hilbert Lacie foundid instigante Thurstino the priori of Pontfract, sending from monkes ad Fanum Charitatis filial de Ciuni. fo. 44. From Pontfract to S. Oswaldes by much enclosid and meately woddy ground a 3. miles or more. Where the paroche chirch of S. Oswaldes is now newly buildid, was in Henry the first tyme a house and chirch of poore heremites, as in a woddy cuntery, on tille one Radulphus Aldlaver, confessor to Henry the first, began the new monasterie of Chanons, and was first prior of it hymself. The building of this house is exceding great and fair : and hath the goodlyest fontein of conduct water that is yn that quarter of England. There lyith a praty pole at the west ende of the house. Secundus Prior a postremo fetchid this conduct a mile and a [halfe] of: and buildid an exceding faire keching also in the monasterie. From S. Oswaldes to Sandon village a about a 3. miles by enclosid ground, fruteful of wood, pasture and corne, as a very pleasaunt countrey to se to. Master Waterton, a man of fair landes, hath a praty manor house in Sandon paroch. The chirch of Sandon is appro- priate to S. Stephanes College at Westminster. At the est ende of this village is a praty castelet on an hilling ground with a diche aboute it. it longid to Warine Erie of Surrey : now to the king. » Sandal. PART I 41 From Sandon to Wakefeld a about a mile. Yorkshire, These thinges I especially notid in Wakefeld. W. R. The faire bridge of stone of 9. arches, under the which rennith the ryver of Calder. And on the est side of this bridge is a right goodly chapel of our Lady and 2. cantuarie prestes foundid in it, of the fundation of the townes men as sum say : but the Dukes of York were taken as founders for obteyning the mortemayn. I hard one say that a servant of King Edwardes (the 4.) father, or els of the Erie of Rutheland, brother to King Edwarde the 4. was a great doer of it. There was a sore batell faught in the south feeldes by this fo. 45. bridge. And yn the flite of the Duke of Yorkes parte, other the duke hymself, or his sun therle of Rutheland, was slayne a litle above the barres beyond the bridge going up into the toune of Wakefeld that standith ful fairely apon a clyving ground. At this place is set up a crosse in rd memoriam. The commune saying is there, that the erle wold have taken ther a poore woman's house for socour, and she for fere shet the dore and strait the erle was killid. The Lord Clifford for killing of men at this batail was caullid the boucher. The principale chirch that now is yn Wakefeld is but of a new work, but it is exceding fair and large. Sum think that wereas now is a chapelle of ease, at the other ende of the toune was ons the old paroch chirch. The vicarage at the este ende of the chirch garth is larg and fair. It was the personage house not very many yeres syns : for he that now lyvith is the 4. or 5. vicare that hath been there. Afore the impropriation of this benefice to S. Stephane College at Westminster, the personage was a great lyving ; yn so much that one of the Erles Warines, lordes of Wake- feld, and much of the cuntery thereabout did give the per- sonage to a sunne or nere kinsman of his : and he made the most parte of the house wher the vicarage now is. A quarter of a mile withowte Wakefeld apperith an hille of erth caste up, wher sum say that one of Erles Warines began to build, and as fast as he buildid violence of winde defacid a Wakefieid. 42 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, the work. This is like a fable. Sum say that it was nothing W. R. but a wind mille hille. The place is now caullid Lohille.a The toune of Wakefeld streachith out al in lenght by est and west, and hath a faire area for a market place. The fo. 46. building of the toune is meately faire, most of tymbre but sum of stone. Al the hole profite of the toun stondith by course drapery. There be few tounes yn the inwarde partes of Yorkshire that hath a fairer site or soile about it. There be plenty of veines of se cole in the quarters about Wakefeld. From Wakefeld to Pontefract a vj. miles, parte by en- closure, part by champaine, especially in the midle way caullid as I remembre Wakefeld Moore. Almost in the midle way I lefte cole pittes a litle of on the right hande. And not far from this pittes is the principale hedde of Wente ryver. There is a hedde or 2. besides. From Pontefract to Castelleford village b 2. miles, most by enclosid ground. One shoid me there a garth by the chirch yard, where many straung thingges of fundations hath be found : and he sayid that ther had beene a castelle, but it was rather sum manor place. Under Castelleford bridge of vij. arches rennith Aire ryver, and a [3.] * miles above this west up into the land is Swillington bridg on the same ryver, and 2. miles beneth Castelforde is Fery c bridge. From Castelleford to Whitewood village d a mile. There I sawe in an enclosid pasture ground the diches and hilles of an old castelle hard apon the ripe of Calder ryver. It is now caullid the Castel Hille, and belongith to one Archibald Giseland of Lincolnshire. Wateling Streate lyith straite over Castelford bridge. Thens to Aberforde v. miles, partely by low medow, but most after by good high plaine corne ground. Ther ly by est of Aberford 2. or 3. long diches as campes of men of warre. I never saw yn any parte of England so manifest tokens as [* Blank in Leland and Stow.] a Lowhill. b Castleford. c Ferry bridge. d Whit wood. PART I 43 heere of the large high crest of the way of Wateling Streate Yorkshire, made by hand. W. R. Aberford is a poore thorough fare on Wateling Streat. Cok bek springith about a mile by west of it and so ren- nith thorough it, and thens by much turning to Leade, an hamelet, wher Skargil had a fair manor place of tymber. Skargil a late knight left 2. doughtters to his heires, £0.47. wherof Tunstalle weddid one, and Gascoyne of Bedeforde- shire the other. Cok bek after crokith by Saxton and Teuton a villages feldes, and goith in to Warfe ryver a beneth Tadcaster. From Leade to Saxton village a mile. Wher Mr. Hundes- gate dwellith. In the chyrch yard were many of the bones of men that were killid at Palmesunday feld buried. They lay afore in 5. pittes, yet appering half a mile of by north in Saxton feldes. Towton village is a mile from Saxton, wher is a great chapell begon by by Richard 3. but not finishid. Syr John Multon's father layid the first stone of it. In this chapelle were buried also many of the men slayn at Palmesunday feeld. This feeld was as much fought in Saxton paroch as in Towton, yet it berith the name of Towton. From Towton to Uskelle village b aboute a mile : wher is a goodly house longging to a prebend yn York, and a goodly orchard with walkes opere topiario. Higden late Deane of York buildid much of this house. The ground about Uskel self is sumwhat low and medow- isch, as toward the faulle of waters about Nunappleton. The paroch of Ryder is but a mile from Uskelle. From Uskelle to Tadcaster a 3. miles by good corne and pasture ground and sum woodde. Tadcaster standith on the hither ripe of Warfe c ryver. and is a good thorough fare. The bridge at Tadcaster over WTarfe hath 8. faire arches of stone. Sum say there that it was laste made of parte of the ruines of the old castelle of Tadcaster. a Towton. b Ulleskelf. 6 Wharfe. 44 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, A mighty great hille, dikes, and garth of this castelle on W. R. Warfe be yet scene a litle above the bridge ; it semith by the plot that it was a right stately thing. Tadcaster standith a mile and more from Wateling Streate that tendith more toward Cairlvel, and crossith over Warfe at a place caullid S. Helenesford, a mile and a half above fo. 48. Tadcaster : and on the other ripe is S. Helenes Chapelle. iij. miles and a half above S- Helenesford is Wetherby village, and there is a bridge of stone over Warfe. 2. miles above Wetherby ys Harwood village,* and there is a ston bridg over Warf. vij. miles above Harwod is Otely,b and there is a bridg of stone over Warfe. From Tadcaster to Helegh c Priory about a 2. miles by enclosid ground, one Geffray Haget a noble man was first founder of it. In this priory were buried sum of the Depedales and Stapletons gentilmen : of whom one Sir Brian Stapleton a valiant knight is much spoken of. Geffray Haget was owner of Helegh lordship, and beside a great owner yn Ainste.d Ainste ys caullid of the Yorkshir men such partes as ly betwixt the ryvers of Owse, Nidde, Warfe and Aire. From Helegh Priory scant a mile to Helege village, there I saw great ruines of an auncient manor place of stone that longgid with the fair woddid park therby to the Erie of Northumbreland. It was, as far as I can perceyve, sumtyme the Hagetes lande. From Helegh village to York a vij., ij. by meatly woddy and enclosid ground, and 4. by playn champaine, fruteful of corn and grasse. [Here are three leaves left blank.] fo. 49. From York to Kexby bridge by champaine meately fertile East Riding, a v. miles. This bridge of 3. fair arches of stone standith on the praty ryver of Darwent,e that cummith by Malton, and as I gesse this bridge is toward the midle way bytwixt Malton and Wreshil/ wher about Darwent goith ynto Ouse. Bridges apon Darwent above Kexby. Staneford g bridge a a Harewood. b Otley. c Helaugh. d Ainstey. 8 Derwent. * Wressell. & Stamford. PART I 45 2. miles of. Butterhambridge a mile. Ousehambridge a 2. Yorkshire, miles of. Kirkham a 2. miles or more. Malton . . . . E. R. Yealdinghaa 7. miles. Aybridge 3. miles. Aitonb brid 2. **. R> miles, and a 2. miles to the hed. The commune opinion ys yet that part of Darwent water ran to Scarburge,0 but by excaving of 2. sides of hilles, stones and yerth felle in great quantite doun and stoppid that course. Bridges on Darwent byneth Kexby be none, but men use East R. to passe over by feries, saving only Sutton bridg of stone 2. miles lower then Kexby. From Kexby to Wilberford village d a mile and a dim. Wher was a priory of nunnes : and on the left hond not far of was Catton Park, sumtyme the Percys, now the kinges. Thens to Barneby village e a 3. miles. And thens to Hayton village a 3. miles, wher is a praty broke rising a mile of yn the hilles, and passith to Darwent. as I hard. But or I cam to Hayton I passid over Pokelington bek, ly ving Pokelington f about a mile of on the lift hond. Thens to Thorp village a mile. Thens to Shepton village g a mile. Thens to Wighton h a gret uplandisch village a mile. Thens to Santon village,1 wher Mr. Langdale dwellith, a mile. Thens to Lekenfeldj a vj. miles. And al this way bytwixt York and the parke of Lekenfeld ys meately fruteful of corn and grasse, but it hath litle wood. I lernid that al this part of the Est Ryding ys yn a hundred or wapentake caullid Herthil.k And sum say that it cummith one way to Wreshil,1 and of other partes touchith much on fo. 50. the boundes of the Wold, but the Wold self is no part of Herthil. Pokelington a market toun of a surety ys in Herthil : and sum say ignorantly that Beverley ys also. But Beverley men take them self as an exept place. Lekingfeld is a large house, and stondith withyn a great mote yn one very spatius courte. 3. partes of the house, a Yeddingham. b Ayton. c Scarborough. d Wilberfoss. e Barmby-on-the-Moor. * Pocklington. 8 Shipton. h Market Weighton. * Sancton, i Leconfield. k Harthill. 1 WresselL 46 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, saving the meane gate that is made of brike, is al of tymbre. E. R. The 4. parte is fair made of stone and sum brike. I saw in a litle studiyng chaumber ther caullid Paradice the genealogie of the Percys. The park therby is very fair and large and meately welle woddid. Ther is a fair tour of brike for a logge yn the park. From Lekingfeld to Beverle a 2 miles. These thinges I notid yn Beverle. The collegiate chirche of S. John of a fair uniforme making, wherin, beside the tumbes of sainctes, be 3. tumbes most notable on the north side of the quier : yn one of them with a chapul archid over it is buried Percy Erl of Northumber- land, and his sun father to the last erle. In another is buried Eleanor, wife to one of the Lord Percys. And yn another of white alabaster Idonea Lady Percy, wife to one of the Lord Percys. Under Eleanor's tumbe is buried one of the Percys a preste. The prebendaries houses stand round aboute S. John's chirche yard. Wherof the Bishop of York hath one motid, but al yn mine. The fairest part of the provostes house is the gate and the front. There be besides yn the chirch of and the chirch of S. Nicolas by the holm, wher the gut for the fo. 51. catchis is [of S. Mary] chirch, at the north ende of the toune, is larg, and fair, and crosse islid. In the toune were of late 2. housis of freres. The Blak Freres, as sum say, of one Goldsmithes funda- tion, and so of the townes : but the Lord Darcy of late tyme strove for the patronage of it with the toun. The Gray Freres of the fundation of the Huthomes gentilmen of Scorburgb by Lekingfeld. The laste Erie of Northumbr. save one strave for the patronage of it. There were 4. hospitales in the toun. S. Giles, wherof one Wulse,*as it is thought, afore the Conquest, was [the foundarj.f [* Leland and Stow both wrote the long s without a stroke. Appa- rently it should be Wulfe.] [t Leland has no blank here, but omitted some word, which Stow supplied as above.] a Beverley. b Scorbrough. PART I 47 it was longging to the bisshops of York ontyl such tyme that Yorkshire, Bisshop GuTard intitelid it to Wartre, a priorie of chanons in E- R- Yorkshir. It came a late to the Erie of Rutheland, and he suppressid it. Trinite Hospital yet stondith yn the hart of the toun : sum say one Ake foundid it. Ther was an hospital of S. Nicolas by the Blak Freres, but it is dekayid. Ther is an hospitale yet standying hard without the north Bargate of the foundation of 2. marchant men, Akeborow and Hogekin Overshal. As I remembre ther is an image of our Lady over this hospitale gate. Ther is an house also of the Trinite aboute the est side of the toune : and longgid to the order of the Knighttes of S. John's. The toune of *Beverle is large and welle buildid of wood. But the fairest part of it is by north, and ther is the market kept. Ther was good cloth making at Beverle : but that is nowe much decayid. The toune is not waullid : but yet be there these many fair gates of brike, North barre, New bigyn bar by west, and Kellegate barre by west also. From Beverle to Cotingham a a 3. mile, wherof 2. was welle fo. 52b. woddid, and at the 2. miles ende I left the great park of Beverle on the lift hond : and so a mile by low medow grounde to Cotingham. Al the ground about Cotingham up to Meause Abbay, and al that quarter that goith up on every side up to Kingeston apon Hulle is low ground very fruteful of medow and pasture. Entering into the south part of the great uplandisch toun of Cotingham, I saw wher Stutevilles Castelle, dobill dikid and motid, stoode, of the which nothing now remaynith. The landes of this signiorie and lordship greatly privilegid cam of later tymes by division ynto 4. partes, wherof now a late the king had one part, the Countes of Saresby another, the Erl of Westmerland the 3. and the Lord Poys the 4. At this tyme the king hath al, saving the Lord Poys part. fo, 53. At this present tyme be 4. sundry meane fermers houses, a Cottingham. 48 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, as one for eche of the 4. lordes, withyn the castelle E- R- garth. The lenght of the toun of Cotingham is by sought and est. The paroch chirch of it is auncient and meatly larg. The personage is not very fair for so great a benifice. it lyyth on the north side of the chirch garth. The paroch of Cotingham is very larg. Ther rennith a bek by the est end of Cotingham, it risith yn a wood a mile of by north, and rennith by est a mile and a half by neth Cotingham yn to Hulle ryver at a place, as I remember, caullid Newlande. From Cotingham to Kingeston a about a 4. miles by low ground, wherof 2. miles be causey way, dikid on booth sides. Cotingham ys not even the next way from Beverle to Kingston, for going the next Kingeston is caullid but 6. miles from Beverle. The towne of Kingeston was in the tyme of Edward the 3. but a meane fischar toune, and longid as a membre to Hasille village b a 2. or 3. mile of, upper on Humber. The first great encreasing of the towne was by passing for fisch into Iseland, from whens they had the hole trade of stoke fisch into England, and partly other fisch. In Richard the secundes dayes the town waxid very rich : and Michael fo. 54. De la Pole, marchaunt of Hulle, and prentyce, as sum say, to one Rotenhering of the same toun, cam into so high favor for wit, actyvite, and riches, that he was made Counte of Southfolk, wherapon he got of King Richard the 2. many grauntes and privileges to the tonne. And yn his tyme the toune was wonderfully augmentid yn building, and was enclosid with diches, and the waul begon, and yn continuance endid and made al of brike, as most part of the houses of the toun at that tyme was. In the walle be 4. principal gates of brike. The north gate having 4. wardes, bytwixt the which and Beverle gate be 12. touers of bryke, and yn one of them a postern. Ther be 5. toures of brike and a postern in one of them, as I remember, bytwixt Beverle gate and Miton gate. Ther be 3. toures of brike betwixt Miton gate and Hasille gate of 3. wardes. And from thens to the mouth of the Havin mouth » Kingston-upon-Hull. b Hessle. PART I 49 be a 5. toures of brik, to the which the Humber se cummith, Yorkshire, and in one of these is a posterne to the shore. And because E. R. that the waul from Hasilgate to this postern lyith strait as a lyne, ther is much gabylle making and wynding of hempe for smaul cordes. From the mouth of Hulle ryver upper ynto the Haven ther is no waulle, but every marchant hath his staires even to the north gate. Suburbes in the out part of the toun be none. Michael De la Pole buildid a goodly house of brik again the west end of S. Maries Chirch lyke a palace with goodly orchard and gardein at large, enclosid with brike. Michael De la Pole buildid also 3. houses besides in the fo. 55. town, wherof every one hath a tour of brike, 2. of them be in the hart of the toun. The 3. is apon Hulle ripe in the haven side. There be 2. chirchis yn the toun, the Trinite, and S. Maries, and nother of them by the name of an hedde paroch chirche. The Trinite Chirch most made of brike is the larger a gret deale and the fairer. Ther ly 4. notable chapelles on the south syde of this chirch, crosse islid. A chapel of the fundation of Hanby and one Richard Hansun marchauntes. The next is a chapel made as sum say by a chauncelar of Lincoln. The 3. is a chapelle of stone, made by Bisshop Alcock, borne in Beverle : wheryn Gul. Alcok [and Johan,] parentes [to the bishop] be buried, and ther is a cantuarie. The lowest chapelle is caullid the Mariners Chapelle. Ther is also a chapel in the body of the chirch made by one Rippelingham, prest, whos father a marchaunt of the toune lyith there : and ther is a cantuarie. Ther is a chapelle also on the north side of the crosse isle of one Robert Frost, a marchaunt man. The tourre in the crosse isle of this chirch for the belles is larg and fair. In the south side of this chirch yarde is the fre schole erectid by Bishop Alcock. In the west end of the chirch yard is the fair row of E 50 LELAND'S ITINERARY fo. 56. longginges from* prestes of the toun made by one John Yorkshire, Grigge, mair of the toun, and by it is an hospitale made by E- R- the same John Grigge. And therby ys the Mariners Hospital. Selbys Hospitale is on the north side of the chirch yard. Selby is buried yn the south side of the waulle of isle by the quire : and his wife also, with very fair images. The White Freres College stode by Beverlegate. The Percys were, taken for founders of it. The Augustine freres stode at the est ende of Trinite Chirch. The toun haul is therby and a tour of brik for a prison. Most part of the brik that the waulles and houses of Kingston wer buildid was made without the south side of the toun; the place is caullid the Tylery. At such tyme as al the trade of stokfisch for England cam from Isleland to Kingeston, bycause the burden of stokfisch was light, the shipes were balissid with great coble stone brought out of Isleland, the which yn continuance pavid al the toun of Kingeston thoroughout. The toune of Kingeston had first by graunt custodem, then bailives, then maire and bailives : and in King Henry the 6. tyme a maire, a shirive, and the toun to be shire ground by it self. One told me that their first great corporation was grauntid to Kingeston a 180. yere syns. The charter house of the De la Poles fundation, and an fo. 57. hospitale of their fundation stonding by it, is without the north gate. The hospitale standith. Certein of the De la Poles wher buried yn this Cartusian monastery : and at the late suppressing of it were founde dyverse trowehes of leade with bones in a volte under the high altare ther. Most part of this monastery was buildid with brike, as the residew of the buildinges of Hulle for the most part be. The next trajectus from Kingston to the shore of Humbre in Lincolnshir is about a 3. mile to a place caullid Golflete.a Yet the communer traject is from Kingeston to Berton b [* Sic in Leland, both words being contracted. He evidently meant lodginges for, so read by Stow and Burton. See the same spelling on p. 53, 11. 10, II. Loggeings was Leland's regular spelling.] Goxhill. b Barton. PART I 51 apon \Humber\* and that is a 7. miles of: and is cotmtid, Yorkshire, by reson of the violent casting of the streme, as good a E- R- passage as to Golflete. From Kingeston to Patrington, wher is an havenet or creke for shipes, a x. miles, on Humber shore on Yorkshir. Thens to Ravensburg, the very point on York side of the mouth of Humber, 10. miles. Thens to Hornesey a smaul creke an 18. miles. Thens to Bridlington haven a 12. miles. Thens to Flamborowb hed, pointing into the se, a 3. miles; and so a 9. miles to Scarborow :c and as the next way liyth, Scarborow is as nere to Bridlington as it is to Flamburg. Thens an 8. miles to a fischer tounlet of 20. bootes caullid Robyn Huddes Bay,d a dok or bosom of a mile yn lenghth ; and thens 4. miles to Whiteby,6 wher is an havenet holp with a peere and a great fischar toune. Thens to the mouth of Tese f a xv. miles. From Kingeston to Beverle g a vj. miles, by the gainest way East Riding, a v., by low pasture and marsch ground, and a mile by en- closid and sumwhat woddy ground. From Beverle to Walkington village a 2. mile, one by enclosid, and another by chaumpain good corne ground. From Walkington village to Northcave village v. miles by fair champain corn ground. There rennith a broke by Northcave and so into Humbre. From Northcave to Scalby a 3. miles, al by low marsch and medow ground, leving the arme of Humbre on the lift hond yn sighte. This fenne is communely caullid Waullyng Fenne,h and hath many carres of waters in it : and is so bigge that a 58. villages ly in and butting of it, wherof the most part be yn Houghden lordship longging to the Bisshop of Duresme : and part yn Harthil Hunderith. The fenne is a 16. miles in cumpace, and is al of Hough- denshire. From Walkington to Hoveden i a xij. miles, al yn Hove- fo. 58. denshir. [* Leland has no blank, nor does Stow supply the word.] & Hornsea. b Flamborough. ° Scarborough. a Robin Hood's Bay. e Whitby. * Tees. 8 Beverley. h Walling Fen. * Howden. 52 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, And thens Hovedenshir goith almost to the mouth of E. R. Darwent, and so up on Humber shore as good as 20. miles by water to very boundes of Feriby. From Scalby to Hoveden 4. miles, scant one by enclosid pasture, and 3. by morische and fenny ground. The toun of Howden the only market of Howdenshire is of no great reputation. The colligiate chirch is auncient and meatly faire. Ther be 5. prebendes by these names, Hove- dene, Thorpe, Saltmarsch, Barneby and Skelton. In the quire lyith one John of Hovedene, whom they caul a sainct, one as they say of the first prebendaries there. It apperith by inscription of a very fair stone varii Mar- moris that the bowelles of Walter Skerlaw,1 Bisshop of Dirham, were biried in Howden Chirch. There is also a turn be, in a chapel of the sout part of the crosse isle of the chirch, of one of the Metehams. The Bisshop of Dirham palace liyth on the south of the chirch, wherof the first part at the entre is of tymber : the other 3. most of stone and part of brike. Certen chirchis of Howdenshir do homage to Hoveden Chirch. Ther is a park by Hovedene longging to the Bisshop of Duresme yn the way to Wresehil. In Hovedenshir be these gentilmen of most fame. Meteham of Meteham, half a mile from Humberside. Mounteton of Portington of Portington. From Hovedene to Hemingburgea yn the way toward York > about a 2. miles. There be yn the smaule collegiate chirch of Hemingburgh longging to Dyrham 3. smaul prebendes. fo. 59. From Hoveden to Wresehil b a 3. miles al by low medow and pasture ground, wherof part is enclosid with hegges. Yet is the ground that the castelle of Wresehil standith on sumwhat high yn the respect of the very lough ground theraboute. 1 He built the steeple and repaired the church and hall of the mannor, and dyed 1406, 7. H. 4. — Burton, marginal addition, fo. 23. a Hemingborough. * Wressel. PART I 53 Most part of the basse courte of the castelle of Wresehil is Yorkshire, al of tymbre. E- R- The castelle it self is motid aboute on 3. partes. The 4. parte is dry where the entre is ynto the castelle. The castelle is al of very fair and greate squarid stone both withyn and withowte. wherof (as sum hold opinion) much was brought owt of Fraunce. In the castelle be only 5. towers, one at eche corner almost of like biggenes. The gate house is the 5, having fyve long- ginges * yn high[t], 3. of the other towers have 4. highes in longginges : the 4. conteinith the botery, pantery, pastery, lardery and kechyn. The haule and the great chaumbers be fair, and so is the chapelle and the closettes. To conclude, the house is one of the most propre beyound Tr[ent]e, and semith as newly made : yet was it made by a youngger brother of the Percys, Erie of Wiccester, that was yn high favor with Richard the secunde, ande bought the maner of Wresehil, mountting at that tyme litle above 3o//. by the yere : and for lak of heires of hym, and by favor of the king, it cam to the Erles of Northumbreland. The basse courte is of a newer building. And the last Erie of Northumberland saving one made the brew house of stone without the castelle waulle, but hard joyning to the kechyn of it. One thing I likid excedingly yn one of the towers, that was a study caullid Paradise, wher was a closet in the midle of 8. squares latisid aboute : and at the toppe of every square was a desk ledgid to set bookes on f cofers withyn them, and these semid as yoinid hard to the toppe of the closet : and yet by pulling one or al wold cum downe, briste higthe in rabettes, and serve for deskes to lay bokes on. The garde robe yn the castelle was excedingly fair. And fo. 60. so wer the gardeins withyn the mote, and the orchardes withoute. And yn the orchardes were mountes opere topiario writhen about with degrees like turninges of cokilshilles, to cum to the top without payn. The ryver of Darwent rennith almost hard by the castelle. and about a mile \ lower goith [* i.e., lodgings.] [t Books on bis in Leland.] [£ A mile bis in Leland. ] 54 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, ynto Owse. This ryver at greate raynes ragith and over- E. R. flowith much of the ground there aboute beyng low medowes. There is a parke hard by the castelle. From Wresehil to .... Fery about a mile, most Yorks, by medow ground, and so a xj. miles to York, wherof Ainsty. most part was in sight medow and morisch ground, and but meane corne, but toward York the soyle and corne was better. The towne of Yorke stondith by west and est of Ouse ryver, renning thorough it : but that parte that liyth by est is twis as great in buildinges as the other. Thus goith the waul from the ripe of Owse * of the est parte of the cite of York. Fyrst a great towre with a chein of yren to caste over the Ouse : then another tower, and so to Boudom gate : from Boudom bar or gate to Goodrome gate or bar x. toures. Thens 4. toures to Laythorp a posterngate : and so by the space of a 2. flite shottes the blynde and depe water of Fosse cumming oute of the forest of Galtres defendith this part of the cyte without waulle. Then to Waume gate 3. toures, and thens to Fisscher gate stoppid up sins the communes burnid it yn the tyme of King Henry the 7. Sum say that Waume gate was erectid at the stopping up of Fisschar gate : but I dout of that. And yn the waul by this gate is a stone with this inscription : LX. yardes yn lenghth Anno D. 1445. William Todde mair of York did this coste. fo. 61. Thens to the ripe of Fosse a 3. toures, and yn the 3. a posterne. And thens over Fosse by a bridge to the castel. Fosse bridge of [5.] arches above it : Laithorpbridg on Fosse of 3. arches. Monke bridge on Fosse of 5. arches withoute Good- rome gate. The area of the castelle is of no very great quantite. There be a 5. ruinus toures in it. The arx is al in ruine : and the roote of the hille that yt stondith on is environid with an arme derivid out of Fosse water. These be the notable places withyn the waul of that part of York that standith on the est side of Owse. The cathedrale a Ouse. PART I 55 chirch with the palace betwixt Boudom gate and Godrom Yorkshire, gate. S. Leonardos sumtyme a priory of chanons. Ainsty. There be viij. arches yn eche of the side isles of the body of the cathedrale chirch of York, and 4. on eche part of the cros isle, and 9. on eche of the isles of the sides of the est part of the chirch. The Augustine Freres bytwixt the toure on Ouse ripe and Owse bridge having 6. arches. The White Freres not very far from Laythorpe gate. Ther was a place of the Bigotes hard withyn Laithorp gate, and by it an hospital of the Bigotes fundation. Syr Francis Bigot let booth the hospital and his house al to mine. The hospitale of S. Antony foundid about a 100. yeres syns, by a knight of Yorkshir, caullid John Langtoun. Sum say that he was mair of York. The Gray Freres not far from the castelle. The priori of Blak Chanons with the hospital of S. Leonardes. The hospitale northwarde above Fosse bridge of the foundation of the marchantes of the toun, and dedicate to the Trinite. The chapelle on Fosse bridge. Ther was a fundation of an hospitale hard without the very side of Michelgate of the erecting of Syr Richard of York, mair of York, whom the communes of Yorkshir when they enterid into York by brenning of Fisscher gate in the reign of Henry the 7. woold have behedid. But the funda- tion was never finishid. S. Marie Abbay without Boudom gate. S. Andreas a house of chanons Gilbertines by Owse with- out Fisschargate. Ther was a house of religion about one of the barres of Yorke, wherby the burgeges of York and the Henawdes that cam to war in aid of Edward the 3. faute, and divers were slain. I hard one say that it was a house of Whit monkes. A chapelle and the toun haule above Ousebridg on the est ripe with a (aula civicd) and an hospitale. A chapelle or chirch on Ouse bridg. Ouse bridg hath 6. archis. From York to Aire-Mouth apon Ouse by water a 24. miles, Thens to Hulle 24. miles. 56 LELAND'S ITINERARY v* 6£ v From York [to] Borow Bridge a by water a 16. miles. Ainstv ' The west Part of the cite of York is this enclosid : first a turret, and so the waul rennith over the side of the dungeon of the castelle on the west side of Ouse right agayn the castelle on the este ripe. The plotte of this castelle is now caullid the old baile and the area and diches of it do mani- festely appere. Betwixt the beginning of the firste part of this west waulle and Michel gate be ix. toures : and betwixt it and the ripe again of Owse be a xi. toures, and at this lower tower of the xi. ys a posterne gate : and the toure of it is right again the est toure to draw over the chaine on Owse betwixt them. In this west part was a priory of blak monkes caullid the Trinite. [Mauricius Panill was foundar there of in the 16. yere of William Rufus.] * The nunnery of Clement Thorpe stode without the waul of the west part right again S. And[re]as. Ther was also not far from Michel gate a house of Blake frerfes.] The fraunches and liberties of Yorke streache far aboute them, especial by the enclosinges of certeyn ryvers there- about. And one way it cummith to the very bridge of Tad- caster apon Warfe.f fo. 63b. From York to Stokton b yn the moore a 3. miles by low North pasture and moorisch ground. Riding Thens a 5. miles by much lyke ground, and so passid over a broke cumming from Shirifwottes Castelle quarters. The place wher I passid over it is communely caullid the Spitel, corruptly for hospitale. A litle beyond that as about half a mile is Whitewelle village : J c and a mile of on the right hond by a wood ys Kirkham. Thereabout the feeldes for a miles space were inclosid, and sum woodes therabout. Thens a 2. miles by fyrry to a bek caullid Crambek, cum- ming from Hinderskelled Castelle standing yn ground ful of [* Added by Stow.] [f Leland left nearly two pages blank here.] [J Leland wrote uilgage in error.] * Boroughbridge. b Stockton. c Whit well. d Hinderskelfe, PART I 57 springes. This bek goith into Darwent not far of. Hinder- Yorkshire, skela is 3. miles from Malton. N. R. Malton is 26. miles from Hulle, xx. to Beverle, vj. to Hulle. Thens to Malton a 3. miles : and the ground is hilly there and daly, and plentiful of corne and pasture. The toune of Malton stondith as I cam onto it on the fo. 64. hither side of Darwent, and hath a good market and 2. chapelles in it as members to the paroche chirch of Malton yet stonding, where the late priory yn old Malton was. It is a quarter of a mile above the toun on the same side of Darwent. The castel of Malton hath been larg, as it apperith by the ruine. There is at this tyme no habitation yn it, but a mene house for a farmer. These men hath the lordship of Malton in partition. The Lord Clifford, Yevers, and one of the Coniers. But Yevers hath beside the hole lordship of old Malton. Lord William Vescy and diverse of the Yevers wer buried at Malton. The old inheritaunce of the Yevers is Wotton Castelle yn the bisshoprik. Yevers hath also a goodly [lord- ship] by Mitford in Northumbreland caullid Berwik on the Hil.b The Lord Vescy left' a doughter that was maried to Aiton. and the doughter of Aiton was maryed to the Lord Brom- feld : and his 3. doughters to Clifford, Yevers, and Coniers of Sokburne. Rie c cumming out of Blakmore passith by Rivers d Abbay, and takith in of the lift hand of it Ricolle : then Seven, then Costey and Pykering brooke. Seven risith, as I could estimate, in the side of Blake More, and thens goith by Sinington,6 wher the Lord Latimer hath a fair manor place a 4. miles from the town of Pykering: and about a mile above .... bridge on Ry goith ynto Rye water. Costey springith in the egge of the very toun of Pykering at a place caullid Keldehedde, and goith ynto Rie a 2. miles beneth Pykering about Kyrkeby Minster/ Pykering water risith in Blakemore and goith half a mile benethe Pikering in[to Costey.] a Hinderskelfe. b Berwick-on-the-Hill. c Rye. d Rivaulx. e Sinnington. f Kirkby Misperton. 58 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, Mount Ferrant Castelle stoode 2. miles from Malton in N. R. the lordship and paroche of Byrdeshaul.a It is now clerely defacid, and bussches grow wher it stoode. This castelle sum time belongid to the Lord Maulley, of the which stok ther were 8. yn succession, al by the name of Peter. The laste of these Peters left 2. dough ters, wherof one was maried to Bigot, and the other to Salwaine. Bigot had yn division Mougreve with 8. tounelettes ther about the se cost longging to it, wherof Seton therby was one, he had also Mountferrate with Birdeshaul and Suadale lordship in Richemontshire, with other. Saulwayne had for his part of Maulleys landes the barony of Eggeston b on Eske not far from Whitby, also Lokington,c Barugh,d not far from Watton on Hulle ryver (ther was ons a fair manor place of Maulleys at Barugh), Nessewik and the lordship of Dancaster : * for the which Dancaster he tooke fo. 65. a lordship caullid of Percy, the which after by attaindure of one of the Percys cam thus to the kinges handes. For though Percys were restorid to their inheritaunce, yet they lost Dancaster as a peace got by exchaung or byinges. The only house and lordship of Ceterington6 was Bigotes of Yorkshir first inheritaunce there. For it longid afore to Bigot Erl Marescal, and so cam as landes entailid to the heire male to a younger brother of the Bigotes. Diverse of the Bigotes ly buried in the paroch chirch of Ceterington. Sum say that Mount Ferrant was thus throuen doune. The 2. of the Bigotes of Ceterington after the death of Bigot Marescal did secretely woe and wan the wylle of one of the Albemarles doughters Erie of Holdernes. Wherapon Albe- merle with great indignation, Bigot being absent, assaultid Mount Ferrant, wan it and rasid it : yet Bigot after made his peace with Albemarle : and had his doughtter by meane of intercessor, emong whom the prior of Watton was chifest, to whos house Bygot after for love impropriatid the personage of Byrdeshaule. And sum say that this Bigot made of the [* Petrus de Malo lacu dominus de Dancastre, in margin. — L.] a Birdsall. b Egton. c Lockington. d Brough. e Settrington. PART I 59 manor place of Mougreve a castel in recompence of Mount Yorkshire, Ferrant. N. R. Mougreve a Castelle stondith on apon a craggy hille : and on ech side of it is an hille far higher then that whereon the castelle stondith on. The north hille on the toppe of it hath certen stones communely caullid Waddes Grave, whom the people there say to have bene a gigant and owner of Mougreve. There is by these stones a bekyn. Out of the mores by Mougreve cum doun by many springes, 2. bekkes, one of eche side of the castelle, and yn the valeys of the 2. fo. 66. great hilles. The one is caullid Sandbek, the other Estbek, and shortely after goith to the se that is not far of. From Malton to Shirburne villag b about an 8. miles by Bast R» champaine ground, fruteful of grass and corne, but litle or no wood. The Erie of Saresbyri was lord of Shirburn : and King Richard had it by Anne his wife. From Shirburne by hilles on the right hond and low ground with carres on the lift hond a v. miles to Semar,c a North R. great uplandisch toune, having a greate lake on the south west side of it. Whereof the toun takithe name. I saw yn the quire of the meane paroch chirch there a playn marble stone yn the quire, with an epitaphi yn French, wher were buried John Percy and Johan de Aton. The manor place of the Percys at the west [end of the] chirch garth is large [but of no richje building : the chapel [yn it only] ys welle buildid. Thens a mile by meatly playn ground, and so 2. miles more yn a vale enclosid with stepe hilles on ech side to Scardeburg. Scardeburg toune d though it be privilegid, yet it semith to be yn Pikering Lithe, for the castelle of Scardeburgh is countid of the jurisdition of Pikering, and the shore from Scardeburgh to the very point of Philaw e bridge by the se about a vj. miles from Scardeburgh toward Bridlington is of Pikering Lith jurisdiction. Scardeburg wher it is not de- fendid by the warth and the se is waullid a litle with ston, but most with diches and waules of yerth. In the toune to entre by land be but 2. gates : Newburgh gate, meately good, and Aldeburgh gate, very base. The toune stondith hole on a Mulgrave. b Sherburn. ° Searaer. d Scarborough. e Filey. 60 LELAND'S ITINERARY fo 67. a s^aty c^e : an^ shoi[th very] fair to the se side. Th[er is Yorkshire, ^ut one] Paroche chirch in the town, of our Lady, joyning N. R. almost to the castelle : it is very faire and is isled on the sides, and crosse islid, and hath 3. auncient towres for belles with pyramides of them : wherof 2. toures be at the west end of the chirch, and one yn the midle of the cross isle. There is a great chapelle by side by the Newborow gate. There were yn the toun 3. howsis of freres, gray, blake and white. At the est ende of the totme, on the one poynt of the bosom of the se, where the harborow for shippes is, stondith an exceding goodly larg and stronge castelle on a stepe rok, having but one way by the stepe slaty crag to cum to it. And or ever a man can entre aream Castelli ther be 2. toures, and betwixt eche of them a draw bridg, having stepe rok on eche side of them. In the first court is the arx and 3. toures and row, and then yoinith a waul to them, as an arme downe from the first courte to the point of the se cliffe, conteining in it vj. toures, wherof the 2. is square, and fulle of longging, and is caullid the Quenes Towre or lodging. Without the first area is a great grene, conteyning (to reken down to the very shore) a xvj. acres, and yn it is a chapelle, and, beside, olde waulles of houses of office that stoode there. But of al the castelle the arx is the eldest and the strongest part, the entery of the castelle betwixt the draw bridges is such that with costes the se might cum round about the castelle, the which standith as a litle foreland or poynt betwixt 2. bayes. At the south est point of Scarburgh toun by the shore is a bulwark, now yn ruine by the se rage, made by Richard fo. 68. the 3. that lay a while at Scardeburg Castelle, and, beside, began to waul * a pece of the toun guadrato saxo. Ther cummith by south este of the bulwark a rill of fresch water, and so goith ynto the se. I hard there of an old mariner that Henry the First gave grete privilege to the town of Scardeburge. The peere wherby socour is made for shippes is now sore decayid, and that almost yn the midle of it. [* The word waul is obscure, but this is probably the right reading. Stow has began toward, which gives no sense.] PART I 61 The toune of Scardeburge is 36. miles from Hulle. 30. to Yorkshire, Beverle and vj. to Hulle. N. R. From Scardeburg to Robyn Huddes Bay a an 8. miles : and thens to Whitby, wher a new key and port is yn making of stone faullen down yn the rokkes thereby : and al this is cliffy shore : and so is the shore to Tese mouth thens just 1 6. miles, saving a 6. miles toward the mouth of Tese ryver. From Scardeburg to Bridlington 9. miles al be cliffes to East R. Flamborow, and so to the mouth of Bridlington haven. As Flamburgh Point lyith, Bridlington lyith as nere to Scardeburgh as Flamburg doith. Flamburg b is now taken rather for a maner place then a castelle. From Bridlington to Hornesey c a xij. miles by .... shore. Thens xviij. miles to Ravenspurgh,d and x. to Patrington, a toun of no market, yet having an havenet. Thens to Heddon haven a 6. miles, and 4. to Hulle. Heddone hath beene a fair haven toun : it standith a mile and more withyn the creke, that cummith out of Humbre ynto it. The se crekes parting aboute the sayde toun did insulate it, and shippis lay aboute the toun : but now men cum to it by 3. bridges, wher it is evident to see that sum places wher fo. 69. the shippes lay be over growen with flagges and reades : and the haven is very sorely decayid. There were 3. paroche chirchis in tyme of mynde : but now ther is but one of S. Augustine : but that is very fair. And not far from this chirch garth appere tokens of a pile or castelle that was sumtyme ther for a defence of the town. The town hath yet greate privileges with a mair and bailives : but wher it had yn Edwarde the 3. dayes many good shippes and riche marchaunts, now there be but a few botes and no marchauntes of any estimation. Suaruing * and choking of [* Suaruing \ from verb to swerve, to turn aside.] a Robin Hood's Bay. b Flamborough. c Hornsea- d Ravensburgh. e Hedon. 62 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, the haven, and fier defacing much of the toun hath beene B. R. the decay of it. Sum say that the staple of woulle of the north partes was ons ther. Treuth is that when Hulle began to flourish, Heddon decaied. The Erie of Albemarle and Holdernes was lord of Heddon : and also of Skipton yn Craven at the same tyme. This erle had a great maner place at Newton, a mile byneth Hedon, nerer to Humbre then it. for it stondith on the lower side of the creke : and Heddon on the upper. Ther be 2. cantuarie prestes foundid by the Albemarles at Newton. The Albemarles had also a castelle or great manor place at Skipsey a yn Holdernes, not far from the shore, a vj. or vij. miles from Bridlington. The countery of Holdernes ys thus encludid. First by the confines on the shore betwixt Bridelington and Skipsey. Then for the Erles Dike, made by one of the Albemarles Erles of Holdernes : and this dyke ys a 3. or 4. miles from Bridlington, and goith withyn a litle of Frodingham-bridge fo. 70. of tymbre, the only bridge on Hulle water : so that the ende of the diche cummith with the water of it a litle above the bridg as Hulle ryver goith. It flouith at high springges to Frodingham bridge. Then from this bridg that is a 2. miles or more byneth Dryfelde b the ryver of Hulle kepith yn the march of Holder- nes to the very mouth of Hulle haven : and thens the marche of Holdernes is to Ravenspur the very mouth of Humbre : and thens the occean se to the shore bytwixt Skipsey and Bridlington. From Scardeburg to Aitonc a 3. miles, wher cumming over Darwent I saw 'a manor place sumtyme longging to a knight caullid Aiton : now to the best of the Yevers. At this manor place is a tower or pile. Thens to Brunston d a 3. or 4. miles : and a 3. miles to Wileton,6 wher is a manor place with a tower longging to Cholmeley. This Cholmeley had much of one Hastinges (a knight) landes. This Cholmeley hath a howse also at Rollesley: and Cholmeley's father that now is was as an * Skipsea. b Driffield. c Ayton. d Brompton. e Wilton. PART I 63 hedde officer at Pykeringe, and setter up of his name yn that Yorkshire, quarters. N« R- Thens to Pykering : and moste of the ground from Scarde- burg to Pykering was by hille and dale meate plentifull of corn and grasse but litle wood in sight. The toune of Pykering a is large but not welle compact to gither. The greatest part of it with the paroch chirch and the castel is on the south est part of the broke renning thorough the toune, and standith on a great slaty hille. The other part of the toun is not so bigge as this : the brook rennith bytwixt them that sumtyme ragith, but it suagith shortely agayn : and a mile beneth the toun goith ynto Costey. In Pykering Chirch I saw 2. or 3. tumbes of the Bruses, fo.7i. whereof one with his wife lay yn a chapel on the south syde of the quier. and he had a garland about his helmet. Ther was another of the Bruses biried in a chapel under an arch of the north side of the body of the quier : and there is a cantuarie bering his name. The Deane of York hath by impropriation the personage of Pykering. to the which diverse chirchis of Pykering Lith doith homage. The castelle stondith in an end of the town not far from the paroch chirch on the brow of the hille, under the which the broke rennith. In the first court of it be a 4* toures, of the which one is caullid Rosamunde's Toure. In the ynner court be also a 4. toures, wherof the kepe is one. The castelle waulles and the toures be meatly welle; the logginges yn the ynner court that be of timbre be in ruine, in this inner court is a chappelle and a cantuarie prest. The castelle hath of a good continuance with the towne and lordship longgid to the Lancaster bloode : but who made the castelle or who was owner of it afore the Lancasters I could not lerne there. The castelle waulles now remaining seme to be of no very old building. As I remembre I hard say that Richard the thirde lay sumtyme at this castelle, and sumtyme at Scardeburgh Castelle. In the other part of the toune of Pykering passing over [a] a Pickering. 64 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, brook by a stone bridg of v. arches I saw 2. thinges to be N- R- notid, the mines of a manor place, caullid Bruses-Haul, and a manor place of the Lascelles at Keldhed. The circuite of the paroch of Pykering goith up to the very browes of Blakmore, and is xx. miles in cumpace. fo. 72. The park by the castelle side is more than vij. miles in \cumpace\ but it is not welle wooddid. The liberties of Pikering Lith and limites touchith to the very bridg of Philaw a by the shores side a 6. miles from Scardeburg toward Bridlington, and thens again by the shore to Scardeburg Castelle, and so upward toward Whiteby. In another place toward the wald it goith to Normanby bridge. And in another corner it goith to [the] very browes of Blakmore. So that I reken it sum way as good as a xx. miles in lenghth, at non part latitudine. And though yn sum part it passith over Darwent by Aiton, yet in another place toward Malton, Darwent doth exclud it. And there I lernid of Mr. Conestable, that the cuntery lying on the north est side of Darwent from Shirburneb paroch to Stanford bridg on Darwent is of an hunderith, bering the name Hercrosse, and lyith bytwixt the woold and Ridale. These houses of religion were in Pikering Lith on Darwent : Wikeham c a priory of nunnes, and Yeallingham,d a 2. miles lower on Darwent, a priory also of nunnes. There stode lower on this ryver, but not in Pykering Lith, Malton and Kirkham priories. From Pykering to Thornton bridge on Rie ryver a 3. miles. So that descending from Pykering toun I passid thorough a plain low medow lying in the same paroch : and I gessid it to be in cumpace a 4. miles. But or I cam to Rie,e I passid over Costey water, that a mile lower then Pikering receyvith Pykering brok, a bigger water then it. fo. 73. * From Rie to Appleton a mile and more : and thens to [* CentemJ "antes, in margin. — L.] Filey. b Sherburn. c Wykeham. d Yeddingham. e Ryton. PART I 65 Hinderskela a 2. miles and a half, part by low but most by Yorkshire, high ground. There is a fair quadrant of stone having 4. N- R- toures buildid castelle like, but it is no ample thing. The latter building of it semith to have bene made by the Gray- stok, whos landes the Lord Dacres now hath. The park of Hinderskel by my estimation is a 4. miles yn cumpace, and hath much fair yong wod yn it. From Hinderskel to Shirhuten b Castelle a 4. miles, most by high ground. A mile a this side Shirhuten I left on the right hond . . . . Mr. Gower's auncient manor place. The castelle of Shirhuten, as I lernid there, was buildid by Rafe [Nevill} * of Raby the first Erl of Westmorland of the Nevilles : and I hard that in his tyme he buildid or greatly angmentid or repairid 3. castelles by side. There is a base court with houses of office afore the enter- ing of the castelle. The castelle self in the front is not dichid, but it stondith in loco utcunque edito. I markid yn the fore front of the first area of the castelle self 3. great and high toures, of the which the gate house was the midle. In the secunde area ther be a 5. or 6. toures, and the stately staire up to the haul is very magnificent, and so is the haul it self, and al the residew of the house : in so much that I saw no house in the north so like a princely logginges. I lernid ther that the stone that the castel was buildid with was fetchid from a quarre at Terington c a 2. miles of. There is a park by the castel. This castel was wel maintainid, by reason that the late Duke of Northfolk lay ther x. yers, and sins the Duk of Richemond. From Shirhuten b to York vij. miles, al in the forest offo. 74. Galtres, wherof 4. miles or more was low medowes and morisch ground ful of carres, the residew by better ground but not very high. Owte of this side of the forest cummith as a drener of it Fosse water to York. [* Interlineation in Leland's MS. since Stow's time, by Burton.] a Hinderskelfe. h Shcrriff Hutton. c Teningt-,r.. F 66 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, I saw very litle wood yn this quarter of the forest. N. R. There is a place in York caullid David Haul, assignid as a place of punischment for offenders in Galtres. From York to Tollerton a lordship with a village longging to the office of the thesaurer of York Minster 8. miles by higher ground then the other part of Galtres, and reasonably woddid. Then I saw on the right hond a 4. miles of the castelle of Crek,a gyven by King Ecbright to S. Cuthebert. Ther remainith at this tyme smaul shew of any old castel that hath beene there. There is an haul with other offices and a great stable voltid with stone of a meatly auncyent building. The great squar tower that is thereby, as in the toppe of the hille and supplement of logginges, is very fair, and was erectid totally by Neville Bisshop of Duresme. There is a park, and the circuite of the lordship is 7. miles: the value being a 40/7". by the yere. From Tollerton I passid a 2. miles farther in the forest of Galtres, and ther it extendith no farther. About this place loking on the left hand I saw Miton village,b that is x. miles by north west from York : wherby the Scottes had victory of the Englisch host in Edward the 2. tyme. f°. 75- Thens a miles * to Herperby village c by meatly good corn ground, pasture, and medow, and sum wooddes. Thens to Thornton bridge, of 3. arches on the depe and swift stream of Swale, a mile. And thens to Topeclif,d an uplandisch toune, a 3. miles, wher I cam over Swale by bridge of tymbre. The praty manor place of Topclif stondith on a hille about half a mile from the toune, almost on the ripe of Swale. The last Erl of Northumbreland did cost on this house. There long 2. partes f to this manor, the bigger wherof is a 6. or 7. miles in cumpace, and is welle wooddid. From Topclif to Brakenbyri,6 wher Master Lacelles hath [* Stow has mile.'} [t Stow reads parks.] » Crayke. b Myton. c Helperby. d Topeliffe. e Brackenborough. PART I 67 huildid a very praty house, a 4. miles : and hard therby ren- Yorkshire, nith Wisk ryver, and devidith the lordshipes of Brakenbyri N. R. and Kirkby Wisk. I saw the smaul market toun of Tresk & on the right hond about a mile from Brakenbyri. At Tresk was a great castel of the Lord Mowbrays. And there is a park with praty wood about it. There is much land about that quarter, holden of the signiorie of Tresk. The broke caullid Coddebek rising yn the browes of Blake More therby cummith by Tresk, and after goith into [ Wil- lowebefc] * ryver. From Kirkeby Wisk to Northalverton b a 4. miles by pasture and corne ground. I markid by much of the way as I roode from Tollerton onto Wisk bridg, most communely caullid Smithon bridge, that I passid yn a meately fertile valley bytwixt Blakemore hilles by est, and Richemontshir hilles by weste, a good distance being bytwixt them. The towne of Northalverton is yn one fair long streate lying by south and north. The paroch chirch of it is large, but in it I saw no tumbes of noble men yn it. Ther was a house of freres in the est side fo. 76. of the toune. And yn the same coste but a mile or I cam ynto the towne I saw the Hospitale of S foundid by . . . . Bisshop of Dyrham. At the west side of Northalverton a litle from the chirch is the Bisshop of Dyrham's palace, strong of building and welle motid. And a 2. flite shottes west north west from it be diches and the dungeon hillewher the castelle of Alverton sumtyme stoode. No part of the walles thereof now apperith. There cummith a very litle bek thorough the toun of Northalverton as from est to west, and is communely caullid Sunnebek. [* Inserted since Stow's time, (?) by Burton.] Thirsk. D IMorthallerton. 68 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, A litle by north without Alverton toun is a bridg of one N- R- arch of stone, thorough the which cummith a bygger broke then Sunnebek, and rising partely out of [the est] cummith toward the west, and passith thorough the medowes bytwixt the castelle hilles and the bisshopes palace, and therabout receyvith Sunnebek into it, and within half a mile lower goith into Wisk. Northalvertonshir is holely of the dition of the Bisshop of Duresme, and such gentilmen as have landes there be of the holde of the bisshop. These gentilmen be of most name in Northalvertonshire : Strangwaise of Harlesey,a wher Strangwaise the juge buildid a praty castelle. Malory. Coniers at Vincent in Smithonb paroch a litle* beyond Smithon bridge. Thwaites, whose house I saw on the lift hond, a litle a this side Smithon bridge. fo. 77 , Ther is very litle wood yn Northalvertonshire : and but one park at Huten c now withoute deere. The shire of Northalverton strechith one way from within a litle of Ripon nere to Tese bank, and on the est is limitid with Blakemore-hilles, and on the west with Richemontshire. The place caullid Cowton More, wher, as sum say, was the feld of the standard bytwixt the Englisch menne and the Scottisch, is, as I lernid, a 4. miles by north west from Alverton. There is good corne in Northalverton, yet a great peace of the ground that I saw at hand bytwixt Northalverton and Smithon bridge is low pasture and mores, wherof part beere sum fyrres. From Alverton to Smithon d bridge a 6. miles, wher Wisk rennith cumming a 6. miles of by este from Smithon. Thens a 3. miles to the trajectus over Tese to Sokbourne. Notable bridges on Tese. Yareham e bridg of stone, a 3. miles above Stokton, made, as I hard, by Bisshop Skirlow. [* The original has lithe, Stow reads litle.'] a Harlsey. b Smeaton. c Hutton. d Smeaton. e Yarm. PART I 69 Croft bridge. Yorkshire, Perse a bridge. N. R. Sokburne b where as the eldest house is of the Coniers, with the demains about it, of a mile cumpace of exceding plesaunt ground, is almost made an isle as Tese ryver windedith about it. A litle beneth the maner place is a great were for fisqh. In the paroche chirch of Sokbourn is the tumbe of Sir John Coniers, that maried Elisabeth, eldest [daughter] to Bromflete Lord S. John, and Bromflet, as I saw it ons writen, was made Lord Vescy by King Henry the 6. for he had much of the Lord Vescy land by mariyng the doughter and heir of Aton a knight, that came lineally of a doughter. Anastasia the 2d. doughter was maried to the Lord Clifforde, and Katarine to Eure. The house and land of Sokburn hath bene of auncient tyme the very inheritaunce of the Coniers, whos name (as I lernyd of hymself) is in auncient writingesCongres not Coniers. From Sokburn to Niseham c apon Tese a 3. miles : and fo, 78. then a v. miles to Darington by pure good corne. Durham. Daringtond bridge of stone is, as I remembre, of 3. arches, it is the best market town in the bisshoprick, saving Duresme. There is an exceding long and fair altare stone de vario marmore, hoc est, nigro albis maculis distincto, at the high altare in the collegiate paroche chirch of Darington. There is a dene longging to this college and . . . prebendaries. The Bisshop of Duresme hath a praty palace in this toune. From Darlington to Acheland e 8. good miles by resonable good corne and pasture. A mile a this side Akeland Castelle I cam over a bridg of one great arch on Gaundelessef a praty ryver rising a vj. miles of by west : and renning by the south side of Akeland Castelle goith a litle beneth it to the great streame of Were.g Gaundeles rising by west cummith by Westakeland,1' byS. Helenes Akeland,1 by S. Andreas Akeland,-1 and by Bisshop Akelande. a Piercebridge. b Sockburn. c Neasham. d Darlington. e Bishop Auckland. f Gaunless. 8 Wear. h West Auckland. * St. Helen's Auckland. J St. Andrew's Auckland 70 LELAND'S ITINERARY Durham. The towne self of Akeland is of no estimation, yet is ther a praty market of corne. It standith on a praty hille by t ween 2. ryvers, wherof Were lyith on the north side, and Gaimdelesse on the south, and an arow shot or more benethe they meete and make one streame, and ren to the este. And ech of these rivers hath an hille by it, so that Bisshop Castelle Akeland standith on a litle hille bytwixt 2. great [hills]. There was of very auncient a manor place logging to the Bisshop of Duresme at Akeland. Antonius de Beke began first to encastellate it, he made the greaut haulle, there be divers pillors of blak marble spekelid with white, and the exceding fair gret chaumbre with other there. He made also an exceding goodly chapelle ther of stone welle squarid, and a college with dene and prebendes yn it, and a quadrant on the south w[est] side of the castell for ministers of the college. Skerlaw, Bisshop of Duresme, made the goodly gate house at entering ynto the castelle of Akeland. fo. 79. There is a fair park by the castelle having falow dere, wild bulles and kin. From Bisshop Akeland to Walsingham a a 7. miles, thens to Frosterley 2. milys, thens to Stanhopb 2. miles, thens to Estgatec 2. miles, thens to Westgate 2. miles, thens to Wer- dale Chapel d 2. miles; and al these places, saving Werdale Chapell, be on the north side of Were. The Bisshop of Duresme hath a praty square pile on the north side of Were ry ver caullid the Westgate, and thereby is a parke rudely enclosid with stone of a 12. or 14. miles yn cumpace: it is xvj.* miles up in Were Dale from Akeland Castelle. There be, as I hard, sum litle ferme holdes in this park. On the side of Were river is Stanop. Stanop6 is xij. miles from Akeland : and is the hedde paroch of Werdale. Woulsingham f on Were sumtime a smaul market, now none, is a vij. miles above Akeland. [* Leland first wrote xij,, then corrected it to xvj.] a Wolsingham. b Stanhope. c East Gate. d St. John's Weardale. e Stanhope. f Wolsingham. PART I 71 The ryver of Were risith a 8.* miles above Stanope or Durham, more. And though the upper part of Weredale be not very fertile of corne ; yet ys there very fine gresse in the dale self wher the ryver passith. The very hedde of Were risith of 2. smaul waters, Burnhop* and Kelope.b Burnhop cummith by south and Kelhop by north, they 2. joining make Were. Ther cummith also Welop c [be]k in by Kelhop. There resorte many redde dere stragelers to the mountaines of Weredale. Weredale lying as pece of the west marches of the bis- shoprik toward Westmerland is wel wooddid : and so be the quarters of Akeland : for by the name it apperith to have beene ful of okes. Binchester now a poore villag stondith on the south side of Were, and is but half a mile beneth Castelle Akeland. It stondith on the brow of an hille, and there I saw, as I roode on the south side, a litle fosse, and inditia of old buildinges. In the ploughid feeldes hard by thys village hath and be founde Romaine coynes, and other many tokens of antiquite. Betwixt Akeland and Bincester is an exceding fair bridg of one arch apon Were. There is another a litle above Duresme caullid Thunderland Bridge. From Binchester to Branspeth d 4. miles, al by mountaine fo. 80. ground, as is about Akeland, and not fertile of corne, but welle woddid. Ar I cam by a mile and more to Branspeth I passid by a ford over Were ryver. The village and castelle of Branspeth stondith on a rokky among hilles higher then it. On the southe west part of the castelle cummith doune a litle bek out o the rokkes and hilles not far of. The castelle of Branspeth is stronly f set and buildid, and hath 2. courtes of high building. Ther is a litle mote that hemmith a great peice of the first court. In this court be 3. toures of logging, and 3. smaule ad ornamentum. The [* Leland first wrote 2, but correcting it to 8 forgot to write an.] [t Stow has strongly, ,] a Burnhope. b Killhope. c Wellhope. d Brancepeth. 72 LELAND'S ITINERARY Durham, pleasure of the castelle is in the 2. court : and entering into it by a great toure I saw in schochin in the fronte of it a lion rampaunt. Sum say that Rafe Nevile the first Erie of West- merland buildid much of this house. The erle that is now hath set a new peace of worke to it. In the paroch chirch of S. Brandon at Branspeth be dyvers tumbes of the Nevilles. In the quier is an high tumbe of one of them porturid with his wife. This Neville lakkid heires males, wherapon a great concertation rose bytwixt the next heire male and one of the Gascoynes. There lyith also in a chapelle on the south side of the quier a Countes of Westmerland sister to Bouth Archebisshop of York. There lyith in that chapelle also the Lord Neville, father to the erle that is now. This Lorde Nevile died his fo. 81. father the erle yet lyving : wherapon the erle toke much thought and dyed at Horneby* Castelle in Richemontshir, and ther is buried in the paroche chirch. The Erie of Westmerland that is now had an elder brother, and he lyith in a litle tumbe of marble by the high altare on the south side. And at the feete of hym be buried 4. childern of the erles that now lyvith. I hard at Branspeth that Rafe the first Erie of Westerner- land was buried at his college of Stanethrop b by Raby. And that another of them was buried at the freres of North- Alverton.c From Branspeth to Duresme about a 3. miles. Or ever I cam nere Duresme d by half a mile and more I passid over a bridge of one great arche, and another smaul, stonding on a praty river, caullid Dernesse alias Devernesse, and a litle above that cam Broune river ynto it. Broune risith above Repaire Park, and so cumming by it goith after into Dernesse. Dernesse risith and goith into Were at The towne self of Duresme stondith on a rokky hille : and stondith as men cum from the south cuntre on the \nortti\ ripe of Were : the which water so with his course naturale in a botom windith about, that from Elvet a greate stone bridge a Hornby. b Stainclrop. c Northallerton. d Durham. PART I 73 of 14. arches it crepith about the toune to Framagate bridge Durham. of 3. arches also on Were, that betwixt thes 2. bridges or a litle lower at S. Nicolas the toune except the lenght of an arow shot is brought in insulam : and sum hold opinion, that of auncient tyme Were ran from the place wher now Elvet bridge is straite down by S. Nicolas now stonding on a hille : and that the [ojther course, part for pollicy and part by digging of stones for building of the town and minstre, fo. 82. was made a valley, and so the water-course was conveyid that way, but I approve not ful this conjecture. The close itself of the minstre on the highest part of the hille is welle waullid, and hath diverse fair gates. The chirch self and the cloister be very strong and fair : and at the very est end of the chirch is a crosse isle by side the midle crosse isle the minstre chirch. The castelle stondith stately on the north est side of the minstre, and Were rennith under it. The kepe stondith a loft and is state * buildid of viij. square fascion, and 4. highes of logginges. Bisshop Fox did much reparation of this dungeon : and he made beside in the castelle a new kychen with the offices and many praty chaumbers. Tunstal hath also done cost on the dungeon and other places of the castel, and hath buildid a goodly new galery and a stately stair to it, and made an exceding strong gate of yren to the castelle. In that part of Duresme toun that is almost exclosid with Were be 3. paroch chirches and a chapell. S. Oswaldes is countid to be auncient. There be a 3. paroche chirches mo in the suburbe. The greatest suburbe is by Elvet bridg, and hath certen smaul streates. The suburbe over Framagate bridg hath 3. partes. the south streat on the lift hand, the crosse streate on the midle toward Akeland, and the 3. on the right hand, bering the name of Framagate, and leding to Chester a and to New- Castelle. The building of Duresme toun is meately strong, but it is fo. 83. nother high nor of costely werke. There appere sum peaces [* Stow has stately.'} * Chester-le-Street. 74 LELAND'S ITINERARY Durham, of waulles of the toune joyning to a gate of the palace waul, but the toun iVself with yn the peninsula is but a smaul thing in respect o/ cumpace of al the stately close : so that it alonly may ^e caullid the waullid toune of Duresme. In the sanctuary or holy chirch yard or sanctuarie of Duresme be very many auncient tumbes, it stondith on the south side of the minster : and at the hedde of one of them is a crosse of a 7. fote longe, that hath had an inscription of diverse rowes yn it, but the scripture cannot be red. Sum say that this crosse was brought out of the holy chirch yarde of Lindisfarn isle. Weremouth a is about an 8. miles from Duresme, and about a vj. from Tinemouth, or rather Newcastel. There is no bridge memorable on Were beneth Duresme but Chester bridge. Were cummith within a quarter of a mile of the toun self [of Chester.] From Duresme over Framagate bridge to Chester in the Streate,b partely by a litle corne ground, but most by moun- tainiouse pasture and sum mores and firres. Or I cam in Chester I saw scant half a mile of it Lomeley c Castel apon an hil, having praty wood about it, and about Chester self is likewise sum wodde. The toune of Chester is chiefly one streate of very meane building yn lenght : ther is beside a smaul streat or 2. about the chirch; that is collegiatid, and hath a dene and prebendaries, but it is of a very meane building ; and yn the body of the chirch is a tumbe with the image of a bisshop yn token that S. Cuthberth ons was buried or remained in his feretre there. At the very ende of the toune I passid over Conebrooke, and ther is a fair stone bridge of 3. arches over it. Thens to Geteshed d vij. miles by montaniouse ground with pasture, heth, more, and fyrres. And a litle a this side Getehed is a great cole pit.* fo. 91. From Duresme over Elvet bridge to Sunderland bridges a [* Here follows the direction, "Turne to the ix. lefe folowing." Then comes a blank leaf, and seven leaves filled with genealogical extracts out of several rolls, with Leland's comments upon them. These are printed in Appendix I. The narrative continues at the mark x on the ninth leaf, against the words " From Duresme."] a Wearmouth. b Chester-le-Street. c Lumley. d Gateshead. PART I 75 2. miles and a half, there Were is devidid ynto 2. armes, and Durham, after shortely meating makith an isle. The first bridg as I cam over was but of one arche, the other was of 3. Thens a mile and more of I cam over Burne broke that goith ynto Were therabout, and a litle above on the hil is Burneham Claxton's house. Burnham is a man of a hunderith mark land by the yere. Then I rode thorough a great wod stonding on a hille, and so cam by hilly, morisch and hethy ground to S. Andres Akeland a 8. miles from Duresme : and left hard on my right hond one of the parkes of Akeland waullid with stone. At S. Andres Akeland the Dene of Akeland hath a great house : especially for barnes and other houses of husbondry. From S. Andres Akeland to Raby Castel 5. miles, part by arable but more by pastures and morisch hilly ground baren of wood. Raby is the largest castel of logginges in al the north cuntery, and is of a strong building, but not set other on hil or very strong ground. As I enterid by a causey into it ther was a litle stagne on the right hond : and in the first area were but 2. toures, one at ech ende as entres, and no other buildid;yn the 2. area as in entering was a great gate of iren with a tour, and 2. or 3. mo on the right hond. Then were al the chief toures of the 3. court as in the hart of the castel. The haul and al the houses of offices be large and stately : and in the haul I saw an incredible great beame . of an hart. The great chaumber was exceding large, but now it is fals rofid and devidid into 2. or 3. partes. I saw ther a litle chaumber wherin was in windowes of colerid glasse al the petigre of the Nevilles : but it is now taken doun and glasid with clere glasse. There is a touer in the castel having the mark of 2. capitale B from Berthram Bulmer. There is another tower bering the name of Jane, bastard sister to Henry the 4. and wife to Rafe Nevile the first Erl of Westmerland. Ther long 3. parkes to Raby wherof 2. be plenishid with fo. 92. dere. The midle park hath a lodge in it. And thereby is a chace bering the name of Langeley,b and hath falow dere : it is a 3. miles in lenght. a St. Andrew's Auckland. b Langley. 76 LELAND'S ITINERARY Durham. The king hath a forest of redde deere yn the more land at Midleton a an viij. miles west from Daraby. Dr. Noteres is parson of Midleton. Stanthorpb a smaul market toun is about half a mile from Raby. Here is a collegiate chirch, having now a body and 2. isles. I hard that afore Rafe of Raby tyme ther was that alonly that now is the south isle. In this south isle, as I hard, was buried the grauntfather and grandedam of Rafe Raby, and they made a cantuarie there. In the waul of this isle appere the tumbes and images of 3. ladys, wherof one hath a crounet, and a tumbe of a man child, and a flat tumbe, varii marmoris. Ther is a flat tumbe also with a playn image of brasse and a scripture, wher is buried Richard sun and heire to Edward Lord of Bergevenny. This Edward was the fift sun of Daraby. Johanna Bewfort was his mother. This Edward had another sun caullid George, and was lord after : and he had Georg also lord, and he left Henry now Lorde of Bergevenny. John by Rafes first wife was Lord Neville. Richard by Johan his 2. wife was Erie of Saresbyri. Robert was Bisshop of Duresme. George was Lord Latimer. Edward was Lord Bergevenny, and, as I remembre, Rafe had William that was Lord Falconbridge. Rafe Neville the first Erl of Westmer- land of that name is buried yn a right stately tumbe [of] alabaster yn the quire of Stanthorp College, and Margarete his first wife on the lift hond of hym : and on the right hond lyith the image of Johan his 2. wife, but she is buried at fo. 93. Lincoln by her mother Catarine Swineford Duches of Lan- caster. This Johan erectid the very house self of the college of Stanthorp,b it is set on the north side of the collegiate chirch, and is strongly buildid al of stone. Ther rennith by the north side of the college a bek caullid Langley Bek. it risith a 5. [miles] of by west in the paroch of Midleton,a and cumming thorough Langeley takith the name of it, and a mile or more beneth goith into Tese lower then Salaby0 Mr. Brakenbyris place. From Stanthorp to Barnardes Castel d by meately good corne and pasture 5. miles. This is a meatly praty toun, • Middleton. b Staindrop. c Selaby. d Barnard Castle. PART I 77 having a good market and meatly welle buildid. The toun Durham. self is but a part of Gaineford paroch, wher the hed chirch is 6. miles lower on Tese and in the bisshoprike. The castelle of Barnard stondith stately apon Tese. The first area hath no very notable thing yn it, but the fair chapelle, wher be 2. cantuaries. In the midle of the body of this chapel is a fair marble tumbe with an image and an inscription about it yn French. Ther is another in the south waul of the body of the chapelle of fre stone, with an image of the same. Sum say that they were of the Bailliolles. The inner area is very large, and partely motid and welle furnishid with toures of great logging. Ther belong 2. parkes to this castelle ; the one is caullid Marwood, and thereby is a chace that berith also the name of Marwood, and that goith on Tese ripe up into Tesedale. There is but a hil betwixt the chaces of Langeley and Marwod. This is by a nere estimation the course of Tese : Yade More hath the hedde of Tese, then it takith a course emong rokkes, and reseyving divers other smaul hopes or bekkes, and cummith much by wild ground for a 8. or x. miles to ^Egleston* bridge wel archid : then to Barnard Castel bridge very fair of 3. arches : then to Perse b brid[g]e sumtime of 5. arches, but a late made new of 3. arches. There is a prati chapel of our Lady hard by Perse bridg [of] the fundation of [John Bail]liol King of [Sco]ttes. Thens to Crofte bridge 5. miles; and so to Yarhamc fo.94. bridge a ... miles ; and thens to Stokton, wher is a fery, 3. miles ; and so a 4. miles to Tesemouth. From Barnardes Castelle over the right fair bridge on Tese Yorkshire, of 3. arches I enterid straite into Richemontshire, that stil N- R- streaccith up with that ripe to the very hed of Tese. From this bridge I ridde a mile on the stony and rokky bank of Tese to the bek caullid Thuresgylle, a mile from Barnardes Castelle, and there it hath a bridge of one arche and straite enterith into Tese. The priory of Eglestond joinith hard to this bekk and also hanggith over the high bank of Tese. a Egglestone. b Piercebridge. c Yarm. d Eggleston Abbey. 78 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, Ther is meatly good wood on eche side of Tese about N- R- Barnardes Castel. I saw in the body of the chirch of Egleston to very fair tumbes of gray marble. In the greatter was buried, as I lernid, one Syr Rafe Bowes, and yn the lesser one of the Rokesbys. Hard under the clif by Egleston is found on eche side of Tese very fair marble, wont to be taken up booth by mar- belers of Barnardes [Castelle] and of Egleston, and partly to have be wrought by them, and partely sold onwrought to other. Out of a booke of Mr. Garter's. One of the Bigottes Erie Mareschal was founder of Chart- mail a Priory. One of the Nevilles Lord of Midleham was founder of Coverham Priory. One Theobald was founder of Camsey b in Southfolk : and by him Lord Willoughby. Ingelramus* Lord Coucy was Erie of Bedeford anno D. I337- fo. 95. From Egleston to Gritey bridge0 of 2. or 3. arches a 2. mile by pasture, corn and woode. Gretey is a village standing on Watheling-streate, and hath the name of Gretey ryver that rennith thorough it, and by Mr. Rokesby's d place goith ynto Tese. There is a park hard thereby waullid with stone caullid Bigenelle e Park, it longgith to the Lord Scrope. There apperith manifestly in diverse places by Gretey f From Gretey to Ravenswath f a v. miles, and ther passing over the praty river of Ravenswath I cam to the village and castelle of Ravenswath. This ryver risith a 7. or 8. miles of the castel in the hilles by west north west : and passing a 3. miles lower goith into Swale, wher the ryver of Swale is nerest to Ravenswath Castel it is a 3. miles of. [* Leland first wrote Emgerant, then corrected as above.] [t No blank here, but Leland omitted something.] » Cartmel. b Campsey. c Greta Bridge. d Rokeby. e Brignall. * Ravensworth. PART I 79 The castelle excepting 2. or 3. [square towers and] a fair Yorkshire, stable [with a conduct commyng] to the haul [syde hathe no N. R. thinge mejmorable in it. [There is a parke by 3. miles in compase.] From Ravenswath to Richemont a 3. long miles, by a mile wherof I ridde thorough a greate woodde on a hille, and ther were dyverse wilde brookes renning thorough stones and resorting to Swale. The grounde betwixt Ravenswath and Richemont ful of hilles, sum good corn, and much more. I cam thoroug a great long strete in Richemont or I cam to the top of the hille, where the best of the toune caullid the Bailly and the Castelle. Sum think that the place wher the Baily was ons extima area castelli, and sins buildid with houses ; waullid it was, but the waul is now decayid. The names and partes of 4. or 5. gates yet remaine. There is a chapel in Richemont toune with straung figures in the waulles of it. The people there dreme that it was [ons a temple of ijdoles. [Gillings,b wher some thinke] the lordes [manor was afore the] Conquest is a [2. miles from the toune of Richemount]. From Richemont to Midleham first a mile by ille rokky fo. 96. ground, but first over Richemont bridge of 4. arches, and then vij. miles al by mory grounde and litle wood nere in sight. A litle or ever I cam to Midleham c I passid over Ure by a ford. Midleham is a praty market toun and standith on a rokky hille, on the top wherof is the castel meately welle dikid. Al the utter part of the castelle was of the very new setting of the Lord Neville caullid Darabi. The ynner part of Midleham Castel was of an auncient building of the Fitz- randolp. From Midleham to Wenslaw d about a mile, and ther is a great bridge of stone over it made many yere sins by a good person of Wencelaw, caullid Alwine. To Bolton a 3. miles. The toun is very rude : but the castelle, as no great howse, is al compactid in 4. or 5. towers. Ther is a praty parke hard by it. [Thens to a] place in a great rok [a 2. myles of wher] my a Richmond. b Gilling. c Middleham. d Wensley. So LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, Lord Scrop [sekethe for leade] to Midleham N. R. poor part . . .* From Midleham to Gervalx a Abbay a 2. miles, most by enclosid pastures. A little beneth Midleham I went over Cover ryver : and therby, on the lift hond, it went into Ure. Thens to Masseham,b a praty quik market town and a faire chirch, a 4. miles, by wood, pasture and sum good corne. At the ende of Masseham townlet I passid over a fair ryver caullid Bourne. It goith into Ure therby a litle byneth the bridg. The lordship of one of the Aldeborows lyith agayn the ripa as I cam super Burn,f wher it goith into Ure. Thens to Gruelle Thorp c a 3. or 4. miles bi hilly, and lingy, and sum morisch ground. And thens by much like ground a 3. miles to Ripon. After that I passid from Thorp half a mile I left hard on the lifte hond Kirkeby Malesart,d wher Moulbray had ons a great castelle. This paroch of Kirkby Malesart is large. The lordship now longith to the Erl of Darby. The [cuntrye thereabowght] is welle [wooddyd, from Midleham] to Ripon [and about Ripon]. fo. 97, The olde towne of Ripon stoode much by north and est, as I could gather by veuing of it. The best of the toune now standith by west and southe. The old abbay of Ripon stoode wher now is a chapelle of our Lady in a botom one close distant by from the new minstre. One Marmaduke abbate of Fountaines, a man familiar with Salvage Archebisshop of York, obteinid this chapelle of hym and prebendaries of Ripon : and having it gyven onto hym and to his abbay pullid down the est end of it, a pece of exceding auncient wark, and buildid a fair pece of new werk with squarid stones for it, leving the west ende of very old werk stonding. [* Even Stow cannot fill up this gap. Here he has a note in his copy, " decayed, that shuld folow about 3. lynes or more."] [f Leland first wrote " mouth of Tese," he then struck through Tese and interlined " ripa as I cam super Burn" over the words. The above reading appears to be his final ntention. ] a Jervaulx. b Masham. ° Grewelthorp. d Kirkby Malzeard. PART I 8 1 He began also and finishid a very fair high waul of squarid Yorkshire, ston at the est end of the garth, that this chapel stondith yn : w- R- and had thought to have enclosid the hole [garth with a like] waulle, and [to have made thjere a celle of [white monks. There lyethe one of the Englebys] in the est end of this chapel, and there lyith another of them yn the chapelle garthe, and in the chapel singith a cantuarie prest. One thing I much notid, that was 3. crossis standing in row at the est ende of the chapelle garth. They were thinges antiquissimi operis^ and monumentes of sum notable men buried there : so that of al the old monasterie of Ripon and the toun I saw no likely tokens left after the depopulation of the Danes in that place, but only the waulles of owr Lady chapelle and the crosses. The new minstre is set up of the hille, a fair and bigge pece of work : the body of the chirch of very late dayes made of a great widnesse by the treasour of the chirch and help of gentilmen of the cuntery. Ther be 3. great old towres [with pyramides on] them, 2. at the [west end, and one in] the midle [of the crosse isle].* The commune opinion is that Odo, Archebisshop of fo. 98. Cantewarbyri, cumming ynto the north partes with King had pitie of the desolation of Ripon chirch, and began or caussid a new work to be edified wher the minstre now is. Howbeit the hole chirch that now standith indubitately was made sins the Conquest. The minstre now servith for the paroch chirch. The prebendaries houses be buildid in places nere to the minstre, and emong them the archebisshop hath a fair palace. And the vicars houses be by it in a fair quadrant of square stone buildid by Henry Bouet Archebisshop of York. The paroch is of a very great cumpace, and goith one way to Pateley Bridg a vij. miles of. In the paroch be sum chapelles of ease. There hath bene about the north part of the olde towne a paroch church by the name of Alhalowes. The very place wher the market stede and the hart of the [towne is, was] sumtyme caullid [Holly-Hille of holy] trees [* A line of the MS. cut off here.] G 82 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, ther [growing, whereby it] apperith that [this parte of the] w> Rt toun is of a [newer buyldynge.] There apperith by est north est at the toune end of Ripon a great hille of yerth cast up in a playn close, bering now the name of Ilshow Hille, wher be al likelihod hath beene sum great forteres in the Britons tyme. And at the very north ende of the toun in a side of a close behind the bisshops palace is another hille lyke a kepe of a castel, bering the name of Alhalowis Hilles. So that one of the hilles standith directely set agayn the conspect of the other. Al the hole towne standith as I cam to it on the hither ripe of Skelle, a praty ryver cumming out of the west and renning by south on the toune first under a stone bridge, and then under a bridge of wood, and about a quarter of a mile lower into Ure, almost in the midle way betwixt North Bridg and Hewwik a Bridge of stone on Ure. [These 2. bridges on] Ure be a 3. [quartars of a myle] distant one [from the othar.]* fo. 99. Ther be in the town of Ripon 3. hospitales, S. Marie Madalenes and S. Johns of the Archebisshops of York funda- tion. Magdalenes is on the hither ripe of Skelle as I cam to the town, but hard on it. S. Johns is on the farther ripe of Skelle, and sumwhat nere onto it. The hospital of S. Anne of the foundation of a gentilman of the cuntery thereby, whos landes be now disparkelid by heires general to divers men, is hard on the hither ripe of Skelle. And about this part of the toun Skelle for mille dammes is devidid into 2. partes, and sone after cummith agayn to one botom. There hath bene hard on the farther ripe of Skelle a great numbre of tainters for wollen clothes wont to be made on the town of Ripon : but now idelnes is sore encresid in the toun, and clothe making almost decayed. The fair about the fest of S. [Wolfride] at Ripon is much cele[bratid for byenge of horses.] [* A line is apparently cut off here.] a Hewick. PART I 83 [The toune itselfe of] Ripon standith on Yorkshire, From Ripon to West Tanfeld about a 4. miles, part by w> R- wood part by pasture and come. And as I cam out of Ripon I passid by a great park of thArchbisshopes of York a vj. miles in cumpace. And or ever I cam to West Tanfeld I passid by fery for lak of bridge. The tounelet of West Tanfeldea standith on a cliving ground hard by Ure, a ryver of a colowr for the most part of soden water, by reason of the colowr and the morisch nature of the soile of Wencedale,b from whens it cummith. In the chirch of West Tanfelde be dyverse tumbes in a chapelle on the north side of the chirch of the Marmions. Wherof one is in an arch of the waulle, and that semith most auncient. Then lyith [there] alone a lady [with thapparaill of a] voues. [And another lady] with a crounet [on hir hedde.] Then is there an high tumbe of alabaster in the midle of f0. 100. the chapel, wher, as I hard say, lyith one Lorde John Marmion. And yn the south side of the chapelle is another tumbe of the Marmions buried alone. There is a master and 2. cantuarie prestes at Weste Tanfelde of the fundation of one of the Marmions : and there is another cantuarie besides these. The castelle of Tanfeld, or rather, as it is now, a meane manor place, stondith harde on the ripe of Ure, wher I saw no notable building but a fair tourid gate house and a haule of squarid stone. One Claregenet, baily or surveier at Tanfeld, hath an auncient booke of the Erles of Richemont and the Marmions. There be 2. fair parkes at Tanfeld and meately plenty of wood. Est Tanfeld c lyith about a mile lower on Ure ryver. I hard say of one at West Tanfeld that ther were 3. doughtter heires to and that Marmion had one of them. » West Tanfield. b Wensleydale. c East Tanfield, 84 LELAND'S ITINERARY Leiland. Yorkshire, But loke wither that Marmi[W.r landes~\ descendid not tc w* R- 3- [daughters as heires gene]raile, and that the \Lord FitzhugK\ nother were not ...... * Passing over the ryver of Skelle, and soone after over Ure at a forde byneth Huewik bridge, I saw on the one hand the lordship of Huten Conyers a now longging to Malory, wher hath bene a parke but litle wood in it. This lordship long- gith to the territorie and libertees of Northalverton,b and yet is it enclosid about with landes of Richemontshire. There is a fair chapel of freestone on the farther ripe of Ure at the very end of Hewwik bridge, made bi an heremite that was a mason : it is not fulle finishid. The marches Richemontshire cummith one way to the very north bridge of Richemont- on Ure by Ripon. And it cummith another way to Borow I saw on the other hand a lordship caullid, as I remembre, Gindene0, wher is a fair manor place of stone of late tymes longging to the Warde, whos 3. heires general wer thus maried, one to Musgrave of Cumbreland and Westmerland, [another to Nejville of Thornfton Bridge.] fo. 101. From Ginden lordeship to Borow-bridge by corne and pasture grounde a 3. miles. There I passid over a great bridge of stone on Ure. The toune is but a bare thing, it stondith on Wateling- Streate ; almost at the very ende of this towne cummith a litle broke a 4. or 5. miles of by west caullid Tudlad, and rennith into Ure a very litle beneth Borough-bridge. A litle withowt this towne on the west parte of Wateling- Streate standith 4. great maine stones wrought above in conum by mannes hand. They be set in 3. several feldes at this tyme. The first is a 20 foote by estimation in higeth, and an 18. foote in cumpace. The stone towarde the ground is sum- what square, and so up to the midle, and then wrought with [* This memorandum is nearly gone in Leland's MS., the words in italics are supplied from Burton ; the other words still existed in Browne Willis's days. Stow omitted this note.] Hutton Conyers. b Northallerton. c ? Givendale, PART I 85 certen rude bol[tells] in conum. But the very [top is broken] Yorkshire, of a 3. or 4. foote [by estimation]. Other 2. of like shap w> R- stand in another feld a good but shot of: and the one of them is bigger then the other : and they stand within a 6. or 8. fote one of the other. The fourth standith in a several feld a good stone cast from the other ij., and is bigger and higher then any ef the other 3. I esteme it to the waite of a 5. waine lodes or more. Inscription could I none find yn these stones : and if ther were it might be woren owt : for they be sore woren and scalid with wether. I take to be trophea a Romanis posita in the side of Watheling-Streat, as yn a place moste occupied yn yorneying, and so most yn sighte. They stonde [all] as loking ab occiden\te in orientem}. Aldeburge a is about a quarter of a mile from Borough- fo. 102. bridge. This was in the Romaines tyme a great cite on Watheling-stret, caullid Isuria Brigantum : and was waullid, wherof I saw vestigia qucedam, sed tenuia. It stoode by south west on Ure ryver. The cumpace of it hath beene by estimation a mile. It is now a smaul village : and in it a paroch chirch, wher ly buried 2. or 3. knightes of the Aldeburges (Syr Guliam Aldeburg, Syr Richard Aldeburgh*), dwelling sumtyme in that paroch, whos heires yet remaine ther, but now men of meane landes. There be now large feeldes, fruteful of corn, in the very places wher the howsing of the town was; and in these feeldes yereley be founde in ploughing many coynes of sylver and brasse of the Romaine stampe. Th[ere hath bene] found also [sepultures, aqua duci\us> and \tessellatapavimenta : also spurres sytt with stones and many othar straunge things]. Ther is an hil in the side of the feld, wher the old toun was, caullid Stothart, as it had b[ene] a kepe of a [castle.] Gnaresburg b is a 3. or 4. miles from Aldeburgh, partely by pasture and corne and sum wood. [* These names are added in the margin.] • Aldbo rough. b Knaresborough. 86 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, I lefte a park on the lift hond a mile or I cam to Knarres- W. R. burgh. Ther be 2. parkes beside this that longith to Gnarresburgh, al be metely welle woddid. The toune self of Knarresburgh takith name of the rokky ground that it stondith on. The toune is no great thing and meanely buildid, but the market trier is quik. The castel stondith magnificently and strongely on a rok, and hath a very depe diche, hewing out of the rok, wher it is not defendid with the ryver of Nidde, that ther rennith in a deade stony botom. I numberid a n. or 12. towres [in the waull] of the castelle, [and one very fa] ire beside [in the second area. There longe 2. bridg]es of stone [to this towne, the] upper is* fo. 103. A little above Marche, but on the farther ripe of Nidde, as I cam, is a welle of a wonderful nature, caullid Droping welle. For out of the great rokkes by it distillith water con- tinually into it. This water is so could, and of such a nature, that what thing so ever faullith oute of the rokkes ynto this pitte, or ys caste in, or growith about the rokke and is touchid of this water, growith ynto stone : or els sum sand, or other fine ground that is about the rokkes, cummithe doune with the continualle droning of the springes in the rokkes, and clevith on such thinges as it takith, and so clevith aboute it and givith it by continuance the shape of a stone. There was ons, as I hard say, a conduct of stone made to convey water from this welle over Nid to the priory of Knaresburgh ; but this was decayed afore the dissolution of the house. A litle beneth Marche-bridge on the hither side of Ure, as I cam, I saw an old chapelle yn a rok hewen owte of the mayne stone. [The priory selfe of Knarresburgh is a 3. quarters of a mile benethe Marche bridge ripa citeriori or I cam over Nidde.] One Robert Flowr, sunne to one Tok Flour, that had beene 2. tymes mair of York, was the first beginner of this priory. He had beene afore a litle while a monk yn New- [* A line gone here before Stow's time.] PART I 87 minster-Abbay in Morpeth, forsaking the landes and goodes Yorkshire, of his father, to whom he was heir as eldest sunne, and desiring \V. R. a solitarie life as an heremite resortid to the rokkes by the ry ver of Nidde : and thither, apon opinion of sanctite of hym, resortid other : and then he institutid his companie in the sect of freres of the Order de Redemptione Captivorum, alias Sa. Maturing Trinitatis. Estoteville gave landes to this house, at such tyme as he lay at Knarresburgh : but wither Estoteville were Lord of Gnarresburgh, or had the custodie of it for the [king,] I canfnot] yet telle the [certente:] [Knarresburg now] longgith [to the Duchie of Lancaster. King John was ons, as I harde say, of an il wille to this fo. 104. Robert Flour : but yet after he was beneficial to hym and to his. Sum of the Floures landes at York was gyven to this priory, and the name of the Flowres remaynid onto late dayes yn York. The river sides of Nidde be welle woddid above Knarres- burgh for a 2. or 3. miles : and above that to the hedde al the ground is baren for the most part of wood and corne, as forest ground ful of lynge, mores and mosses with stony hilles. The forest from a mile beneth Gnarresburgh upward to very Bolton yn Craven is about a 20. miles yn lenght : and yn bredeth it is in sum places an viij. miles. The principal wood of the forest is decayed. [Knarresburge is a 12. miles from Yorke. Nidde goith into Ure corruptely there caullyd Ouse at Nunnemonk* a 14. myles as the watar rennithe from Gnarresburgh towne.] From Gnarresborow over Nid ryver almost al by wood a mile to Plumton,a wher is a park and a fair house of stone with 2. tourres longging to the same. Plumton is now owner of it, a man of fair land : and lately augmentid by wedding the doughter and heir generale of the Babthorpes. From thens passing a 2. miles by a stony soile, but sum- what by fruteful of corne and grasse, I saw Spofford b half a mile of on the lift hond : wher the Erie of Northumbreland [* Stow has Nunnmonk, the above is Leland's spelling, as shown by Hearne and Brown Willis. It refers to Nun Monkton. The three lines are quite gone now.] a Plompton. b Spofiorth. 88 LELAND'S ITINERARY Yorkshire, had a goodly lordship and manor place with a parke. The W. R. manor place was sore defacid in the tyme of the Civile Warre betwixt Henry the 6. and Edward the 4. by the Erie of Warwik, and Marquise Monteacute his brother, to whom, as I remember, the Percys landes were gyven. Thens to Wetherby a smaul market toun on a hille, wher I saw \crucem antiqui op\eris> a 3. or [4. miles by come,] pasture, [and sum woode.] fo. 105. Thens over a stone bridge on Warfe to [* Aberford] on Watheling-Streate a 6. "miles, and or ever I cam to this thorough fare I saw by the space of 2. or 3. miles the very playn crest of Watheling-Streat. Thens by the strait crest of Watheling-Streat a 3. miles or more, and then leving it on the righte hond I went to Brotherton (wher Thomas, sunne to King Edward the first, was borne, the quene by chaunce laboring as she went on hunting,) a 3. miles : and then by a causey of stone with divers bridges over it to dreane the low medow waters on the lift hand into Aire ryver about a mile to Fery-bridge,a wher the first Lord Fitzgualter of the Radecliffes was killid, flying from Cokbek-felde. Then over Fery-bridge of vij. arches, under the which ren- nith Aire. The thorough fare there is no great thing but metely wel buildid. Fery-bridge about half a mile from Pontfracte. [From Fery-bridge to Wentbridge . . . miles, and so to Dancaster . . . miles. I sawe by certaine miles or I cam to Dancaster b the very mayne crest of Wathelynge strete.] From Dancaster to Rosington bridge of tymbre a 3. miles, al by champain ground. Ther rennith a praty broke thorough this bridge, the heddes wherof risith of divers springes by west. Rosington c chirch and village is a quarter of a mile of apon an hillet. Notts. From Rosington to Blith d most by woody ground, part by corne, pasture, and medow, a 5. miles. There renne to brookes as I cam into the very toun of [* Blank in Leland, L.T.S. supplies.] * Ferrybridge. b Doncaster. c Rossington. d Blyth. PART I 89 Blith, the first that I cam over was the greatter, and cum- Notts, mithe thither from the weste : the other rennith hard by the utter houses of the towne ; and this, as they told me, was namid Blith. And, as I remembre, it is the very self water that cummith from Werkensop,a or els Werkensop-water rennith into it. Both thes waters mete togither a litle beneth Blithe [towne in the mjedowes, and gopth by Scrobyb mjilles a 2. miles [lower.] [The market towne] of Blithe is [pratily buildyd. In the priory at theste] ende of the [churche ar to be sene graves of noble-men.] I askid of a castelle that I hard say was sumtyme at Blith : fo. 106. but other answer I lernid not but that a litle or I cam ynto the toune ther apperith yn a wood sides token of an auncient building. About a mile beyond Blith I passid by a park caullid \Hodsak? *] wher Master Clifton hath a fair house. And a 2. miles farther much by hethy and then woddy ground I cam over a smaul broke with a litle stone bridge over it : and so strait into Werkensop, a praty market of 2. streates and metely welle buildid. There is a fair park hard by it : and the beginninges of a fair manor place of squarid stone yn the same. The olde castelle on a hille by the towne is clene downe and scant knowen wher it was. This toune, castelle and large park longgid first to the Lovetotes, then, as sum say, to one of the Nevilles. Then were the Furnivalx of certente owners there : and after the Talbotes. The priorie of the blak cha[nons] the[re] was a thing of [great buildinges, and a place of sepulture to the afore sayde noble men]. From Wirkensope I rode a longe by the pale that environith the great wood, caullid Roome-wood, by the space of 2. miles and more, and there I passid over a litle bridge, under the which rennith Wilebek- water. Wile hath 2. hedde springes, wherof the one risith not very far above Wilebek-abbay. [* In Burton's hand.] a Worksop. b Scrooby. « Hodsock. 90 LELAND'S ITINERARY Notts. The bigger risith farther of by west, and aoout Wilebek cum to one botom. The abbay of Wilebek a is aboute half a mile on the righte hond above the aforesaide bridge. One Waulley hath bought this wod of the king, it longgid, as I hard, to Werkensop Priory. From this bridge to Cukeney-village b about a mile : and ther cam doun a broke from west, resorting, as one saide, to Wilebek streme, or Wilebek to it. Thens a 2. miles by corne, wood, and pasture to Warsop c village, and there ran a bek ; and this, as the other doith, resortith to RurTord-streame. Thens to Maunsefeld,d a praty market toun of one paroche, by like ground a 3. miles : and there rennith in the midle of it a [rille, and in the bottom, as I rode out of the towne a praty broke risynge] west a 4. miles [of] and so it goith [to Cjlypeston e a [3. miles lojwer and [so to Rufford water.] fo. 107. Fundatio monasteriorum de Kirkham, Rivaulx & Wardona ;* & successio Dominorum de Ros. Ds. Walterus Espek miles strenuus duxit in ux. Adelinam, qutz peperit ei unicum nomine Walterum, qui posted lapsus equo cervicem fregit prope parvuam petrinam crucem versus Frithby. Turn Walterus ex parte Christum statuens heredem consilio Gulielmi Gartonensis rectoris avunculi sui erexit monaster. de Yorks.,E. R. Kirkham anno D. 1122. <5>° anno reg. Henrici I. 22. ibique statuit prcedictum Gulielmum primum Priorem, educatum videlicet in monasterium S. Oswaldi. Gualterus Espek dedit [* The three leaves of vol. i. of Leland's manuscript, originally numbered 107, 108, 109, had been cut out after Stow's, but before Hearne's time, and are now found bound up near the end of the MS. vol. viii., where they have been re-numbered as pages 79-84. Iceland himself refers to them in a side-note a little further on (see p. 97). They were consequently omitted by Hearne in 1710; but the editor of the second edition of his work (1744) restored them to their place in the text, as above, adding a further page from vol. viii. containing the names of houses of which Thomas, Earl of Rutland, was patron. Stow copied these leaves, including the list of names, in this place. ] » Welbeck. b Cuckney. ° Market Wars' p, <i Mansfield. e Clipstone. PART I 91 jus patronatus 7. ecdesiarum per ipsum appropriatarum monas- terio de Kirkham, 6° terras, redditus 6° possessiones ad summam mille 6° centum marcarum in comitibus Eboracetisi & Northumbriensi. Vixit Gualterus d fundatione monasterii de Kirkham 30. annis. Postea fundavit monasterium de Rievalk anno D, 1131. Yorks.,N.R. Deinde monasterium de War dona A°. D. 1136. Beds. Gualterus obiit sine liberis. Tres sorores Gualteri par\tite sunt hereditatem\. Haivisa ia. soror nupsit Gulielmo Bussy. Albreda 2. nupsit Nicholao Traily. Adelina 3. nupsit Petro Ros. Sed Gualterus dedit Adeline sorori sues inter cetera spedaliter advocationem de Kirkham 6° Rievalux. Gualterus vestem monachicam accepit in monasterio Rieval- lensi, ubi post biennium obiit : ibidem sepultus in ostio capituli 7. Id. Mart, anno D. 1154. [19. Steph.~\ Successio Dominorum de Ros. Petrus de Ros genuit ex Adelina Espek Robertum de Ros. Petrus de Ros sepultus Rievalli. Robertus de Ros duxit in uxorem Sibyllam de Worlonge, 6° genuit ex ea Everardum de Ros. Everardus accepit quandam Rosam in uxorem, 6° genuit Robertum de Ros dictum Fursan. Robertus dictus Fursan duxit in ux. Isabellam filiam regis Scot ice, (5^ genuit ex ea. Gul. de Ros. Robertus de Ros dictus Fursan levavit castrum de Helmesley, fo. 108. ^ de Wark> 6° Templariis dedit Ribeston, 6^ postea dimisit terras suas : <5^ dedit Gul. filio suo castrum de Helmesley cum pertinentiis 6^» advocat : monasteriorum de Kirkham, Rievalx 6° War don. Et dedit Roberto filio suo castrum de Werk cum pertinentiis 6° baronia in Scotia ad tenendum de Gul. fratre c5^ heredib. suis per servitium militare. Postea dictus Robertus Fursan factus est templar ius, 6° Lon- dini sepultus. Gul. de Ros duxit in uxorem Luciam, 6^» genuit Roberlum de Ros. Hie Gul. sepultus est in monasterio de Kirkham coram summo altar i. Robertus filius Gul. duxit in ux. Isabellam heredem dc 92 LELAND'S ITINERARY Daubeney, 6° genuit Gul. de Ros. Hie Robertus sepultus est apud Kirkham in tumba marmorea. Gul. de Ros duxit in ux. Matildam de [ Vd\ulx \]ieredeni\ medietatis terrarum Joannis de Vaulx, 6° genuit ex ea Gul. de Ros, 6° sepultus est in monasterio de Kirkham in tumba mar- morea ex parte boreali. Gul. filius Gul. duxit in ux. Marionem de Badelesmere, 6° genuit ex ea Gulielmum, Thomam, Margaretam 6° Matildam, 6° sepultus est apud Kirkham in mausoleo lapideojuxta magna altare ex parte australi. Gul. duxit in ux. Margaretam filiam Domini Radulphi Neville, qui moriebatur in terra sancta sine herede, 6° ibidem sepelitur. Thomas f rater Gul. successit, 6° duxit in ux. Beatricem filiam Radulphi comitis Stafford ; 6° genuit ex ea Joannem, Gulielmum, Thomam, Robertum, Elisabeth 6° Margaretam. Hie Thomas obiit apud Uffington, 6° sepultus est Rievalli. Joannes filius Thomcs duxit in ux. Mariam de Orbe, sororem comitis Northumbr. qui decessit sine herede masculo apud Cipres versus terram sanctam^ 6° sepultus est Rievalli. fo. 109. Gul. successit fratri suo Joanni, qui duxit in ux. Mar- garetam filiam Domini Joannis de Arundelle, 6° genuit Joannem, Thomam, Robertum, Gulielmum, 6° Richardum, Beatricem, Aliciam, Margaretam 6° Elisabeth. Hie Gul. obiit apud Belviderum * 1° d. Sept. anno D. 1314., 6° sepultus est ibidem in medio chori prioratus. Joannes successit Gul. patri 6° duxit in ux. Margaretam, filiam 6° heredem Philippi de Spenser: qui Joannes obiit in Francia sine herede de corpore suo ; cum quo obiit Gul. f rater ejus in vigilia Paschce anno D. 1421. qui Joannes sepultus est apud B elver um juxta pair em suum. Thomas successit fratri Gul. 6° duxit in ux. Alenoram filiam D\ Richardi de Bellocampo comitis Warwiri, ex qua genuit Thomam, qui natus est 9. die Septembris anno D. 1427. 6° anno Henrici VI. 6°. Hie Thomas habuit in ux. Philippam im filiam D*. Joannis de \Tiptote\ sorori comitis Wigornie [et heredis tertia partis terrarum suarum]. Thomas genuit ex hac Philippa [* The id in this word is written above the line ; in the next paragraph the word is uncorrected.] PART 1 93 Edmundum de Ros, Alenoram, Isabellam, Margaretam 6- Joannam. Thomas obiit apud castrum * .... anno D. 1461. Edmundus obiit sine prole anno D. 1508. 23. die mensis Octobr. 6* sepultus est in Ecclesia parochiali de Endefeld. Elenora ia filia Thomce de Ros nupsit Roberto Maners militi, 6° genuit Georgium, Edwardum, Elisabeth 6° Ceciliam. Georgius duxit in ux. Annam filiam Anna ducissa de Excester 6° Thomce Sellinger militis. Qu<z Anna ducissa fuit soror regis Edwardi 4*. Dictits Georg. genuit ex Anna Thomam, Oliverum, Anto- nmm, Richardum, Joannem, Elizabeth, Catarinam, Elenoram, Ceciliam, Annam. Georgius exist ens in bello cum Henrico 8. contra Francos accepit gravem infirmitatem, 6° obiit anno Di. 1513. sepultus \est Londini~\ in ecclesia monialium [de Haliwell^\ \Patronatus Abbat. 6° Prior. Thomcz comitis de Rutheland. vol. 8, Kirkham Prior. P- ^5- Rievalx Abbat. Wartre Prior, canon, or. S. Aug. Beauvoir Prior, monach. Frestan Prior, monach. Newsted Prior, monach. Irford Prior, monial. Domus Carmelitarum in Boston. Domus fratrum heremit. in Novo Castro. Eccl. Colleg. de Bolton in Alendale in Nortliumbr. Wardon Abbat. Pentaney Prior, or. S. Aug. Domus Carmel. in Blakeney. Suteley. Domus Carmel. in Cantebr. Domus fratrum Prczdic. in Linnel\ f Gumming out of the town of Maunsefelda withyn a litle fo. no. way I passid over the brooke that rennith yn the vale hard [* Blank in Leland.] [t See note to p. 90. Mansfield. 94 LELAND'S ITINERARY Notts, by it. This broke risith a 3. miles by west above the toun of Mauncefeld : and a 3. miles lower goith by Clypeston, as I harde. Soone after I enterid, withyn the space of a mile or lesse, ynto the very thik of the woddy forest of Shirwood,a wher ys great game of deere. And so I rode a v. myles in the very woddy grounde of the forest, and so to a litle pore streat a through fare at the ende of this wood. A litle or I cam to the ende of this woodde I left about a quarter of a mile on the right hond the ruines of Newstede,b a priory of chanons. By this Newstede rennith Line c ryver, that cummith after to Lineton-Abbay, and thens to Notingham, and a litle beneth Notingham ynto Trent. From the [thorough fare] sayde I roode ov[er a low ground lyke a more by the space of halfe a mile, and then cumming to highe ground, and somewhat] in sight by hilling I passid a mile, and then I roode by a mighty great park by the space almost of a 3. miles. This park is caullid Beskewood,d and longith to the castelle and lordship of Notingham. Thens I passid by ij. or 3. hilles by the mountenaunce of a 2. miles, and so to Notingham. Notingham e is booth a large toun and welle buildid for tymber and plaster, and standith stately on a clyminge* hille. The market place and streate both for the building on the side of it, for the very great widenes of the streat, and the clene paving of it, is the most fairest withowt exception of al Inglande. Ther be 3 paroches chirches [St. Mary, St. Peter, St. Nicholas} ; but the chirch of S. Mary is excellent, [new and unifo]rme yn work, and so [many fair wynldowes yn it that [no artificer can imagin]e to set mo ther. [Southeward fo. in. as to the] water side be great clifes and rokkes of stones, that be large and very good to build with, and many houses sette on the toppes of them : and at the botom of them be great [* Leland has clyninge, Stow read it clyming.} & Sherwood. b Newstead. c Leen. d Bestwood, * Nottingham. PART I 95 caves wher many stones hath bene diggid out for buildinges Notts, yn the toune, and these caves [be partly usyd for dwellynge howses], and partely for cellars and store houses. Ther hath beene 3. houses of freres,* as I remembre, whereof 2. stoode 'toward the west of the towne and not far from the castelle.f The towne hath be meately welle wallid with stone, and hath had dyvers gates ; much of the waul is now down, and the gates saving 2. or 3. There is no suburbe over the stone bridge of a I arches over Line on the south side of the toune. And loke as the towne and the [ground] that it stondith on and [that that is about it by] north is highe, [so all the grownd on] the south side [without the towne] is a playn low me[dow grownd where at rienne§] but litle [lins and Trent river]. I have written yn a smaul peace of papire certayne other notable thinges of Notigham. The castelle of Notingham stondith on a rokky hille as on the west side of the towne : and Line ri[ver]et goith by the rootes of it. There is [a great] likelihod that the castelle was buildid of stones taken owt of the rokke and the great diches of it. The base court is large and metly stronge. And a stately bridge is there with pillers bering bestes and giantes over the diche into the secund warde : the fronter of the which warde in the entering is exceding stronge with toures and portecoleces. Much part of the west side of this inner ward as the [h]aul and other thinges be yn [r]uines. The est side is stronge and well tourrid. And so is the south side. f0 II2 But the moste bewtifullest part and gallant building for lodgyng is on the northe side, wher Edward the 4. began a right sumptuus pece of stone work, of the which he clerely fmichid one excellent goodly toure of 3. hightes yn building, and brought up the other part likewise from the foundation [* Stow has in the margin, Gray and White Friars. ] [t S. John's Hospitall was withoztt the towne, Stow's margin.] [f Blank in MS.] [§ Burton (a) has rcne.} 96 LELAND'S ITINERARY Notts, with stone and mervelus fair ciimpacid windoes to layyng of the first soyle for chambers, and ther lefte. Then King Richard his brother as I hard ther forcid up apon that worke another peace of one lofte of tymber, making rounde wyndowes also of tymbre to the proportion of the aforesaid wyndoes of stone a good fundation for the newe tymbre windowes. So that surely this north part [is an ex- ceding fayre] pece of worke. The dungeon or kepe of the castel stondith by south and est, and is exceding strong 6° natura loci 6° opere. Ther is an old fair chapelle and a welle of a gret depthe. And there is also a choclea with a turret over it, wher the kepers of the castelle say Edwarde the thirdes band cam up thoroug the rok and toke the Erie Mortymer prisoner. Ther is yet a fair staire to go downe by the rok to the ripe of Line. There be diverse buildinges bytwixt this dungeon and the ynner court of the castelle, and ther goith also doune a stair ynto the grounde, wher Davy Kinge of Scottes, as the castel- lanes say, was kept as a prisoner. I markid in al 3. chapelles yn the castelle and 3. welles. The litle ryver of Line and [the] great strem of Trente cum fo. 113. nere together in the medowe on the south side of the town : and when any land waters cum doune, much of the vale and medowis ther be over flowen. The great streame of Trente and the great bridge over it with * ... arches of stoone is not past a ij. flite shottes from the bridge of Line hard on the south side of Notingham. Line ryver goith in the medowes a litle beneth Notingham ynto Trent. Derbyshire. Darby a is a xij. miles from Notingham, and at Sawlaferyb almost in the midle way is a stone bridge with a causey and many arches partely over the very gutte of Trent, and partely for cumming to bridg by the medoes for rysinges of the Trent. Notts. Bytuixt the bridge over Trent agayne Notingham onto Newark bridg that is xij. miles of [is] none, [nor any] from Newark to th[e mouth of Trent but passage all by ferris.] Leicester. From Notingham to Leircesterc xvj. miles. From Notingham to Beverd a xij. long miles. [* Blank in MS.] • Derby. b Sawley Ferry. c Leicester. d Belvoir. PART I 97 First I passid by low medowe and sum morisch grounde Notts, by the space of a 3. miles, and then by other 3. miles by an highe soile but not hilly, and about this 3. miles end I cam to a praty broke or ryveret caullid Myte,a that risith above that place a vj. miles or more by weste, and thens goith an eight miles lower into Trent not far above Newark-towne. And cumming nere toward Mite brooke, I lefte about a mile on the lifte honde \Aslacton\ * b village in Notingham- shire, wher Thomas Cranmere, Archebisshop of Cantorbyri, was born, and where the heire of the Cranmers a man scant of xl. mark-lande by the yeres [now dwellith^\ f Then passing a 2. miles by metely hygh and good soyle I cam to a villag caullid Thens 4. good miles to Bever, [pa]rtely by marsch, mefdowe, and pasture, and corn grounde. From Notyngham to Bever all by champaine J grownd in syte.] The castelle of Bellevoirec standythe yn the utter part fo. 114. that way of Leircestershir, on the very knape of an highe Leicester- hille, stepe up eche way, partely by nature, partely by working shire, of mennes handes, as it may evidently be perceyvid. Wither ther were any castelle ther afore the Conquest or no, I am not sure, but surely I think rather no then ye. Toterneius was the first enhabiter there after the Con- quest. Then it cam to Albeneius. And from Albeney to Ros. Of this descent and of the foundation of the priory in the village at the castelle foote I have writen a quire seperately.§ The Lord Ros toke King Henry the vj. parte agayn King Edwarde, wherapon the Lord Roses landes [stode] as con- fiscate, King Edward pre[vay]ling, and Believer Castelle [was put] in keping to the Lord Hasftinges], the which cumming thither apon a tyme to peruse the ground, and to lye in the castel, was sodenly repellid by Mr. Harington, a man of [* Leland and Stow left this blank.] [t Added by Burton.] [t Stow spells this champion.'] [§ Here Leland has a side-note, " Loke fol. oct. pracedenti" which takes us back to page 90, the account of the Ros family.] a Smite. b Aslocton. c Belvoir. H 98 LELAND'S ITINERARY Leicester- poure therabout, and frende to the Lord Rose. Wherapon the Lord Hastinges cam thither another tyme with a strong poure, and apon a raging wylle spoilid the castelle, defacing the rofes, and takyng the leades of them, wherwith they were al coverid. The Lord Hastinges caryed much of this leade to Ascheby de la Zouche, wher he much buildid. Then felle alle the castelle to mine, and the tymbre of the rofes onkeverid rottid away, and the soile betwene the waulles at the last grue ful of elders, and no habitation was there tyl that of late dayes the Erie of Rutland hath made it fairer then ever it was. It is a straunge sighte to se be how many steppes of stone the way goith up from the village to the castel. In the castel be 2. faire gates. And the dungeon is a fair rounde tour now turnid to pleasure, as a place to walk yn, and to se al the countery aboute, and raylid about the round [waull, and] a garden [plot] in the midle. fo. 115. There is a welle of a grete depth in the castelle, and the spring therof is very good. The Lorde Hastinges likewise spoiled Stoke-Dawbeney,a a goodly maner place of the Lorde Roses, . . . miles from Stanford, as I remembre, yn Rutheland,* and caryid part of it also to Asscheby de la Zouche. The vale of Bever, baren of wood, is large and very plentiful of good corne and grasse, and lyith in 3. shires, Leycester, Lincoln, and much in Notinghamshire. The Erie of Rutheland hath in exchaunge for other landes of the kinges Croxton-Abbay 2. miles ofj and a commaundery that longgid to S. Johns toward Newark, caullid the Egle, wher is a very praty manor place. But I gesse that it stondith low and foule. From Beavoire Castelle to Croxton b 2. miles, and from Croxton I roode a 6. miles farther into a litle through fare caullid f by good [pas]ture and corn groun[de, but all champaine] and litle woode. Then I rode a 6. mi[les farther by like] grounde, and there I enterid to the cawsey of Watheling-Streate0, that there goith betwixt [* Burton has written in the margin of Leland's MS. here, North- amptonshire.] [f Blank in MS.] a Stoke Albany. b Croxton Keyrial. c Ermine Street. PART 1 99 Ankester and Staunforde :a and thens a 3. mile to Castelle- Lincoln- forde-bridge b stil apon the great creste of Watheling-Streate, shire- by champaine ground, corn, and gras, but litle or no woode. Under Castelleford bridge of 3. arches of stone rennith a praty brooke. I can take it to be no other broke but Wasch, that cummith oute of Ruthelandshire, and not far beneth Staunford goith into Weland-ryver. From Castelford-bridge to Stanford a stil on the crest of Watheling-strete a mile. After that I passid out of Stanford I could not welle finde the creste of Watheling-Streate : but it went thens to Wedon in the streat, Touceter,c and, as I take it, to Stratford, Dunstable and S. Albanes. [From] Stanford to Coly-Weston d 2. [miles] and a half by Northants. champayn ground. [Fr]om Coly-Weston to Dene moste [by] chaumpaine ground, [corne] and gra[sse, 6. miles]. From Dene to Foderingey6 most by wood thorough a fo. 116. parte of Rokeingham-forest a 6. miles. From Foderingey to Undale/ a market toun, 2. miles. Thens thorough Thorp-watermil « to a village caullid* . . . . . . wher the king dynid in a meane house, a 4. or 5. [miles], al by chaumpain, good corn, and gresse. Thens a ix. miles to Layton h in Huntingdonshire by like Hunts. grounde. Thens to Higham-Ferrares by like grounde an 8. miles. Northants. And thens by like grounde a 6. miles to * wher Mr. S. John dwellith, in a right pratie manor place, motid, wher I saw in the paroche chirch an old tumbe with an image in the quire waulle. Sum think that it was one of the Breusis. for Brewsis wer ons [ow]ners of that manor. From thens to Be[df]ord by m[uch] like ground an 8. Bedford- [miles, but nere] to Bedford ther [was sum good wood.] shire. S. Paules in Bedeford is the principal chirch of the town, and was afore the Conqueste a college of prebendaries, and after ontyl the foundation of Newenham-Priory, scant a mile [* Blanks in MS.] a Stamford. *> Casterton. ° Towcester. d Colly Weston. « Fotheringay. * Oundle. 9 Thorp Waterville. h Leighton Bromeswold, ioo LELAND'S ITINERARY Beds, beneth Bedford, on Usea ryver. The prebendaries had their howses aboute the circuite of the chirch of S. Paule: of the which the names of 2. prebendes remayne, and houses longging to them, though theyr staulles be in Lincoln. Roisia, wife to Paganus de Bello Campo, translatid the college of the chanons irregulars onto Newenham,b a college of chanons regular. Simon de Bello Campo, sonne to Paganus and Rohisia, confirmid and performid the acte of his mother. He lyith afore the high altare of S. Paules Chirch in Bedeford with this epitaphie graven in bras and set on a flat marble stone : De Bello Campo jacet hie sub marmore Simon Fundator de Newenham. Paganus de Bello had the barony [of] Bedeford geven onto hym after the [Conjquest of King Wylliam. [Roi]sia, wife to Pagane, made the priorie of Chiksand,0 and there [was] she buried in the chapitre [hou]se. fo. 117. Cawdewelle-Priory a litefl] without Bedeforde, and a litle louer then it apon Use ripa dextra, was of the foundation of one of the Beauchampes also. And the barony of Bedforde, with the castelle of Bedford, as the place of the inhabitation of the Bewchaumpes, re- maynid in the name ontylle that Falcasius de Brent had the castelle and much rule there in John dayes and partely in Henry the 3. tyme. And as I remember I redde in one place that this pre- ferremen cam to Falcasius by a mariage. But after that Falcasius and his brethern rebbellid again King Henry the 3. he toke the castel of Bedforde, and threw it doun, gyving the soile therof to one of the Beauchampes, to whom it appertaynid by inheritaunce. At the laste the Beauchampes landes for lak of heires males [came] to 3. doughter [of] one of [the] Beauchaumpes wh[ere of the el]dest was maryfed to the Lord Mulbray]. The Lorde Latimer bouth the landes of the secund sister. She lyvid, as sum say, Calebs. The thirde was maried to one Straunge. And Straunges a Ouse. b Newnham. c Chicksand, PART I ioi part, for lak of heyre male, cam after onto 2. doughters, Beds, wherof Pigote marled the one, and Pateshulle the other. And a pece of Pateshul's parte is syns cum to S. John, the best of that name in Bedfordeshire. Boothe the hospitales in Bedeforde town were of the fundation of the townes men of Bedford. The townes men of late dayes for bringging their fee ferme of Bedforde from xl//. by the yere to xx/z. gave the title and patronage of one of the hospitales to Sir Reignald Bray : and now a late by that meanes it is brought into meere possession of the Lord Bray. From Bedeford to Castelle-Mille a 2. miles, partely by fo. 118. pasture and corne, and partely by * . . . A litle by weste from this mylle, upper on the ryver, be tokens wher a large castelle hath beene, Risingho-Castel; but there apperith no maner of part of building, but it is easi to se wher the area of the castelle was, and the great round hille wher the keepe or dungeon stoode is clene hole, and at this tyme there grouith many rugh busshes on it ; and there is a mighty stronge and usid borow for greys or foxes. And about a mile from thens, as the millar sayed, is in a champain large feld toward north a diche and an hille, wher be likelihod was sum pile or forteress; yet, as the prior of Newenham told me, it was in the way betwixt Bedford and Neodomus. S. Neotes. As far as I can lerne this castel by Castelle-Mille was the Lorde Beauchaumpes, Baron of Bedeford ; but when it fell totally f . . . ine I have not yet lernid. I now make conjecture rather that it was Espekes, founder of Wardon-Abbay in Bedfordeshire, and Rosses his heires. It was a peace of the landes of Warden [Abbey.] Mr. Gostewik is lorde [now bothe] of the castelle-mylle, and the castelle-garth, he bought it of the king. It was longging to the late suppressid abbay of Warden in Bede- fordeshire. The ryver of Husea againe the castelle brekith into 2. [* Blank in MS.] [f Read into rume.—L. T. S.] a Ouse. 102 LELAND'S ITINERARY Beds, partes, and closing agayne a title beneth the mylle makith an isleland. The lesser streame servith the mil. I passid first by a bridge of wood over this arme ; and by and by over the mayne streame of Use-ryver by a timber bridg. And heere I lernid of the millar that there was but another bridge of tymbre on Use at * betwixt the mylle and S. Neotes. After that I had passid over bothe these bridges I enterid onto sumwhat low ground, where were very fair medowes and pastures, and so Willington-village distant about half a mile from Castelle-Mylle. The village self of Willington is commodiusly set in a fair gravely ground and fair wood in sum places about it. It longgid to the Beauchaumpes barons of Bedeforde [and] sins fo. 119. it [came in partition to the Lorde Moulbray of Axholme. Mr. Gostewik beyng borne in Willingtoun boute this lorde- ship of the Duke of Northfolk now lyving, and hath made a sumptuus new building of brike and tymbre d fundamentis in it, with a conduct of water derivid in leade pipes. There was, not very far from the place wher now Mr. Gostewike hath buildid, an old manor place, wher in tymes paste sum of the Moulbrays lay for a starte. Now it is clene doune : but the place is notabely scene wher it was. Mr. Gostewike hath purchacid there beside Willington a v. or vj. lordeshippes mo. From Willington to Antehille-Castelle a xij. miles, almost al by chaumpayn grounde, part by corne, and parte by pasture, and sum baren hethy and sandy ground. About the castelle self and the toune of Antehille is faire wood. The castelle and town of Antehille a with diverse fair lord- shippes th[erea]bout longgid [to the L. Fannope, a man of great renowne in the raigns of Henry the v. and Henry the syxte.] This Lorde Fannope buildid this castelle as it is now stonding stately on an hille, with a 4. or 5. faire towers of stone in the inner warde, beside the basse-courte, of such spoiles as it is saide that he wanne in Fraunce. [* Blank in MS.] Ampthill. PART I 103 It apperith by the este wyndow in the chapelle withyn the Beds. castelle of Anthille that he maried yn a noble blood : as I remembre she was the Duches of Excestre ; it may chaunce that the manage of her was a great cause of the sumptuus building there. This Lorde Fannope lyith at the blake freres in London, as I have lernid, and his wife on the right hand of hym and a childe. How the Lorde Gray of Ruthin cam to this castelle and landes aboute it, I have hard these thinges folowing told for a verite. In the tyme of the civile war betwixt King Henry the [vi.] and King Edwarde the [iv. the]re was a [battaile] faught [hard without the south suburbes of Northampton.] The Lorde Fannope tooke totally King Henry's parte. fo- 120. The Lorde Gray of Ruthine did the same in countenance. But a litle afore the feeld he practisid with King Edward, other saying that he had a title to the Lorde Fannopes landes at Antehil and there aboute, or depraving hym with false accusations so wrought with King Edwarde, that he with al his strong band of Walschemen felle to King Edwardes part, apon promise that if Edward wan the feelde he shaul have Antehil and such landes as Fannope had there. Edwarde wan the feelde, and Gray opteinid Antehille cum pertinentiis : and stil encreasing in favor with King Edwarde was at the laste made by hym Erie of Kente. But wither the Lord Fannope were slayn at [this] feelde [or] no I am not sure. The market town of [Antehill] is praty and welle fafvoridly buildyd, and is a quarter of a mile] distant from the castelle : part of it standith on [a] hille, but the most and the best parte in a valley. There rennith a broket, as I remember, by the est part of the towne. From Antehill to Dunestaple a a x. miles, or more. First I passid partely by wooddy ground and enclosures, but after moste parte by champaine grounde, and aboute a 2. miles from Dunestaple by est I toke thorough a fair uplandisch a Dunstable. 104 LELAND'S ITINERARY Hertford- toune caullid * and thens to Mergate al shire. j^y chaumpaine, but for the moste parte fertile of corne, a vj. miles. Mergate a was a nunnery of late tyme, it standith on an hil in a faire woode hard by Watheling-Streate on the est side of it. Humfrey Boucher, base sunne to the late Lorde Berners, did much coste in translating of the priorie into a maner place : but he left it nothing endid. Ther is a litle south of the priorie a long thorough fare fo. 121. on Watheling-Streate meately welle buildid for low housing. About the midle of this town I passid half a mile by hilly ground as in the beginning of Chilterne, and ther I saw in a praty wood side S. Leonardes on the lifte hand, scant half a mile of toward north weste. Wher of late tyme was a priorie of nunnes. Master Page the knight hath it now in ex- chaunge for landes of his in Sutherey b about the quarters of Hampton-Courte. Master Page hath translatid the house, and now much lyith there. So forthe by Chiltern-hilles and woddes a 4. miles and a half to * [? Gaddesden] wher the Lorde of Darby hath a praty maner place of tymbre. And or I cam to this village I rode over a litle brookec that cummith not very far of out of Chilterne-hiflles] and [resortyth] to Langeley wh[ere the friars] were dwelling. Thens by Chiltern-hilles and baren, wooddy, and feme ground for the moste parte, the soile waxing chalky and flinty, as al Chiltern ys, a 3. [miles] f to Barkhamstede. Wher is an old large castelle in a roote of an hille stonding sum what low, and environid with a mote, to the which, as I coulde percey ve, part of the water of the ryver there hard by doth resorte. I markid dyverse towers in the midle warde of the castelle, and the dungeon hille. But to my sighte it is much in ruine. The house of Bonehomes, caullid Asscheruge,d of the fundation of Edmunde, Erie of Cornewale, and owner of Berckhamstede-Castel, is about a mile of, and there the king [* Blanks in MS.] [t No blank in MS.] * Markyate Street. b Surrey. c Gade R. d Ashridge. PART I 105 lodgid. After that I had veuyd the castel, I passid over the Herts, ryver wher as is a bridge of wood. This ryver cummith by northe-west from Penley, a place yn Chiltern a 3. miles of, and so renning by the est ende of Barkhamstede towne goith fo. 122. doun a xij. miles southwarde to the more water about the quarters of Richemannesworthe. Berkhamstede is one of the best markette townes in Hert- fordeshire, and hath a longe streate metely welle buildid from the north to the south : and another, but sumwhat lesser, from the west to the est, where the ryver rennith. The chirch is in the midle of the town. In the botom of the ryver of eche side be very faire medowes. Thens I passid by hilly, woddy, and much baren ground to Cheynes a v. miles of. Bucks. And or I cam very nere Cheneys a I passid over a little brooke,b and even in the valley by Cheineys over another, and [they resorte] aboute Richeman [sworth0 to] the moored wa[ter.] The olde house of the Cheyneis is so translatid by my Lorde Russel, that hath that house on the right of his wife, that litle or nothing of it yn a maner remaynith ontranslatid : and a great deale of the house is * even newly set up made of brike and timber : and fair logginges be new erectid in the gardein. The house is within diverse places richely paintid with antique workes of white and blak. And there be about the house 2. parkes, as I remembre. The maner place stondeth at the west ende of the paroche chirche. In the paroche on the northe side of it, as in a chapelle, be 2. tumbes of the Chaynes [lorjdes of the manor ther, and [the] smaul [vil]lage bering their name. [Fr]om Cheyneis I passid much [go]od pasture and corne ground fa pratie uplandisch town in a botom fo. 123. v. miles of. And thens a v. miles stil for the most parte on a mory [* Leland wrote in by mistake.] [t Blank in Leland.] Chenies. b Chess R. c Rickmansworth. d Colne R. io6 LELAND'S ITINERARY Berkshire, ground like Hundeslaue a hethe, to the which level by like- lihood it streachith ; and thens by sum enclosid and woddy grounde a 3. miles to Windelesore.b From Windelesore by a 3. mile most be wood and enclosid pastures, leving Cheortesey c a mile of on lifte hand. Where is a goodly bridg of timbre over the Tamise newly repaired. And thens a 2. miles and more in faire open and levelle medow ground, wher I saw over the Tamise, Ankerwike, of late tyme a priorie of nunnes, and aboute an half mile lower Middlesex. I passid over the Tamise by Stanes-bridge.d And thens most by champai[ne] and corne ground . . . . . . pasture to H[ampton Courte 6. miles. And about halfe a myle a this syd it is Hampton village on the Thamise syde.] a Hounslow. b Windsor. c Datchet seems to be the place here referred to; Chertsey (Surrey) is many miles from Windsor, towards Leland's right hand, and south of Staines. d Thames, Staines. PART II 10; II.* Quinla die Mali Anno D. 1542^ FROM London to New Brentford 8. miles. There is a fo. i. bridge apon Brent ryveret of 3. arches, and an hospital Middlesex, buildid with brike on the farther ende of it. From Brentford to Hundeslawe 2. miles. There was in the west ende of the toune an house of freres of the ordre of the tile f of the Trinite. There rennith a lande water thorough the hethe of Hunde- slaw a as a drene to the hole hethe, that is of a great cumpace, and I passid by a bridge of tymbre over it. From Hundeslaw to Longeforde b a v. miles. A litle beyond this village is a bridge of tymbre at the which the mille water of Langford breking out above yn the medowes doth mete with one of the 2. greate principale Columts flu. armes that brekith out of Colne brooke. Colunbroke, This arme, as one told me, brekith out of Colne or ever it cum by the ende of Uxbridge, and metith not very far beneth Langford bridge with the principal streme of Colne. A litle beyond Langford bridge is a bridge of wood, under the which the principal streame of Colne ryver rennith, and thens more then a mile goith into Tamise by Stanes chirch a litle above Stanes bridg apon the Tamise. Coleham the Erie of Darby's house stondith on the hither side of this streame about a mile above the bridge. From this bridge toColebrok bridge of tymbre about a mile. Al the ground from a mile or more a this side Langford to [* Leland's MS., vol. ii. ; Stow's copy, vol. iii., fol. 1-35 (old num- bering).] [t Stow heads his copy of this volume with the following : " 1542, Comentaria Angliae, John Layland. Of late writen by John Stowe in Anno 1576. Lib. I."] [J Title.— Stow.] a Hounslow. & Longford. io8 LELAND'S ITINERARY Middlesex. Colebrok bridge is al low pasture ground, and at rages of rayne by rising of the ryver muche overflowen. Under Colebrooke bridge of tymbre rennith the secund of the 2. principale armes of Cole ryver, and this to my estima- tion is the lesser of the 2. It breketh owt of the principale Bucking- streame a 2. miles above Colebroke toun yn a mooreisch hamshire. grounde about a mile lower then Uxbridge toun. Uxbridge 3. miles from Colebrook toune. This arme rennith by it self about a mile and a half beneth Colebrook toun into the Tamise a litle above Ancrewike, wher was a priory of nunnes. Colebrook a toun is a 2. miles from Stanes.b The toune of Colebrok is set on eche side of the ryver of Cole, but the far greatter part of it is on the west side of the ryver : and there is a chapelle of brike made of late dayes. The paroche chirch is a mile of. fo. 2. From Colne brooke to a place wher I passid over Burne ryveret a 4. or 5. miles. This water risith out of morisch spring on the lifte hond as I roode from Stok c wher the Erie of Huntendun lyith : and, as I gesse, goith by Burneham and about Eiton College toward the Tamise. A 2. or 3. miles beyond the passage over Burne I cam to Berkshire. Maidenhed bridge of tymbre apon the Tamise. A litle above the bridge ripa citeriori Tamesis I saw a cliffy ground as hanging over the Tamise and sum busschis groinge on it. I conjectid that ther had beene sum site of an auncient building. There is great warfeage of timbre and fier wood on the west ende of the bridge, and this wood cummith out of Barkshir, and the great woddis of the forest of Windelesore,d and the great Frithe.1 Heere mark that as much grounde as lyith bytwixt the arme of Colne, that goith thoroug Colebroke toun, and the bridge of Maidenhed2 is yn Bukkinghamshir; beyond is Barkeshire. The toun of Maidenhed stondith a praty distance from the Tamise side, and is meately welle buildid. 1 Fruticea sylva, angl. Frithe. [Marginal note.] 2 Maidenheuedy antiq. nom. South Ailington. [Marginal note.] a Colnbrook. b Staines. ° Stoke Poges. d Windsor. PART II 109 The south side of the toune is yn the paroche of Bray. Berkshire. The north side is in the paroch of [Cookham].* From Maidenhedde toun a 2. miles by narow wooddy way to the Frithe. And so thorough the Frithe 3. miles and more. Then to [Twiford]* a praty tounelet a 2. miles. At the west ende of this tounlet rennith Loden a praty pyver, and so brekith out in armes that therby I passid over 4. bridgis. Thens a mile and an half to Sunning," an uplandisch toune, but sette on a fair and commodius grounde. The Tamise rennith under it in a plesant vale. I markid no very great antiquite in the chirch; it is im- propriate onto the decanerie of Saresbyri. In the presbyteri is one Fitton an esquier buried. In the south isle be 2. or 3. Vouesses buried, kinswomen to Bisshop of Saresbyri. In the north isle be 2. of the . . . f There is an old chapelle at the est end of the chirch of fo. 3. 5. Sarik, whither of late tyme resortid in pilgrimage many folkes for the desease of madnes. The Bisshop of Saresbyri hath had at Sunning afore the Conquest an auncient maner place, and hath be lordes there. And yet remainith a fair olde house there of stone, even by the Tamise ripe, longging to the Bisshop of Saresbyri : and therby is a fair parke. This place is in Barkeshir 3. miles above Henley. From Sunning to Reading 2. miles. There is a park cumming into Reading toun longging to the late monasterie there. There is no maner of token that ever the toun of Reading was waullid; yet it is a very auncient toun, and at this tyme the best toun of al Barkshire. There was a castelle in the Saxons tyme in this towne : and the name of Castelle-Streat yet remaynithe, lying from est to west to passe to Newbyri : but I could not perceive or clerely lerne wher it stoode. But [* Cookham and Twiford, added by Hearne, both blank in the MS.] [t Blank in Leland.] a Sonning. no LELAND'S ITINERARY Berkshire, by al lykelihod at the west-ende of the Castelle-Streat : and, as sum think, about the place of execution. It is very likely that a peace of the abbay was buildid of the mines of it. Peraventure it stoode wher thabbay was. S. Edwarde the Martyr's mother-yn-law for penaunce buildid, as I have redde, a monasterie of nunnes yn Reading. There is a constant fame that this nunnery was wher S. Maryes, a paroche chirch is now yn Reading. King Henry the first making an abbay at Reading of blak monkes suppressid this house, as I hard, giving the landes thereof to his abbay. But for more certente know whither the old nunnery stoode not yn the place wher the abbay of Reading stondith ? And whither S. Maries were not of a newer foundation ? On the north side of the Castelle-Streat was a late a fair house of Gray Freres. In the toune be 3. paroche chirchis. S. Giles a this side Kenet ryver : Sainct Maries, and S. Laurence beyond Kenet. fo. 4. S. Maries is as the principal paroche of the toun for auncientnes : and standith in the hart of it. S. Laurence stondith by west hard by cumming yn at the principal gate of thabbay. West north west of S. Laurence chirch was an almose house of poore sisters by al lykelihod of the foundation of sum abbate of Reading : and remaynid ontyl such tyme one Thorne Abbate of Reading suppressid it in King Henry the vij. dayes, and gave the landes of it onto the use of the almoner of his abbay. But Henry the vij. cumming to Reading, and asking what old house that was, thabbate told hym, and then the king wyllid hym to convert the house self and the landes in pios usus. Wherapon thabbate desirid that it might be made a grammar-schole, and so it was. One Wylliam Dene, a riche man and servant in thabbay of Reading, gave 200. markes in mony toward the avaunce- ment of this schole : as it apperith by the epitaphie on his grave in the abbay chirch of Reading. The ryver of Kenet cummith thorough the midle of Read- ing toun, but devidid principally into 2. partes, wherof the principal streame cummith thorough a great wood bridge in the south side of the toune. PART II in The arme that breketh out of Kenet is caullid communely Berkshire, about the quarters of the toune the Halowid brooke, and brekith out of the principal streame of Kenet up above the toune by west south west aboute the Bere, wher thabbat of Reading had a fair manor place of bryke, and so cumming doune by medowes ynto Reading toune passith thorough a peace of thabbay clensing the filth of it, and a litle lower joinith againe with the great streame : and a litle lower Kenet hole streame goith into Tamise ryver. So that Tamise river cummith within half a mile by est north est of Reading. In the vale of the toune of Reading, wher the 2. armes of Kenet renne nere togither, I markid diverse armelettes breking out of the 2. streames and making mediamnes, over the which fo. 5. be dyverse bridges of wood. And these waters be very commodius for diers, welle occupied there; for the toune chiefly stondith by clothyng. From Reading to Causeiham,a shortly caullid Causham, aboute half a mile, wher is a great mayne bridge of tymbre over the Tamise, wher I markid that it restid most apon fundation of tymbre, and yn sum places of stone. Toward the north end of this bridge stondith a fair old chapelle of stone on the right hond, pilid in the fundation for the rage of the streame of the Tamise. Ther is no bridge on the Tamise upward betwixt this and Walingford, distant about a 10. miles of. And byneth this Causham bridge to Henley five miles, and a half lower is first Sunning bridge of tymbre, and Grat-Marlaw-bridge. Bisham Priorie in Barkshir on the Tamise a 3. miles above Maidenhed. Hurley apon the Tamise, a celle to Westminstre, a mile above Bisham. Litle-Marlaw,b wher the priorie of nunnes was, a 2. miles Bucks, above Maidenhed, stonding in Bukinghamshir. Great-Merlaw,c wher the [bridge] * of timbre is over the Tamise, a mile above it. Medmenham, a celle to Woburn in Bedfordshir, a mile above Bissham as the Tamise goith in Bukinghamshir. [* Leland omitted bridge; the word is interlined in Burton's hand.] a Caversham. b Little Marlow. c Great Marlow. ii2 LELAND'S ITINERARY Oxfordshire. Beyond Causham bridge is Caushama villag in Oxfordshir. Thens I rode a v. miles or more al by great wooddes. And thens by chaumpaine hilly ground a 4. miles to Ewelm, an uplandisch village. Ewelme was the inheritance of the Chaucers. Thomas Chaucer the last heire male owner of it is buried yn an high marble tumbe in a fair chapelle in the paroch fo. 6. chirch of Ewelm, on the southside of the quier with this epitaphie : Hie jacet Thomas Chaucer armiger, quondam dominus istius villa, 6° Patronus istius ecclesia : qui obiit 18. die mensis Novembr: anno D. 1434. Et Matildis uxor ejus, qua obiit 28. die mensis Aprilis Anno D. 1436. Sum say, that this Chaucer was a marchant man, and bout a 1000 li. landes by the yere, and that wollesakkes be yn Ewelm in token of marchaundise. And menne say like- wise, that he mindid the fundation of the hospitale of Ewelme, and also the hospitale by Duningtoun-castelle. But William Duke of Southf [oik] did build them booth, eche pore man ther having xiiij.d. by the weeke. Alice, doughter and heire to Thomas Chaucer and Matilde, tooke to husband William de la Pole Duke of Southfolk : the which for love of her and the commodite of her landes fell much to dwelle yn Oxfordshir and Barkshir wher his wifes landes lay. This William translatid and encreasid the manor place of Ewelme. I think that Ewelme tooke name of a great poole afore the maner place and elmes grouing about it. Ewelme paroche chirch a cumly and new peace of work stonding on an hille was lately made by William Duke of Southfolk and Alice his wife. William was slayn, and Alice supervivid, and after was by- ried yn the paroche chirch of Ewelme on the south side of the high altare in a riche tumbe of alabastre, with an image in the habite of a woves crounid lying over it, and having this epitaphie on it : Orate pro anima Serenissimce Principissa Alicia DUCISSCR icZ) hujus ecclesice, patroncz, & prima fundatricis hujus a Caversham. PART II 113 elemosynarta. qua obiit 20. die mensis Maij, anno Di. 1475. Oxon. liter a Dominicali A. The pratie hospitale of [xiij] * poore men is hard joynid to the west ende of Ewelm paroche chirch : and much after the building of the vicars houses at Windesore yn a circle. In the midle of the area of the hospitale is a very fair welle. The master or provost of the almose house hath ther a praty lodging, every poore man hath i4d. a weke. I redde these thinges folowing in a table in Ewelm chirch : Pray for the soules of John Duk of Southfolk, and Elizabeth his wife. This John was sun and heire to William and Alice. John de la Pole Duk of Southfolk had by Elizabeth [Johnft fo. 7- Erie of Lincoln, Edmund after Duk of Southefolk, Richard, William : and . . . % that was at scholar yn Gunvile- Haul a in Cambridge, and lyith buried at Baberham.b The maner place of Ewelme is in the valley of the village : the base court of it is fair, and is buildid of brike and tymbre. The inner part of the house is sette with in a fair mote, and is buildid richely of brike and stone. The haul of it is fair and hath great barres of iren overthuart it instede of crosse beames. The parler by is exceding fair and lightsum : and so be al the lodginges there. The commune saying is that Duk John made about the beginning of King Henry the vij. tymes most of the goodly buildinges withyn the mote. There is a right fair parke by the manor place. From Ewelm to Hasely a v. miles by chaumpaine ground sumwhat plentiful of corne, but most layid to pasturage. Haseley is thus dividid into Grete-Haseley, Litle Haseley, Lechefordc and Ricote.d Great Haseley was of aunciente tyme a lordship longging by many descentes to the Pyperdes, whos maner place was [* Leland left the figure blank, apparently Stow did the same, but a hand of seventeenth century filled it in as above, in blacker ink than Stow's writing (perhaps Mr. Thynne ; see notes on next page).] [t A blank in Leland.] [t Blank in Leland.] Gonville Hall. b Babraham. c Latchford. * Rycote. I ii4 LELAND'S ITINERARY Oxon. there vvher now is the ferme place by the chirch longging to Windesor college. These Piperdes were men of fair possessions, and the name of them as in the principal maner florishid onto Edward the thirde dayes, about the which tyme Piperdes maner place and the patronage of the benifice of Haseley was gyven to the college of Windesore. The armes of Piperd apere yn the est window of the fair chauncelle of Haseley chirch. fo. 8. Litle Haseley, wher Master Baretine* hath a right fair mansion place, and marvelus fair walkes topiarii opens, and orchardes, and pooles, holdith, as I lernid, of the maner of Piperdes by knight service. Lacheforde about the beginning of Edward the thirdes tyme was parte of the Piperdes landes. Then it chauncidf for a younger sun of Piperdes of Haseley to do so valiauntly in batelle agayn the Scottes that he was made knight : and having no lande, bycause that his elder brother was heire, desirid to have sum smaul portion of land ; wherapon his father gave hym Lacheford to hold by knight service of the maner of Piperdes in Great Haseley. The stook;}: of this yong Piperd knight remaynid in Lacheford onto 80. yeres ago : when the last of these Piperdes lefte a doughter and heire, that was maried to one Lenthaul, a gentilman of Herefordshir, whos sunne now dwellith in Lacheforde. Ricote longid to one Fulco de Ricote. After it cam to one Quatermains. The house of the Quatermains in Oxfordshir hath beene famose and of right fair possessions. Their chief house was at Weston by Ricote, wher Mr. Clerk now dwellith. [* The antiquary Francis Thynne wrote three notes in the margin ol Stow's copy of this leaf. Opposite Baretine he put " Sir William Barantyne."] [i Mistaken, as I canne prove by the petygre, gathered out of the old evidence of the Pipardes by myne owne knowledge. — [Signed] Thyn:] [£ The last of the Pipards, beinge Richard Pipard of Lecheford Esquire, lyved in 9. H. 5. and had issue one daughter and heyre Jane, maried to John Badby Esquier, who had issue his daughter and heyre Katherine, maried to William Lenthall of Lenthall Starkar in Hereford- shyre, whiche came to dwell at Lacheford, of whome came Williame Lenthall Esquier now lyving of reverent age in this yere 1584.— Thynne.] PART II ti5 And Shirburne withyn a mile of Wathelington a market,* Oxon. wher is a strong pile or castelet, longid to Quatremains : sins Fowler : and by exchaunge now to Chaumbrelein of Oxford- shir. About King Henry the vj. dayes dyvers brethren dyed of the Quatremains one after another, and by a great onlykeli- hod al the landes descendid to one Richard, the yonggest of the brethern, that was a marchant of London, and after custumer there. This Richard had a servant caullid Thomas Fowler, his clerk, a toward felaw that after was chauncelar of the duchy of Lancastre. Richard Quatremains bare great favor to this Thomas. fo. 9. Richard was god-father to Thomas sunne, and namid hym Richard Quatermains Fowler. Richard Quatermains lay at Ricote : and caussid Thomas Fowler to ly at Westun. Richard Quatermains made Richard, Thomas Fowler sunne, heir of most part of his landes, bycause he had no children. Richard Quatermains godfather to Richard Fowler made a right goodly large chapelle of ease hard without the manor place of Ricote, and foundid ther 2. chauntre prestes to sing perpetually for his soule, enduing the cantuaries with good landes : and made a fair house for the prestes therby. This fundation was begon in Henry the 6. dayes : and endid yn Edward the 4. tyme. This Richard foundid also a cantuarie in Tame b paroche chirche a 2. miles from Ricote, wher he in a chapelle is buried undre a marble stone. This Richard foundid ther also an hospitale by Tame chirche endowing it by landes. Richard Fowler heir to Quatremains was a very onthrift, and sold al his landes leving his children ful smaul lyvinges. Syr John Heron, treasorer of the chaumbre to Henry the [* Leland first wrote "toward Stoken chirch," then struck through " toward Stoken," but left " chirch," — evidently a slip of his pen, as he interlined the words "withyn — market."] a Watlington. * Thame. n6 LELAND'S ITINERARY Oxon. vij. and the viij. boute the reversion of the lordship of Ricote, and Giles his sunne possessid it a while. Giles Heron wise in wordes, but folisch yn deades, as Syr Richard Fowler was, sold Ricote to John Willyams now knighte. fo. 10. From Haseley to Miltoun & village half a mile. At this place, as I hard say, was many yeres syns a priorie of monkes : a selle, as one told me, to Abbingdon. The house of the priorie was by likelihod wher the farmer's house is now hard by the chirch yard. For ther appere fundations of great buildinges. Sum say that Mounseir de Louches house was wher the farmer's house is. In the chirch of Miltun is an highe tumbe of fre stone with the image of a knight and a lady, with an epitaphie in Frenche, declaring that Richard de Louches chivalier and Helene his wife ly buried there. The voice ther goith that Louche had the priorie land gyven hym. Louches landes cam to heires generales. Of later tymes Davers had this lordship of one Syr Regnald Bray boute it of Davers. The late Lord Bray sold it to Dormer Mair of London. Ther is a prebend land in Miltun longging to Lincoln. The Bisshop of Lincoln is patrone of the chirch. There joynith onto Great-Miltun, Litle-Miltoun, and there is a chapelle of ease dedicate to S. James. From Haseley to Chisilhampton b (vulgo Chisiltun) by plaine ground fruteful of corne and grasse, but baren of wood as al that angle of Oxfordshir is, 3. miles. Here is passid over 3. litle bridges of wood, wher under wer plaschsy pittes of water of the overflowing of Tame ryver, and then straite I rode over a great bridge under the which the hole streame of Tame rennith. Ther were a 5. great pillers of stone, apon the which was layid a timbre bridge. Thens to Drayton village, longging a late to Dorchestre Abbay. Thens a mile to Dorchester. a Great Milton. b Chiselhampton. PART II 117 In the toun of Dorchestre I markid these notable thinges. Oxon. The abbay of chanons, wher afore the Conquest was a bisshopes sete. Remigius translatid it to Lincoln. Alexander Bisshop of Lincoln erected there an abbay of blak chanons. Yet the chirch berith the name of the pre- bend chirch. There was buried, as it is said, the bodie of S. Birine bisshop there. And there yet remainith the image of free stone that lay fo. n. on the tumbe of Bisshop ^Eschwine, as apperith by the in- scription. There be buried in the quier beside divers abbates a knight on the south side with an image crosse leggid, whos name is there oute of remembrance. There lyith at the feete of hym one Stoner sumtyme a juge (as it apperith by his habite) [in the raigne of K. E. 3.] There lyith a knight on the north side of the quier, a knight whom the late abbate tooke to be one of the Segraves, the image was of alabastre. But after the abbate told me that he hard of late one say that there was one Holcum a knight buried. In the body of the chauncelle afore the quier doore lay a gentilman caullid Ways. Ther ly in south isle of the quier 3. of the Draitons, gentilmen, one hard by another, under plaine marble stones. Mr. Barentine hath part of these Draitons landes. The[r] lyith at the hed of thes Draitons one Gilbert Segrave a gentilman, under a flat marble. The body of the abbay chirch servid a late for the paroche chirch. Syns the suppression one a great riche man, dwelling in the toun of Dorchestre, bought the est part of the chirch for 140. poundes, and gave it to augment the paroch chirch. The toun of Dorchestre was sore defacid by the Danes. Of old tyme it was much larger in building then it is now toward the south and the Tamise side. There was a paroche chirch a litle by south from the abbay chirch. And another paroch chirch more south above it. There was the 3. paroch chirch by south weste. n8 LELAND'S ITINERARY Oxon. In the closis and feeldes that lye southly on the toun that now standith be founde numismata Romanorum of gold, silver, and brasse. The bisshop's palace, as is * saide ther, was at the toune's end by north west, wher [yet] f appere fundations of old buildinges : and there as yet be kept the courtes. The ryver of Tame cummith first by the est ende of the toune : and then by the south side passing thoroug a very faire bridge of stone a litle witoute the toune. Gumming from Wallingford to Dorchester the toun standith ulter. ripa Tames. The bridg is of a good lenghth : and a great stone causey is made to cum welle onto it. There be 5. principale arches in the bridge, and in the causey joining to the south ende of it. fo. 12. Tame and Isea metith aboute half a mile beneth Dorchestre bridg in the medowis. From Dorchester to the fery over the Tamise about a mile. Here the hither ripe by north is low and medow ground. The south ripe ys high al alonge like the long bak of an hille. Berks. From the fery to Walingford a mile by marvelus fair champain and fruteful ground of corne. The toun of Walingefordeb hath beene a very notable thing and welle waullid. The diche of the toun and the crest wheron the waulles stoode be yet manifestely perceyvid, and begin from the castelle going in cumpace a good mile and more, and so cummith to Walingford bridg a large thing of stone over the Tamise. There remayne yet the names of these streates emong other : Tamise-streat, Fische-streate, Bred-streat, Wood- streat, Goldsmithes-row. And by the patentes and donations of Edmunde Erie of Cornewaul and Lord of the Honor of Wallingeford[/V<2//m?//&] that ther wer 14. paroch chirchis in Walingford. And ther be men yet alyve that can shew the places and cemiteries [* Leland has it for «.] [f Leland has it, Stow reads yet.] a Isis. b Wallingford. PART II 119 wher yn the al stoode. At this tyme there be but 3. poore Berks, paroch chirches in the town. Ther was a priory of blake monkes, a celle to S. Alban, suppressid by Thomas Woulsey cardinale, standing hard withyn the west gate of Wallingford. The toun and the castelle was sore defacid by the Danes warres. Yet they meatly reflorichid in the tyme of Richard King of Romaines and Erie of Cornewaulle, brother to King Henry the 3. This Richard did much cost on the castelle. The castelle yoinith to the north gate of the toune, and hath 3. dikis, large and deap, and welle waterid. About ech of the 2. first dikis, as apon the crestes of the ground cast out of [them],* rennith an embatelid waulle now sore yn ruine, and for the most part defaced. Al the goodly building with the tourres and dungeon be withyn the 3. dike. There is also a collegiate chapel emong the buildinges fo. 1 3. withyn the 3. dike. Edmund Erie of Cornewale, sunne to Richard King of the Romains, was the first founder and en- dower of this college. Prince Edwarde, as one told me, the Blak, augmentid this college. There is a decane, 4. prestes, 6. clerkes and 4. choristers. the late decane afore Dr. London1 that now is buildid a fair steple of stone at the weste ende of the collegiate chapelle, to making wherof he defacid, as it is said, withoute licens a peace of the kinges lodging, joyning on the est ende of the chapelle. 1 This is the same Dr. London that was Warden of New-College^ and author of the scandalous report of William of Wickhanfs being a bastard^ •which hath been followed by a late author in a certain note (not less scandalous) to the first vol. of " the Complete History of England " (as 'tis stytd} of which I have taken notice in the IVth. and VIIth. vol. of this work. You may see more of Dr. London in col. 660. of Vol. I. of "Athena Oxon." — Hearne. [* The phrase written by Leland runs : " apon the crestes of the creastes of the ground cast out of." He appears to have made a repe- tition and omitted a word, as suggested above. Stow, too, strikes out the repetition.] 120 LELAND'S ITINERARY Berks. The decane hath a fair lodging of tymbre withyn the castelle : and to it is yoinid a 'place for the ministers of the chapelle. From Walingford to Makeneya in Barkshir a good mile. . Mr. Molynes hath a pratie manor place of brike ther. Court*. One Courte buildid this house of late dayes. Molynes. This Court was uncle to Molines, that now dwellith at Makeney. Molines hath not this lordship only, but a nother in Ox- fordshir not far from Dorchester, caullid Moungewelle,b and is 50. li. in value by yere, and hath fair woodes. The house of Molines habitation byfore the death of Court was yn Hamptonshir about an 8. miles from Saresbyri at a place caullid Sandhil, wher is a fair manor place. From Walingford to Sinodune about a mile and a half. This place is wonderful dikid about and stondith on a hille in Barkshir, hanging over the Tamise. It is yn by estimation half a mile. And withyn it hath beene sum toune, or, as the fo. 14. commune voice sayith, a castelle in the Britannes tyme, de- facid by lykelihod by the Danes. At this tyme it berith very plentifullye booth barley and whete, and numismata Romanorum be ther found yn plough- About this Sinodune beginnith the fruteful vale of White- Horse, and so strecchith by south west toward Farington quarters. This vale is not plentiful of woodde.* From Sinodune to Abbingdonc 6. miles. A little a this side the bridge over the Ise at Abbingdon is a confluence of 2. armes that brekith aboute the est ende of Abbingdon-Abbay out of the hole streame of the Ise,d and make 2. litle isles or mediamnes. And at this confluence self in the very mouth is a very fair bridge of 7. arches : and a very litle beneth this bridge booth the armes yoinid and renning in one botom goith ynto Ise. [* Leland left a long blank after this sentence.] Mackney. b Mongewell. c Abingdon. d Isis. PART II 121 The greath bridge at Abbingdon over Ise hath a 14. arches.* Berks. The toun of Abbingdon afore the abbay was buildid there was caullid Seukesham. The abbay was first begon at Bagley Wood in Barkshir a 2. miles more upper on the Ise then Abbingdon now is : but the foundations and the workes there prosperid not ; wher- apon it was translatid to Seukesham, and ther finishid most by the costes of King Cissa, that there after was buried ; but the very place and tumbe of his burial was never knowen syns the Danes defacid Abbingdon. I hard that ther was an holy heremite, kynne to King Cissa, fo. 15. that lyvid yn the woodes and marisches about Seukesham, and that the abbay for his sake and by his meanes was buildid there. Ethelwolde, Abbate of Abbingdon, and after Bisshop of Winchestre, yn King Edgares [days] did clerely renovate and augmentid this abbay, digging and caussing a gut to cum out of Isis by force to serve and purge thoffices of thabbay. The chirche and buildinges that he made ther were after taken doune and new made by Norman abbates in the first Norman kinges tymes. The est partes wherof yet be scene. The tower in the midle of the chirch, al the body of the chirch, and the towers at the west ende of it wher made by 4. abbates immediatelie preceding the last 4. abbates of Abbingdon. The latter 2. of the 4. abbates that buildid the west part of the chirch were thus namid : Aschendune and Sante. Sante was a doctor of divinite, and was imbassador at Rome bothe for King Edward the fourth and Henrie the vij. At the west end of the area wheryn the abbay chirch of Abbingdon stondith is a charnel chapelle, to the which was gyven the profile of a chapelle at Bayworth by Bagley- Wood. On the south side of the area is al the abbate and con- ventes lodging. [* Stow has the following marginal note : "John of S. Helenes, so cawlyd bycause he dwelt in S. Helin's paroche in Abyndon, was the first beginner and maker of this bridge of stone. Afore his tyme it was a ferry. The makynge of this bridge was a great hinderens to the towne of Walingford, whithar the trade was of Glostarshire. This John of S. Helin's lyvyd about the begynyng of H. the 6." See Part o (Lei. vii., fol. 14).] 122 LELAND'S ITINERARY Berks. In old tymes many of the villages about Abbingdon had but chapelles of ease, and Abbingdon Abbay was their mother chirch, and there they buried. fo. 16. There is at the west ende of thabbay withowt the gate a chirch dedicate to S. Nicolas, and buildid by one abbate Nicolas for the ease of the toun encreasing with people. Again this on the other side withoute thabbay gate is a chirch dedicate to S. John, and there is an hospital having 6. almose menne. The kinges be countid for founders of this hospitale. There is a paroch chirch of S. Helene at the south ende of the toun apon Isis as the ryver cummith from the abbay downeward. At this place was sumtyme a nunnery : and yn S. Ethel- woldes tyme that renewid thabbay of Abbingdon wer straunge thinges and tumbes found yn digging. There is now an hospital* of 6. men and 6. women at S. Helenes maintenid by a fraternite ther, as I hard. A very litle beneth S. Helenes cummith Och ryver thorough the vale of Whit-Horse into Isis. There is a mille almost at the mouth of this confluence caullid Ocke-mille, and nother above it. There is a right goodly crosse of stone with fair degres and imagerie in the market steede of Abbingdon. There is also a fair house with open pillars coverid with a rofe of leade for market folkes. The toun of Abbingdon stondith by clothing. The market is quik there. Remembre to speke with Mr. Bachelar in Abbingdon, and the prior of Abbingdon dwelling a mile from Abbingdon, for the book de Gestis abbatum de Abbingdune. fo. 17. From Abbingdon to a fair waren of conies longging to thabbay about a mile. Oxon. Thens a 4. miles to Chisilhampton Abridge. [* Stow has the following marginal note here : " John of S. Helin's gave 50. li. land the yer to the mayntenance of this hospitall and the bridge." See Part 9 (Lei. vii., fol. 14).] Chiselhampton. PART II 123 Thens to Haseley 3. miles. Oxfordshire. From Haseley to Oxford about a 7 miles. Robertas de Oilleio that cam into England with Wylliarn Conqueror had given to hym the baronyes of Oxford and Sainct Waleries. This Robert made the castelle of Oxford, and, as I con- ject, other made the waulles of Oxford or repairid them. This Robert made the chapelle of S. George in the cas- telle of Oxforde, and foundid a college of prebendaries there. This Robert dyid withowt issue, and wher he was buried it is not very certeinly knowen. This Robert had one John de Einerio that was exceding familiar with hym, and had beene in the warres as sworen brother onto hym, and had promised to be part taker of Robertes fortunes. Wherapon he enrichid hym with posses- fo. i8£. sions, and, as sum think, gave hym S. Waleries. Robert Oilley had a brother caullid Nigellus, of whom be no verye famose thinges written. Nigellus had a sunne caullid Robert that provid a very noble man. This Robert the 2. had a wife caullid Edith Forne, a wo- man of fame and highly estemid with King Henry the [first] by whose procuration Robert weddid her. This Robert began the priorie of blake chanons at Oseneya by Oxford emong the isles that Isis ryver ther makith. Sum write that this was the occasion of making of it. Edith usid to walk out [of] Oxford Castelle with her gentilwomen to solace and that often tymes, wher yn a certen place in a tre as often as she came a certen pies usid to gether to it, and ther to chattre, and as it wer to speke onto her. Edithe f0t ig> much marveling at this matier, and was sumtyme sore ferid as by a wonder. Wherapon she sent for one Radulph, a chanon of S. Frediswides, a man of a vertuus life and her confessor, asking hym counsel : to whom he answerid, after that he had scene the fascion of the pies chattering only at her cumming, that she should builde sum chirch or monasterie in that place. a Osney. i24 ICELAND'S ITINERARY Oxon. Then she entreatid her husband to build a priorie, and so he did, making Radulp the first prior of it. The cumming of Edith to Oseney and Radulph waiting on her, and the tre with the chattering pies be paintid in the waulle of tharch over Edith tumbe in Oseney priorie. There lyith an image of Edithe of stone in thabbite of a wowes, holding an hart in her right bond, on the north side of the high altare. Robert Oilley the 2., founder of Oseney priorie, was buried in thabbay of Eigneshama a 3. miles from Oxford. Robert Oilley the 2. had faire issue by Edith his wife, emong the which Henry was his heire. This Henry lyith buried yn Oseney chirch, in the veri midle of the presbyteri, under a flatte marble stone, wher- apon is a flourid cross* porturid. This Henry had Henry the 2. And from Henry the 2. were other discentes ; but in processe the landes of the Oilleys were disparkelid. Ther is at this tyme one of the Oilleis a man of a 140. In- land dwelling This Oilley hath to wife my Ladie Williams doughter of Ricote. He is now communely caullid Doilley of this title de Oilleio. fo. 20. Ela, Countes of Warwik, a woman of a very great riches and nobilite, lyith buried at the hedde of the tumbe of Henry Oilley, undre a very fair flat marble, in the habite of a woues, graven yn a coper plate. Ela gave many rich jewelles to Oseney, but no landes. Ela gave sum landes to Royleb abbay by Oseney. Ela gave riche giftes to thabbay of Reading. On the north side of the presbyteri of Oseney chirch is buried undre an arche John Saincte John a famose man in an high and large tumbe of marble. S. John's wife lyith under a flat marble by her husbandes tumbe. Beaufort a knight lyith in the quier at the hed of Countes Ela. [* Leland and Stow both have crossid, but it seems to be an error for cross.'] a Eynsham. b Rewley. PART II 125 This Bewfort and an abbate of Oseney buildid the body Oxon. of the chirch now standing at Oseney, and ther be porturid their images in the volt of it. There be very faire doble isles on eche side of the body of the chirch. There is buried at Oseney yn our Lady chapelle a noble man of the Placetes, in a faire tumbe with an image. One Thomas Kidlington, borne at Kidlington in Oxford- shir, abbate of Oseney, buildid many yeres sins the chapelle of our Lady on the north side of the presbyterie of Oseney chirch. There were in the beginning certen priors at Oseney : and then the rulers of the house were made abbates : at the which tyme the landes of Oseney were augmentid and parte- ly given with a certen peculiar jurisdiction spiritual yn Glo- cestreshir. One Mr. James Bayllie of Oxford hath a peace of a booke of the actes of the abbates of Oseney. From Oxford thorough the southgate and bridge of sun- fo. 21. drie arches over Isis, and along causey in ulter. ripa in Barkshir by a good quarter of a mile or more, and so up to Berks. Hinxey a hille, about a mile from Oxford. From this place the hilly grounde was meately wooddy for the space of a mile : and thens 10.* miles al by chaum- pain, and sum corne, but most pasture, to Farington, stand- ing in a stony ground in the decline of an hille. Sum caulle this toune Cheping-Faringtonb; but there is other none or very smaul market now at it. This tounelet hath but one paroch chirche that hath a crosse isle. In the chirch yard is a very fair chapelle of the Trinite made by on Cheyny, buried ther in a high tumbe of marble : and ther is a cantuarie endowed. Cheney Lord Warden of the 5. Fortes now geveth it. The personage is a 40. li. by yere longging to a prebende yn Saresbyri, that young Cavelcant a Florentine now hath. I asked for the castelle that the favorers of Matilde Em- [* Stow has 20 miles, the first figure is smudged in Leland's MS. ] Hincksey. b Faringdon. 126 LELAND'S ITINERARY Berks, peres erectid at this place, and King Stephan after pullid doune : but they could telle me naught of it. I lernid of certentye that a mile out of Farington, toward the right way [to] Highewortha toune v. miles from Faring- ton, wher is a good market for Barkshir on the Wensday, appereth a great diche, wher a fortresse, or rather a camp of warre, hath beene, as sum say, dikid by the Danes for a sure campe. From Farington onto S. John's-bridge of 3. arches of stone and a causey a 3. miles dim. al by low grownd, and subject to the overflowinges of Isis. As I rode over Isis I lernid that ulter. ripa was in Glo- cestreshir, and citerior in * Barkshir and Oxfordshir not far of. Glo'ster- I lernid that Northlech-broke, that cummith after to Est- shire. leche, enterith into Isis a litle byneth S. John's-bridg. This Northlech water cummith from north to south. Northlechb is a praty uplandisch toune viij. miles from S. John's-bridg by north. Estlechec is a 5. miles lower, both set ripa citer. as I cam. fo. 22. At the very ende of S. John's-bridge in ripa ulterior i on the right hond I saw a chapelle in a medow, and greate enclosures of stone waulles. Heere was in hominum memoria a priory of blake chanons of the patronage of the Duke of Clarance or York. When this priory was suppressid there were 3. cantuaries erectid in the chirch of Lechelade : and ther remaynid ontylle of late dayes one Undrewoode, decane of Wallingforde, founde meanes that 2. of these cantuaries should be at Wallingford- College, and the third to remaine at Lechelade. From S. John's-bridge to Lechelade d about half a mile, it is a praty olde village, and hath a pratie pyramis of stone, at the west ende of the chirch. From Lechelade to Fairford about a 4. miles al by low ground, in a maner in a levelle, most apt for grasse, but very barein of woodde. Fairford is a praty uplandisch toune, and much of it long- ith with the personage to Tewkesbyri-Abbay. [* Leland and Stow have andioi in, evidently a slip of the pen.] a Highworth. b Northleach. ° Eastleach. d Lechlade. PART II 127 There is a fair mansion place of the Tames hard by the Glo'ster- chirch yarde, buildid thoroughly by John Tame and Ed- shire, munde Tame. The bakside wherof goith to the very bridg of Fairford. Fairford never florishid afore the cumming of the Tames onto it. John Tame began the fair new chirch of Fairforde, and Edmund Tame finishid it. Both John and Edmund ly buried in a chapelle of the northside of Fairford quier. Epitaph: Joannis Tame. Orate pro animabus Joannis Tame armigeri 6° Alicia uxo- ris ejus. qui quidem Joannes obiit 8. die mensis Maij, a°. D. 1500, 6° an0, regni Regis Henrici 7. 16". Et prcedicta Alicia obiit 20. die mensis Decembris^ An0. D. 1471. Epitaph : Edmundi Tame. Hie jacet Edmundus Tame miles^ 6° Agnes, 6° Elizabeth uxores ejus. qui quidem Edmundis obiit primo die Octobr. a°. D. 1534. 6* a", regis Henr. 8. 26. Fairford water risith a 5. miles north north west from fo. 23. Fairford, and after rennith about a mile lower thorough Welleford a village, and about a mile lower as it were betwixt Welleford and S. John's-bridge goith into Isis. The streame of Isis lyith from S. John's-bridge thus upward : From S. John-bridge to Lechelad more then half a mile. From Lechelade to Eiton Castelleb in Whileshir, wher Wilts, great mines of a building in Wyleshir, as in ulteriori ripa^ remayne yet, a 2. miles upper on the Isis. From Eiton Castelle to Nunne-Eiton a mile, to Greke- lade,c or rather Crikelade, a 2. miles. Eiton the Lord Zouches castelle. Nunne-Eiton longgid to Godstow. Crekelade is on the farther ripe of Isis, and stondith in Wileshire. Loke here wher Braden water cumming out of Wyleshir dooth go ynto Isis. From Faireford to Pultun d aboute a 2. miles dim. Going Glouc. a Welford. b Castle Eaton. c Cricklade. d Poulton. 128 LELAND'S ITINERARY Glo'ster- out of Fairford I passid over the water, wher is a bridg of 4. shire. stone arches. Ther cummith a litle bek by Pulton, that after goit at a mille a litle above Dounamney village into Amney watei into the Isis.* Then cummith Amney-broke into Isis. Cowberle watei cummith into .... I notid a litle beyond Pulton village Pulton priorie, whei was a prior and 2. or 3. blake chanons with hym. I saw yn the waulles where the presbyterie was 3. or 4. arches, wher ther were tumbes of gentilmen : I think that there was byried sum of the Sainct-Maurs. And of surety on S. Maur founder of it was buried there. As I passid out of Pulton village I went over the bek of Pulton, rysing not far above. Pulton-bek about a mile beneth Pulton goith at a mille a litle above Dounamney a into Amney streame.* From Pulton toward Amney villag I passid over Amney water, and so to Amney village, leving it on the right hand. Amney brook risith a litle above Amney toune by north out of a rok : and goith a 3. miles of or more to Doune- amney, wher Syr Antony Hungreford hath a fair house of stone ripa ulter. Amney goith into Isis a mile beneth Dounamney again Nunne Eiton in Wilshir. fo. 24. From Pulton to Cirencestre a 4. miles. Cirencestre b stondith on Churne ryver. Churncestre callid in Latine Coriminum. Ther was afore the Conquest a fair and riche college of prebendaries in this toune ; but of what Saxon's foundation no man can telle. Henry the first made this college an abbay of chanons regulares, gyving them the landes of the prebendaries totally, and sum other thinges. Rumbaldus, chauncelar to King Edward the Confessor, was dene of this house, and buried in the body of the chirch, as it apperith by the epitaphy on his tumbe. [* This repetition occurs both in Leland and Stow.] a Down Ampney. b Cirencester, PART II 129 The est parte of the chirch of Cirencestre-Abbay shewith Glo'ster to be of a very old building. The west part from the tran- shire. septum is but new work to speke of. King Richard the first gave to Cirenceste the cortes and perquisites of 7. hundredes therabout yn Glocestreshir. The landes of Cirencestre-abbay litle augmentid sins the tyme of the fundation by Henry the first. There ly 2. noble men of S. Amandes buried withyn the presbyterie of Cirencestre-abbay chirch. And there is buried the hart of Sentia, wife to Richard King of Remains, and Erie of Cornwalle. Serlo first abbate of Cirencestre. Sg This Serlo made his brother prior of Bradene-stoke. Se Ther were xxviij. or xxix. abbates of Cirencestre after Serlo. EccLfit Abbas Mr. Blake the last abbate buildid 2. fulling milles at Corinienris. Cirencestre that cost a 700. markes of mony. They be wonderfully necessary, by cause the toun standith alle by clothing. There hath bene 3. paroche chirchis in Cirencestre, wherof S. Cecilia chirch is clene doun, it was of late but a chapelle. S. Laurence yet stondith, but as no paroch fo. 25. chirch. Ther be 2. poor almose women endowid with landes. Ther is now but one paroche chirch in al Cirencestre: but that is very fair. The body of the chirch is al new work, to the which Ruthal, Bisshop of Duresme, borne and brought up in Cirencestre, promisid much, but preventid with deth gave nothing. One Alice Aveling, aunt to Bisshop Ruthal by the mother side, gave an hundreth markes to the building of the right goodly porche of the paroch chirch. And Ruthalles mother contributid, and other, to the per- forment of it. Alexander Necham, a great clerk and abbate of Ciren- cestre, buried in the entring of the cloister of Wiccestre, entering out of the chirch into the cloyster. King Henry the first made the hospital of S. John at Cirencestre. Ciren- cestre toun hath but a bailife to govern there. Cirencestre is in Coteswolde. Cirencestre hath the most celebrate market in al that quarters on Monday. K 130 LELAND'S ITINERARY Glo'ster- The way lyith this from Cirencestre to London : shire. To Fairford vj. miles. To Farington viij. To Abbingdon . . . miles. To Dorchestre v. miles. To Henley To London Tetbyri* is vij. miles from Malmesbyri, and is a praty market toun. Tetbyri liyth a 2. miles on the lift hand of from Fosse as men ryde to Sodbyri. The hed of Isis in Coteswalde risith about a mile a this . side Tetbyri. The Fosse way goith oute at Cirencestre, and so streatchith by a manifest great creste to Sodbyri market b . . . . miles of, and so to Bristow. Cowberkelec lyith by north west a vj. miles from Ciren- cestre, and there ys the hedde of Cowberkeley-streame. Master Bridges hath a fair house at Cowberkele. This streame cummith a 3. miles lower thorough Ren- cumbed Park, and ther hath Sir Edmunde Tame a very fair house. fo. 26. From Cirencestre to Malmesbyri e viij. miles. Wilts. First I roode about a mile on Fosse^ then I turnid on the lifte hand, and cam al by champayne grounde, fruteful of corne and grasse, but very litle wood. I passid over a stone bridg, wher as Newton water, as I tooke it, rennith in the very botom by the town, and so enterid into the toune by theste gate. The toune of Malmesbyri stondith on the very toppe of a greate slaty rok, and ys wonderfully defendid by nature, for Newton water cummith a 2. miles from north to the toun : and Avon water cummith by weste of the toun from Lokingtonf village a 4. miles of, and meate aboute a bridg at south est part of the toun, and so goith Avon by south a while, and than turneth flat west toward Bristow. The conducte that cam to Malmesbyri Abbay was fette from Newton. * Tetbury. b Chipping Sodbury. c Cubberly. d Rendcomb. e Malmesbury. f Luckington. PART II 131 Newton water and Avon ren so nere togither in the botom Wiltshire, of the west suburbe at Malmesbyri, that there within a burbolt-shot the toun is peninsulatid. In the toun be 4. gates by the names of est, west, north, and south, minus al. The walles in many places stond ful up : but now very feble. Nature hath dikid the toun strongely. It was sum tyme a castelle of greate fame, wher yn the toun hath syns be buildid : for in the beginning of the Saxons reigne, as far as I can lerne, Malmesbyri was no toun. This castelle was namid of the Britons Cair-Bladun. The Saxons first caullid it Ingelburne. *ng Saxonice, And after of one Maildulphus a Scotte, that taught good letters there and after procurid an abbay ther to be made, it was Maidulphesbyri, i. Maildulphi curia. The king of the West-Saxons and a bisshop of Winchestre were founders of this abbay. Aldelmus was then after Maildulph abbate there, and after Bisshop of Shirburn. This S. Aldelme is patrone of this place. The toune hath a great privileg of a fair about the fest of Sainct Aldelme ; at the which tyme the toune kepith a band fo. 27. of harnesid men to se peace kept : and this \is] one of the bragges of the toun, and therby they be furnishid with harneys. Ther were in thabbay chirch yard 3. chirches : thabbay chirch a right magnificent thing, wher were 2. steples, one that had a mighttie high pyramisy and felle daungerusly in hominum memoria, and sins was not reedified : it stode in the midle of the transeptum of the chirch, and was a marke to al the countre about; the other yet standith, a greate square toure, at the west ende of the chirch. The tounes men a late bought this chirch of the king, and hath made it their paroche chirch. The body of the olde paroch chirch, standing in the west end of the chirch yarde, is clene taken doun. The est ende is convertid in aulam civicam. The fair square tour in the west ende is kept for a dwell- ing house. Ther was a litle chirch joining to the south side of the transeptum of thabby chirch, wher sum say Joannes Scottus 132 LELAND'S ITINERARY Wiltshire, the great clerk was slayne about the tyme of Alfrede king of West-Saxons of his own disciples, thrusting and stikking * hym with their table pointelles. Wevers hath now lomes in this litle chirch, but it stondith and is a very old pece of work. Ther was an image set up yn thabbay chirch yn honor of this John Scotte. This is John Scotte that translatid Dionysius out of Greke into Latine. Malmesbyri hath a good quik market kept every Saturday. There is a right fair and costely peace of worke in the market place made al of stone and curiusly voultid for poore market folkes to stande dry when rayne cummith. Ther be 8. great pillers and 8. open arches : and the work is 8. square : one great piller in the midle berith up the voulte. The men of the toun made this peace of work in hominum memoria. The hole logginges of thabbay be now longging to one Stumpe, an exceding riche clothiar that boute them of the king. This Stumpes sunne hath maried Sir Edward Baynton's doughter. fo. 28. This Stumpe was the chef causer and contributer to have thabbay chirch made a paroch chirch. At this present tyme every corner of the vaste houses of office that belongid to thabbay be fulle of lumbes to weve clooth yn, and this Stumpe entendith to make a stret or 2. for clothier in the bak vacant ground of the abbay that is withyn the toune waulles. There be made now every yere in the toune a 3000. clothes. Sum hold opinion that ther was sum tyme a nunery wher the heremitage now stondith in the dike of the toune at the west ende of the old paroche chirch. Sum say there that there was another nunnery toward the park a litle without the toun longging to thabbate in the way to Chippenham. [* Leland wrote this word stinkking, but the stroke over the first i = n was probably a mistake ; he must have meant sticking (not strik- ing> as Stow and Hearne).] PART II 133 And I have redde that there was a nunnery wher now is a Wiltshire, poore hospitale about the south bridge without the toun in the way to Chippenham. Going out of Malmesbyri by the south gate I turnid on the lifte hond and so passid over Avon by a fair bridg of stone having 3. arches. And then conscending an hillet even therby left a chapelle or paroch chirch hard on the lift hand, and then leaving the park and the late abbates maner place on the lift hond, I cam to a village about a mile of caullid Fosse, wher was a bridge and a good streame renning undre it. Thens to Chippenham a vj. miles. Riding betwixt Malmesbyri and Chippenham al the ground on that side of the ryver was chaumpain, fruteful of corne and grasse, but litle wood. Thus rydyng I lefte Avon streame aboute a 2. miles on the lifte hand. I markid 2. places betwene Malmesbyri and Chippenham notable. Draicote,a wher Sir Henrye Long hath a fair manor place, and a park about a mile from Avon streame. Draicot is a 5. miles from Malmesbyri, and a 2. miles from Chippenham. On the other side of the Avon river I sawe Bradenestoke fo. 29. priory mines on the toppe of an hille a mile and an half from Avon ryver. Bradenestoke b is about a 4. miles from Malmesbyri. Al the quarters of the foreste of Braden be welle wooddid even along from Malmesbyri to Chippenham ward. One told me that ther was no notable bridge on Avon be- twixt Malmesbyri and Chippenham. I passid over 2. bekkes betwixt Malmesbyri and Chippenham. Mr. Pye dwellith at a litle from Chippenham, but in Chippenham paroche. I left Chippenham a mile on the lifte hand, and so went to Alington0 village about a mile of, and thens 3. miles to Cosham,d a good uplandisch toun, wher be ruines of an old maner place : and therby a park wont to be yn dowage to the quenes of Englande. Mr. Baynton yn Quene Annes dayes pullid doun by licens a peace of this house sumwhat to help his buildinges at Bromeham. a Draycot. b Bradenstoke. c Allington. d Corsham. i34 LELAND'S ITINERARY Wiltshire. Old Mr. Bonehome told me that Coseham apperteinid to the erldom of Cornwalle, and that Cosham was a mansion place longging to it wher sumtyme they lay. Al the menne of this townelet were bond : so that apon a tyme one of the erles of Cornewalle hering them secretely to lament their state manumitted them for mony, and gave them the lordship of Cosham in copie hold to pay a chief rente. From Coseham to Haselbyria about a 2. miles. I left on the lift hand on the toppe of a litle hille an here- mitage withyn a litle as I tumid doun to Hasilbyri. The manor place of Haselbyry stondith in a litle vale, and was a thing of a simple building afore that old Mr. Boneham father did build there. The Bonehomes afore that tyme dwellid by Lacokb upon Avon. There is a feld by Lacok wher men find much Romaine mony, it is caulid silver-feeld. From Haselbyri to Munkton-Farley a mile dim. wher by the village ther was a priorie stonding on a litle hille, sum- tyme having blak monkes, a prior, and a convent of 1 2. Monketon-Farleyc emong other thynges was a late gyven to therle of Hertford. fo. 30. From Haselbyri to Monkton the countre beginnith to wax woddy : and so forth lyke to Bradefordd about a 2. miles from Munketun-Farley : and also to part into hilles and valeys. Sir Henry* Long hath a litle maner about a mile from Munketon-Farley at Wrexley. The original setting up of the house of the Longes cam, as I lernid of Mr. Bonehom, by this meanes : One Long Thomas a stoute felaw was sette up by one of the old Lordes Hungrefordes. And after by cause this Thomas was caullid Long Thomas, Long after was usurpid for the name of the family. This Long Thomas master had sum lande by Hungre- fordes procuration. Then succedid hym Robert and Henry. [* Leland first wrote Mr. Long, then Sir Henry above it.] a Hazlebury. b Laycock. c Monkton Farleigh. d Bradford. PART II 135 Then cam one Thomas Long descending of younger Wiltshire, brother, and could skille of the law, and had the inheritances of the aforesaid Longes. Syr Henry and Sir Richard Long were sunnes to this Thomas. The toune self of Bradeford stondith on the dining of a slaty rokke, and hath a meetely good market ons a weeke. The toune is made al of stone and standith, as I cam to it, on the hither ripe of Avon. Ther is a chapelle on the highest place of the toune as I enterid. The fair larg paroche chirch standith bynethe the bridge on Avon ripe. The vicarage is at the west ende of the chirch. The personage is L. poundes by the yere, and was impro- priate to Shaftesbyri Abbay. Haulle dwellith in a pratie stone house at the este ende of the este ende of the toune in dextra ripa Avonce. Haule, alias de la Sale, a man of an 100. li. landes by the yere. There is a very fair house of the building of one Horton a riche clothier at the north est part by the chirch. This Horton's wife yet lyvith. This Horton buildid a goodly large chirch house ex lapide quadrato at the est end of the chirch yard without it. This Horton made divers fair houses of stone in Through- bridge toun. One Lucas a clothier now duellith in Horton's house in Bradeford. Horton left no childern. Al the toune of Bradeford stondith by clooth making. Bradeford bridge hath 9. fair arches of stone. Bath is a 5. miles lower apon Avon than Bradeford. Somerset. *These be the names of the notable stone bridges apon fo. 31. Avon betwixt Malmesbyri and Bradeford. Malmesbyri bridge. Christine Malefordea bridge about a 5. miles lower. Caiswayb bridge aboute a 2. miles lower. Chippenham a right fair bridge about a rnile lower. Chip- [* Leland's asterisk to mark off this list of the bridges over Avon. Stow removed it to the end of folio 34 ; i.e., p. 139, after 1. 31.] Christian Malford. b Kellaways. 136 LELAND'S ITINERARY Wiltshire, penham toun is on the farther ripe toward London, and dimming from London men cum to it not passing over the bridge. Rhe bridge* about a mile and an half lower. About a 4. miles lower is Stavertun bridge, wher is the confluence of Thrugh-bridge water6 with Avon. Bradeford bridge a 2. miles lower. Bath bridge of v. fair arches a v. miles lower. Bristow8 bridge a 10. miles lower. A 2. miles above Bristow was a commune trajectus by bote, wher was a chapelle of S. Anne on the same side of Avon that Bath stondith on, and heere was great pilgrimage to S. Anne. There is a litle streate over Bradeford bridge, and at the ende of that is an hospitale of the kinges of Englandes fundation. As I turnid up at this streat end toward Through-bridg ther was a quarre of fair stone on the right hand in a felde. From Bradeford to Thorough-bridge4 about a 2. miles by good corne, pasture and wood. I enterid into the toune by a stone bridge of a 3. arches. The toune standith on a rokky hillet, and is very welle buildid of stone, and florishith by drapery. Of later tymes one James Terumber, a very rich clothier, buildid a notable fair house in this toune, and gave it at his deth with other landes to the finding of 2. cantuarie prestes yn Through-bridg chirch. This Terumber made also a litle almose house by Through- bridge chirch, and yn it be a 6. poore folkes having a 3. pence a peace by the week toward their finding. Horton, a clothiar of Bradeforde, buildid of late dayes dyvers fair houses in this toun. Old Bayllie buildid also of late yn this toun, he was a rich fa- 32- clothiar. Bailies sun now drapeth yn the toun, and also a 2. miles out of it at a place iyn the way to Farley-castel. One Alexandre is now a great clothier in the toun. The chirch of Through-bridge is lightsum and fair. One Molines is parson ther, a man welle lernid. ft Reybridge. b R. Bliss. c Bristol. d Trowbridge. PART II 137 The castelle stoode on the south side of the toune, it is Wiltshire, now clene doun. There was in it a 7. gret toures, wherof peaces of 2. yet stande. The river rennith hard by the castelle. This brooke risith about a mile and an half from Wer- minster bysouthest, and so cummithto Through-bridge toune, and thens about a mile to Saverton, an hamlet longing to Through-bridg, and there metith with Avon river : and at this confluence there is a stone bridg over Avon. Saverton a stondith on the same side of the brooke that Staverton Trough-bridge dothe. There is a fair standing place for market men to stond yn, in the hart of the toune, and this is made viij. square, and a piller in the midle, as there is one made in Malmesbyri far fairer then this. The erles of Sarum were lordes of Through-bridg : then the Duke of Lancaster, now therle of Hertford. From Thorough-bridg to Castelle- Far ley b about a 3. miles by good corne, pasture, and nere Farley self plenty of wood. Or I cam to the castelle I passid over Frome water, passing by there yn a rokky valey and botom, where the water brekith into armelettes and makith islettes, but sone meting agayn with the principale streame, wherby there be in the causey diverse smaul bridges. This water rennith hard under the botom of the castelle, and there driveth a mylle. The castelle is sette on a rokky hille. There be diverse praty towrres in the utter warde of the castelle. And in this utter warde ys an auncient chapelle, and a new chapelle annexid onto it. Under the arch of this chapelle lyith, but sumwhat more to the old chapelle warde, one of the Hungerfordes with his wife, having these epitaphies apon 2. schochins of plate of brasse : Hicjacet Thomas Hungerford, chevallier, dominus de Farley, \Veleiue a Welew, 6° Heitesbyri : qui obiit 3. die Decembris a°. D. 1398, lordship join- cujus anim<z propitietur Deus, amen. inSto Farley. Hie jacet Domina Joanna Uxor ejttsdem Thomcz Hunger- fo ford, filia Domini Edmundi Husee Militis : qua obiit prima die mensis Martii a". D. 1412. a Staverton. b Farleigh-Hungerford. 138 LELAND'S ITINERARY Somerset- These thinges that heere folow were written shire. in a table in the chapelle : Thomas Hungreford knight and Dame Joanna his wife. Gualterus Syr Gualter Hungreford Lord Hungreford Knight of the filius Thorna Garter and High Treasorer of Englande. et Joanna. Catarine heire to Peverel, and wife to Gualter. Robertus nhus ~ -, , ' , Gualteriiet Syr Robert Lord Hungreford. Catering. Margaret heire to Botreaux, wife to Robert Erie Hungreford. Robertus come Eleanor Molynes heire to Molines and wife to Robert. Leyland. I hard say that this erl and his wife were buried in the chirch of Sarum, The line of the late Lord Hungreford. Gualter Hungreford knight. Joanna wife to Gualter. Edward sun to Walter. Jane his wife. Syr Gualter Lord Hungerford. Susan doughter to Daners* of Daundesey by Bradstok : Alice the Lorde Sannes doughter : Elizabeth the Lorde Husee's doughter : wives to Gualter late lord Hungerford. Gualter and Edward sunnes to Gualter late Lord Hungre- ford. Ther longgid 2. chauntre prestes to this chapelle : and they had a praty mansion at the very est end of it. The gate house of the inner court of the castelle is fair, and ther be the armes of the Hungrefordes richely made.'yn stone. The haule and 3. chambers withyn the secund courte be stately. There is a commune saying that one of the Hungrefordes buildid this part of the castelle by the praye of the Duke of Orleaunce whom he had taken prisoner. Farley standith yn Somersetshir. Frome ryver there partith, and so doune to the mouth, Wileshir from Somersetshir. The mouth of it where it goith ynto Avon is about a mile and an half lower then Farley, and by estimation Bradeford is a 2. good miles upper on Avon. [* Danvers ; Burton (a).] PART II 139 There is a park by Farley castelle. Somerset- There is also a litle above the castelle a village. shire. Frome water risith at Philippes-Northtouna a pratie market toun, is about a mile fo. 34. from Farley castelle, and standith in Somerset. This toune takith the name of the dedication of the chirch thereyn that is to Philip and Jacob. There is a faire at this toun on the fest of Philip and Jacob.* From Farley I ridde a mile of by woddy ground to a graung great and welle buildid, that longid to Henton-priorie of Chartusians. This priory stondith not far of from this graunge on the brow of an hille abouth a quarter of a mile from the farther ripe of Frome, and not far from this place Frome goith ynto Avon. I rodde by the space of a mile or more by woddes and mountaine grounde to a place, where I saw a rude stone waulle hard on the right hond by a great lenghte as it had beene a park waulle. One sins told me that Hentonb priory first stode there, if it be so it is the lordship of Hethorpe that was gyven to them for their first habitation. And about a mile farther I cam to a village,6 and passid over a ston bridge where ranne a litle broke there they caullid Mitford-water. This brooke risith in the rootes of Mendip-hilles a 7. miles or